to buy or not to buy (996 sat for 5 years...)

I'm looking at a 2003 996 C2 that I really really like. It has 38,000 miles on it. I can verify all service records up to 2007. After that, nothing shows under the VIN. The owner says that they really just never drove the car when they had it. Based on the records, the current owner put about 10k miles on it in 5 years. They did replace the rear tires a 1,000 miles ago and they say that they had the oil changed a "while back" but can offer no verification. The car is about $8k below the kbb and it has all the goodies that I really want (white gauges, PSE, PSM, silver bits in the interior, exterior color is blue which I like and the wheels are in good shape). Other cars in the price range typically hit closer to 65-70k miles and do not offer the PSE. A PPI is an absolute must. I had already asked the question about the IMS, but have come to terms with that possibility. I've had a vette in the past and it did not respond well at all to sitting more than 2-3 weeks. Seals were a constant PITA on that car. I know a Porsche is not a vette, but do you guys think this is probably one best passed up? Jason btw, yes, this is the same car I asked in the earlier topic about driving it 14 hours home. The seller is just slow to get me answers to my questions.

For me, that would be a tough call. I think I would rather buy one with higher mileage rather than low. I've seen too many issues with vehicles/engines/etc setting up for long periods of time. You could [U]quickly[U] spend that "savings" of $8K.

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I'd give the car a miss. But if you want arrange for a 15 mile test ride then a 15 mile test drive and see how the car runs, behaves. Be sure you test everything after. It is just a 9+ year old used car. If you still like the car, have it PPI'd. This is done after 30 miles of running the engine, driving the car, to give any seals a chance to show any leak sign. Sincerely, Macster.

Macster summed it up. Cars are machines. Machines like to run to maintain lubrication on important surfaces and seals. Personally, there's no way I'd consider a car that had sat for 5 years unless it was a classic that I planned to restore...which a 996 is not (yet).

Yeah... I think I would pass on that. The one thing these cars need is regular use. It is also a good bet with a car used that little that it has not been driven at high rpms much. Another bad omen.

Where was the car stored? In a garage? I would bring up these concerns to the seller (who obviously just wants to get rid of it and deems anything to do with the car (even responding to buyers and going on test rides) an annoyance... Try to get the car for a lower price. I am sure that he will say "no" at first, but if you call him back a few weeks later and tell him that you are about to buy another car but you wanted to give his car one last shot, he will probably let it go just to wash his hands of it. Just make sure that when you make the deal, the sale is pending a PPI

That car is going to be quite a risk. When I first started looking for my car (in 2009), I came across an 99 arena red car with beige interior. It was so basic but I really did like it. The things that had me running in the other direction were that the 28K miles on the car were put on by the first owner in the first 2 years of the cars life. The current owners barely drove it at all. They put "new" tires on......5 years ago! Brand new Michelins with flat spots. so sad. If you can get an incredible deal, and I do mean incredible, it might be worth it after a resonable PPI outcome.

Car has been stored in a garage. He seems to drive it, just not very often. They have a son that appears to be about 18 years old (read what you want to there). The nearest dealer is 100mi away. I'm thinking that if I can get the guy to drive the car there to get the PPI done, that that should expose a lot of the potential issues. What I'll likely do is come up with a list of stuff that's potentially in need of repair (clutch/brakes/fluids etc) take the estimated cost of those repairs off of the asking price and see what he says. There's definitely a price there that I could agree to in order to take the car off the guy, but, I'm thinking it needs to be more in the $22k range rather than the $28k range. At least that's what my gut is saying. If I get it for $22k, I'd get the brakes done, AF flushed, oil changed, clutch replaced, LN Bearing installed, RMS updated, diff fluid changed, filters changed, etc etc. I'd then probably trust the car pretty good from that point on, replacing the random things here and there with my planned maintenance budget (planning on $5k for first year dropping after that hopefully). Thanks for everybody's advice. Of course if this happens, I'll be sure and post pics. Jason

I put my car away for the winter season one year and left it for 2+ (nearly 3) years. I had is stored in a dry unheated space. I put it back on the road a year ago last spring. it ran like a top last year. I put it up last November and just took it out yesterday. It has 125k (2000 C4 Tip cab) on it and runs like a dream. I would go with the "drive it to the dealer and have a ppi done, and we will talk" approach. I think all the issues (if there are any) will shake out on the drive down. These are incredibly well built and designed cars. and the IMS "issue" is complete scare monger bull****.

I faced the same situation when I bought my car. it also had about 38k on it when I got it in Jan of this year. Carfax indicated that the car had only had about 3000 miles put on it in the last 6 years. My car was owned by someone in the entertainment industry who had a lot of cars, apparently at different locations and this one was somewhere where he didn't spend a lot of time. I figured it would need an RMS/AOS/IMSB and built that into my budget. After I got it, I had the oil changed, and then did the RMS/IMSB (I know - should have done the AOS while it was apart). I am enjoying the car and have put almost 5K miles on it since the oil change - getting ready for another one soon. Car has had no problems other than those addressed above and I am glad to have it. Ted

Not sure I understand why you want to replace the clutch, brakes, and IMSB. Wouldn't you first get the PPI done to see what items are highlighted for attention before making those decisions?

