engine miss CEL flashes. no codes NE GEORGIA

hello, im wondering if anyone knows a shop in NE Georgia 9preferably dahlonega/cleveland area, that has a scanner that "might" find a code that will not show up with A-zone stuff, I posted this elsewhere as well I have been to two different places trying to get a code after this happens car runs fine, all of a sudden engine light will flash 3 times fast, engine starts missing, car quit once, but both times it has happened I was able to get into a parts place once and a shop once, they put scanner on, no nodes, but by that time car stopped missing and light was off do I need a special scanner to see it there is a held code? one scanner was at a autozone, the other scanner was a OTC scanner car is a 2000 996 non Turbo, 2 wheel drive, manual trans thanks

Quotes source post: 10654427

You might get what you want with a scanner that can read active, pending, and permanent codes. Active are associated with a CEL. Pending are codes that well, are pending. Permanent codes are those that have been cleared but can only be erased by the DME testing for the triggering errors and finding no errors a number of times. IOWs, these can only be erased by the DME after a while. There is the possibility Porsche specific errors are logged in which case you'll need to take the car to a dealer or indy shop that has a Porsche diagnostics computer which can be used to pull/read any Porsche specific/proprietary codes from the DME. The odds on this are high, is my opinion. The flashing CEL is misfires, rich misfires. They went away and the CEL stopped flashing. How are the plugs and coils? Been driving in the rain? Did you just wash the car? Fill up at a new and out of the way gas station?

Quotes source post: 10654606

not sure about plugs or coils, the car had the 60k done before we bought it, it has I think 72 on it now, car did not just get washed, and it has not rained hard in the last couple days) but was filled up a little over 1/4 tank ago (I think there is 80 miles on it since filled) which would have been almost RT to work and back for her (just under 100 miles RT) unsure about gas station but I assume one of her normal stops (chevron ,Shell or the new racetrack about 20 miles from here) so there is a possibility then that none of the scanners I can buy ( http://www.durametric.com/porsche-carrera-996.aspx or the http://www.autoenginuity.com ) may find the code? thank you

Flat 6 is in Cleveland, GA and offers Porsche service.

Durametric is very good at reading resetting codes. Not sure about "pending" codes. It sounds like a coil or plug misfire. Could the 60k service been a little "light" on some plug replacement? Macster asked about the coils because they can crack with age/temperature shock (hot engine deep cold puddle). causing misfire in wet/foggy conditions.

I don't believe Jake (Flat-6) does regular maintenance type stuff and I don't believe he has a PIWIS. It might be worth check with him though. Your best best is probably Motor Werk Racing in Cumming just off of Exit 13. Call ahead, as they stay pretty busy.

I think if it was a cracked coil or loose coil wire the codes would be visible with the OBD II reader after the fact. I would check the battery cables and the ground wire first.

Quotes source post: 10654870

I thought they only did engine rebuilds, I will try calling them this morning thanks !

Quotes source post: 10655353

thanks, it just got a new battery, Hennessy Porsche had left it sit 5 weeks without touching the car and it killed the battery, (it was broken into and was there to be repaired) so when I had it picked up and taken to Jim Ellis Porsche to get it fixed, they had to put a new battery in it, I did check the cables, and the ground cable is tight at the battery and the body mount, I was surprised to see only one cable on it.

Quotes source post: 10655174

ok, I will call Jake this morning, and then motor werk, I did not find them listed searching yesterday, Thank you!

Quotes source post: 10655158

the 60k was done at a dealership, i can only assume they would had done it correctly, then again, I wasn't 100% sure they replace plugs at the 60k either, ya know I have not even been under this car except when we bought it, I had the dealer put it on the lift so I could see if there were any leaks on it, the last 911 I worked on was an older air cooled probably some 23 years ago, (was a auto tech for years and am long outdated) I have a heavy duty walker floor jack (well mine is a napa) i found out last night will not go all the way under the car (hahaha figures) but before i put it up today to pull plugs, I will call both the service shops posted and see if I can get it scanned. If I have to take it to cumming I may need to tow it there I drove it into Dahlonega and it acted up in that distance (about 12 miles) which lead to another question, how strong are the factory two locations in the front and rear for those eye bolts? is it safe to tow it in a trailer from both ends like that? (I have two of those hooks, we bought an extra just in case ) thanks

