B & M ssk $199

Some of you were looking for the ssk at this price. There are a bunch on Ebay now!

I was looking at getting a SSK but have never driven a car with one. As I have a 40th Anniversary 996 now, how noticeable or significant an improvement in the day to day driving experience will this provide? I don't take it on the track, but mainly due city / freeway and canyon driving. Any insight on how this improves and affects the porsche driving experience would be appreciated. rio

The SSK gives the car a 'sports car' feel. It does feel 'notchier,' though, and doesn't provide any performance advantage IMHO. But I'd do it again in a minute to get rid of the gargantuan stock throw and to have the shift **** at a more reasonable height..

I bet you'll love it. I am so glad I did it. Easy to install in about an hour and a half and it feels great. It does feel notchie a little. Kind of like the shifter just notching into gear. A great upgrade

Definitely do it. It make the car feel so much tighter.

I highly recommend it with the following caveat: if you live in a cold winter climate (like I do), be prepared for a rather notchy shift into first when the transmission is cold. Once it warms up, it works like a charm. The install is a snap (especially when you use the non B&M method and don't disconnect the cables). I definitely don't miss the old shifter.

the "non-B&M" method?

The porsche method is to simply snap on/off the shift cables at the tower itself, not messing with readjusting/thread counting etc. Very easy to do.

If I am not mistaken, that's all B&M has you do as well, correct?

Yes LV, the B&M method also leaves the cables intact. This must be a change b/c people are always talking about counting threads and taping the cables. Was not in the instructions on my shifter. It was a snap. I do recommend the alum. linkage though..

The alum linkage? Does it come with the kit? I should get mine later this week and plan on doing the install next week.

No it is a separate purchase for about $129 at suncoast. It replaces those nasty plastic pieces. You don't have to do it but I guess the plastic can fail eventually and leave you stranded

When I had my BM kit, it had you remove the cables and count threads, etc. The alum ends are really not necessary, I just keep a spare stock end (15$). I believe the GT3 cup cars have the plastic factory links. If you put those on you will have to hassle with the cables/adj etc. To each his own.

Putting on the alum ones you have to count threads, etc.?

Yes b/c you are changing the ends of the cables

But not the plastic, correct?

correct.

Thanks!

I just purchased one -- looking forward to it after the strong recommendations.

You're gonna love it. If you have any install questions, give me a shout. I'm local. Tom

so this is a do it in your driveway kind of job? i remember looking at pic's on a thread here, it didn't look as easy as you guys are making it sound?

Cpa, Yes it is....best Mod for the $$$ so far in my car. It is not hard... The plus is you get to enjoy it everday and ever shift you drive the car....

Very easy, takes about 1 hour.

Have noticed notchiness (doubt that's a word!) with the stock shifter for the first couple of shifts into 1st and 2nd when cold. Is the short shifter worse or about the same? Sounds like this should be my next mod regardless. Guys at work comment about the size of my shifter all the time.

It will be more notchier. (definitely not a word) But still a great mod!

Definitely a good deal worse when the outside temperature is near freezing--but only into first gear (in my case), and gets better as soon as the transmission warms up.

Has anyone counted threads (and, if so, would they care to share their settings)? I didn't really read instructions and unhooked the shifter cable and put it back by "feel", but I'm thinking the settings might be off, because I have a really hard time getting it into first some days. I have a '99 C2

I don't really have a prblem with the stock throw, in fact kinda like the elbow motion, but now you guys are making me want the short shifter. I've looked at this off and on in the past, and the "notchiness" remarks make me kinda back off. The other thing that intimidates me is removing the center console to get at the shifting mechanism. How do you do that?

Palting, it's a peice of cake, just follow the BM intructions. Don't confuse notchiness with firmness, which is what you will have with the ssk. I currently have the porsche ssk, works well, no 'notchiness'.