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The car has not sat unused for 5 years, then, it has just been a garage queen. A 100 mile drive from the seller's house to the dealer for a PPI is ok. That 100 mile gives any problems time to manifest but I think you still need to experience the car 1st as a passenger then as a driver before you go to the trouble of having the PPI done. Thus I think if you can you should visit the car and ride it, drive it as I touched upon in an earlier post. Only if you like the car, can find no reason to reject it, then a PPI is called for. But you need to be sure as you can be you can swing a deal. The seller will probably want some assurance from you that after he goes to the trouble of demoing the car to you, then driving the 100 miles to the dealer for a PPI and arranging to get home somehow if you buy the car immediately after the PPI, that you're not going to use this as an opportunity to try to low ball him on the price. And if you offer a price based on adjusted for the work you are talking about, unless the seller is very naive, he's going to think that is just what you are doing. So you probably should consider broaching this subject, the work/repairs you mentioned above, and the price adjustment before the 100 mile drive, even before the test ride/drive. You can reasonably expect a price adjustment to be made for say the brake fluid flush/bleed (assuming and I think this is safe to assume it hasn't been done in 2 or more years) along with other services (oil/filter) and tires (if they're beyond their use by date (6+ years old). I'd budget for an alignment and a coolant drain/refill too. But absent any sign the clutch, brakes, etc. need replacing and barring any recommendation from the PPI any or all of these need doing I think the seller is going to balk. And rightly so. But you can submit/offer any deal you want. If the seller accepts... Sincerely, Macster.

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Plus the fact... Theres no guarantee that this seller is not reading every word of the 996 forum and is going to stick to his guns no matter what. After all that car is a very low milage car no matter when the miles went onto it or for how long it has been standing. If you want the car that bad, you had better move fast or that car is sold.

You might consider buying this from a renlist member PHILOO 2003 C2 41000K $29000 sharp looking job. Thats if it is closer to you than the one you are thinking about. https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...ack-ready.html

The aging process doesn't stop when a car is parked, however it does slow down dramatically, particularly when a car is garaged. On the other hand driving frequently may be beneficial to certain parts of a car, particularly motor seals and apparently the IMS bearing, it speeds up the aging process on most other parts of the car. I still believe low miles is a huge plus, if the advice of other members here is followed, including verification of the history of the car and PPI, and of course if the price is right.

The car wasn't stored for 5 years, it was driven 2k miles a year for 5 years. I would ask the owner how he drove it. If he drove it for a good long 50 mile+ ride a few times a month, I wouldn't have a problem. If he took it out for a 10 minute ride to and from Starbucks on Sunday and then put it away, I would be concerned.

So the seller freaked out for Lord-knows-what-reason and decided to not sell the car. I've sent another email with a little prodding on it as I'm kind of pissed that I've been going back and fourth with this seller for the better part of the last two weeks trying to get information. Just today they made the VIN available to me. If the person does not respond tomorrow in a nice way, I'm going to post our email exchanges and a link to the car on here as a "buyer-beware" to those that give a crap. This search is beginning to get exhausting (been looking <seriously> since early FEB... not long, I know. Just getting "itchy") btw, thanks for showing PHILOO's car. I'll give that a good look tonight. I really want the PSE, but, beggars can't be choosers and I'd prefer a "known" car over an unknown one.

Maybe the guy was never an enthusiast and wasn't ready for the **** probe he felt he was getting. Im not saying you are wrong but let it go. It's obviously not the car for you. This is not the Porsche you are looking for.

You bring up such a great point. My friends think I'm being kind of a dick wanting to get a PPI on one of these cars. They've never heard of such a thing. I guess I thought that was standard practice. You're right, my best bet is probably to buy from the forums....

I think a PPI is standard practice on this type of car. Unless you bye from a p-car dealer. Most p-car dealers will not sell car they think have a problem they send them to auction.

The kind of $$$$$$$ these cars can cost to make something right, one would be CRAZY to purchase one with out a full blown poke and cough. Only Noobs do something as stupid as purchase a Porsche with out a PPI

Send Philooo an email. Ive seen his car in person. He has taken good care his carrera. Some tasty carbon bits inside as well.

I definitely think you are doing the right things and asking the good questions. I just started to think what it might seem like to somebody who doesn't think like we do and also that maybe the cars history is going to bug you too much going forward. Either way best of luck in the continued search! To me it is a big part of the fun of any major purchase.

Well, they cancelled the sale. No big deal. Slightly bummed as it seemed like "the one." I decided not to post the email exchanges. The last response from the seller was not very nice. I did email Phil. Wish that car had the PSE and PSM. He's a little on the fence about selling it. I can't say that I blame him from the looks of it. It's a pretty hot ride. Anyway, my search continues. If any of you guys see a unicorn out there with an unheard of price.... ; )

PSE...aw, heck, add your own exhaust. PSM... it's called your right foot. Are we not MEN?!

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His car has the fister mod which is pretty close to PSE sound. Also, dont get hung up on PSM. I intentionally turn PSM off when I track my car. It does spooky things when you are pushing the car to it's limits. It taps the brakes for you in a 100 mph sweepers... no bueno. I prefer to be in total control of the car not the other way around. Good luck on your search.

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What could be so expensive to make the car right? Its just like any other car, except it's the most reliable car in the world. If you can save couple thousand dollars by not having PPI its a risk worth taking any day for me. By PPI i mean taking the car to a shop where a mechanic will look at it. Of course you need to test drive the car for at least 20 min at different condtions and speeds, if you have a jack, jack it up and get under the car, check for RMS leakis etc, and other leaks. that might be serious. Many of them are not. 99% of faults should come out in a test drive, if you know what you are looking for. But after few test drives you will know what sounds right and what doesn't. If the test drive does not feel right walk away.

When you say 'sat', it sounds like the car has been driven at intervals, just fairly infrequently or for low-mileage trips. If the PPI is performed by a competent mech, who knows the history (and therefore what to take a closer look at), I don't see any reason to totally dismiss it, especially if the price is right.