I have seen the eye bolts used to pull 996 with flat tires and bent suspension onto flatbeds at the track. Not sure if you can hookup a crane and lift one off the ground. Please Take pics if you attempt that. Could be crank position sensor failing. Not that common but it does happen. Still there should be codes stored. Buy a Duremetric enthusiast . if you do any DIY it will pay for itself the first or second time you use it. http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx http://www.durametric.com/default.aspx

The eye bolts and where they screw into the car are strong enough to allow the car to be winched up onto a tilted flat bed. Both of my cars have had this done several times. Porsche cautions that they should be not used to help secure the car in place as this puts some side load on the eye bolt but every tow truck operator I've watched does this. I objected a few times but it looks like I would have to duke it out with the operator to get him to change his behavior and frankly I'm not anxious to get into a fist fight with a probable ex-con... I do snap pics to show how the car was brought onto the bed and how it was secured just in case something goes wrong. So far nothing has gone wrong.

Quotes source post: 10656035

I will buy something, but need to get it done now, I took it to flat 6, ( http://www.flat6innovations.com/ ) they hooked up their scanner, it did not have any codes, but did show misfire 1 5 6 and something else about misfire (perhaps acknowledgement of some sort) forget what he said now, but no stored codes, suggested, cleaning MAF, checking plugs, , didnt think it would be coil packs funny car has not done it since, I could see it be a crank sensor I liked how his tool showed the cam position (one was just over -2 and the other just over -3. something ) guys have a nice clean place too, said I could come back sometime and get a tour of the place

Quotes source post: 10656035

don't think ill be trying that, I don't own a crane <g> a friend does have a track how though... thanks, took it in (see other post) no codes at all stored, jus tmisfires cyl 1 5 6

Quotes source post: 10657721

Doesn't read like a crank shaft position sensor problem, reads more like a coil problem. With misfire error codes and a flashing CEL that is a good indication the misfires were rich misfires. A crank shaft position sensor if it could cause misfires at all would cause mechanical ones. But I would be reluctant without more evidence to advise you to have the coils (and possibly even the plugs) replaced. But I would be equally reluctant to advise you to replace the crank shaft position sensor.

Quotes source post: 10657786

I could see it being coil issue as well, but the 1 5 and 6 cyl threw me off on the coils, next time we put it back on scanner after driving it some more, it did not show misfires. I drove the car about 50 more miles yesterday after cleaning MAF, and nothing went wrong at all. i never felt any hint of a misfire either, but that said, the maf "looked" before I used the CRC maf cleaner on it, at least as much of it as I could see Im going to pull plugs and look them over today, I bought new ones anyhow, not sure if they were replaced at the 60k or not, it was done at a Porsche dealership just before we bought the car buy the previous owner, all we know is that dealer said the 60k was done, we do not have the bill to see what all was done. (IOW did they replace or just inspect them?)

After my query I figured the issue was the MAF. The camshaft deviations are concerning though as they are only 1.5 degrees from triggering a CEL and are already out of range for our specifications. The MAF probably needs to be replaced and that horrendously dirty aftermarket air filter isn't helping anything. Cleaning a MAF only goes so far and your MAF appeared to be original equipment and should have died a couple of years ago. The MAF cleaning will probably hold you over for a while. Its odd having a local customer. Whats even more odd is a 996 showing up at our facility under it's own power. :-)