Let me be the lone dissenter. I never like the B&M ss. (Had it on my last 911) Too notchy, and had a "cheap" feel to it. Moving from one gear to another was shorter-- for sure-- but it was much more "violent". Never had that smooth-as-silk feel that the OEM shifter had. The Porsche OEM ss, othe other hand, may be terrific, I've never tried it. (But I've heard that the B&M and Porsche OEM is the same design.)

They are identicle, except the p unit has the plastic/teflon bushings instead of steel(bm), probably accounts for the notchy sensation. I have had both in my car, I opted for the p unit out of warranty concerns, and I got a sweet deal on the pssk.

So my B&M SSK came yesterday and have been reading the instructions as well as searching the forums for installation tips to plan the install today. Try as I might, the only instructions I can find for in-car kit are the ones that B&M ships with the kit - and those involve taking apart the entire center console and fiddling with all of the shift cables. On a few SSK posts, I've read about an installation method that is easier and does not involve marking or taping cables. Can someone please post the best link or point me to where the easiest/best DIY installation instructions are for the the in-car B&M short shift kit? Thanks, Rio

I ordered the Porsche SSK from brandywine earlier this week for $350. IMHO this is a cheap price delta to preserve the warranty. I'll post results. I also ordered the adjusting jig because I think the alignment is slightly off.

Just follow those instructions. when it comes to disconnecting cables, all you do is pull the shifter connectors that are plastic towards the front of the car and you can disconnect the cables without changing any adjustments...It really is easy

What mundman said. It will be obvious when you look at it. I had the same concerns that you have before I started but once I opened it up it was very obvious.....Good Luck

Snap on / off at the shift tower, very easy. The console disassy is easy. I also did the porsche ssk, just as easy.

Can someone point me to instructions on how to remove the console? Will the Porsche SSK come with instructions? Thanks!

You can download the console removal instructions from the B&M website ( http://www.bmracing.com/media/products/pdf/67.pdf ). BTW, it looks like B&M has updated their short shifter instructions. It's like the Porsche TSB now -- no more counting threads.

You can download bm instr. The p units come two ways. First, the retrofit kit, just like the bm, only black, shifter/metal bushings, unassembled in a tequipment box. The second version that you see is the one meant for assembly line installs, the black p unit mounted in the plastic housing with the same plastic bushings as the stock shifter, all in an unmarked plastic bag. The former are the units porsche sold thru tequipment, come with crappy instructions. The latter were not initially meant for distribution post market, rather on the line option installs. Depends on where you get the p unit, I bought mine from Braman porsche, came in the bag.

I am halfway through my install and realized that my socket set is not METRIC .. my 10mm bolts holding the OEM shift assembly will not come off.. Off to Sears in the morning (in my wifes car) to get the right tools.

The right tool make the job alot easier!

Not to be a wise a** but doesn't the install instructions tell you specifically what tools will be needed? I always lay out my tools before I start so I can make a trip to Lowe's a priori.

Yes, i read the instructions beforehand. I also thought my 3/16" socket would fit a 10MM bolt (but I was wrong.)

D-oh! That is the reason I have two sets of sockets (metric and standard). The PITA for me is that I have them all together in the same tool box dedicated to sockets and finding the right one takes as long as the project I am working on. Guess it's time to go organize the sockets.

Dell, You can buy a socket stalk that holds sockets in order. Buy one for metric and one for SAE

Thanks Jeff, that is my next pickup at the hardware store. I gotta get my tools in order!

You need a 20 and 30 torx as well.

After working on my cars for the past 9 years(all foreign) the whole world is METRIC--only your father's crappy-*** Buick is SAE and even then who knows prolly Metric as well--ITs a pain but hey thats half the fun Mike

I hear you. Got it all installed yesterday and went for a quick test drive. Overall I love it - the throws are MUCH shorter than the stock shifter, more than I thought they would be. Some of the gears (Reverse mainly) were stiff (and I put a lot of grease on that pivot ball) but I think it will open up once I drive it more. Thanks for the support to everyone on this board - rio