Quotes source post: 10660988

heheh it wasn't under it's own power by much <g> im betting it was factory MAF, 72k miles on it over 13 years, keep in mind though she has put 12,000 on it since Nov when she bought it, heck it would have had a ton more if it weren't stuck at Hennessy for 5.5 weeks to NOT get repaired for the break in damage, Still irritated over that.. Anyhow come to find out, it is a cleanable filter AFE dry filter, it washed up real nice, wasn't as bad as it looked either (still very dirty though), definitely doing it's job not letting anything pass it, I still do not like that setup though and NEED to replace that "cold" air setup with a closed off one, my wife drives her cars everywhere, it's not a weekend driver at all I have not changed the plugs on it yet, I wanted to drive it some more and be sure or see if it set the cel off again. I got some time to put some more miles on it over the weekend after cleaning the filter about 100 miles by end of Sunday, it did not set the light or start missing, so my wife took it to work two days now (another 200 miles no light, no missing) When I drove it Sunday, it did feel like a slight stumble at lower rpm steady or slightly off throttle a couple times. so it will get some plugs and have a good look at the coils and boot, I'll need to see who stocks that stuff around here or order them though. her other car ('11 mustang GT) is up for sale this is her only car till next year Thanks for the help, if I get caught back up in the next couple weeks, i would love a tour of your place, what I did see was nice neat and clean. can I ask a quick question, what plugs do you guys use, I like ngk over bosh but only because I have had a couple bosh fail prematurely in other vehicles. to tell the truth, I just hate to do the plugs without doing everything else right now. love to get it on a lift and poull the engine and give her a few repairs and possibly even an upgrade or two <g> thanks Tom

BTW car did this again, put it on a OTC scanner and got a P1238 manufacture control fuel air metering along with the 300, 301 cyl 1 306 cyl 6 305 cyl 5 303 cyl 3 304 cyl 4 not the plugs though not sure about the p1238 code now it;s been hectic here so have not had time to deal with it at all, but it needs to get done asap now any suggestions?

Quotes source post: 10932107

Well, my sources disagree. One (renntech.org) points to the #6 injector, the other one (a printed manual) points to the #2 injector. The printed source has this: P1238: Injector circuit cylinder 2 - interruption. The common theme is fuel injector.

I got conflicting ones as well but you may be on with the inj 2 I wish I could just get it someplace to get it repaired, I really do not have the time to do it (edited) talked to a shop that might be able to look at it, but said probably coils at this mileage, I really want to "know" what it is before I start sinking big bucks into it, might be hard to get it to them anyhow, at over 300 each for coils I sure hate to "waste" that money until I know for sure what is up... (update) I called dealer about coils, seems they are not near that price?? at 80 bucks a pop by VIN of our car? (posted a new thread about the maf though) she loves the car, but she really thought about selling it and getting a newer one

The misfire codes are being caused by an underlying condition that are creating the misfires. The misfire is often the symptom that is created by the problem, not the root of the problem. This is especially true when you have engine-wide symptoms like this that are not pin pointing a single cylinder and no others. I see this happen all the time when people believe that a code is specific to one issue and they look at the things directly related to those codes rather than what can create a condition that makes those conditions show up. Based on that I'd say that you probably need a MAF sensor. I have a whole bunch of good used coils, if you want to try that I'll sell you asset, but I'd bet the condition comes back. We can certainly repair this, while its not what we generally do (engines typically come here with parts expelled from them) we'll always help a local Porsche owner.

It takes all of 5 minutes to swap out the MAF...

Quotes source post: 10935263

I did call your place earlier today, to see if you carried parts like this, and did mention if you do this stuff there, I have got to say had I spoke to you earlier today, the car would had been there today! I hate throwing parts at something. I got one more coil off tonight, it looks to have a slight sign of a crack in it, I did have my wife get coils, MAF and the oil tubes down in Marietta. I did have some oil in one of the tubes hopefully tomorrow I can get this finished up. (still haven't pulled the plugs, will in the am , be interesting to see what they look like) - BTW this a pretty easy job, be real easy on a lift....... I still have not found a Air box for it, then again, I have not tried really hard, on ebay last I looked someone wanted 200 for one on there.

Looks like a complete one is ~150+ http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-00-01-Por...p2054897.l4276

Quotes source post: 10935512

looks like i will be able to work on this today, two more coils visibly cracked so three out of 6 but no signs of arc anyhow does everyone always replace the plastic oil boots and o-rings? I figured why not since im there but a couple are bone dry...

Quotes source post: 10935512

thanks ill see how this thing runs before I have one shipped to me

so now that I am looking at this closer, which direction should the maf be turned, on the factory air box it can only be installed one direction, but on the KN it looks like the block could be installed 180 out so does anyone know for sure?

The sensor has to face the airflow the same way it did in the stock airbox...very important. Look at around 7:00 in the video to see which way the open end of the MAF points. Note that the MAF connector boot also need to be rotated to connect to the MAF (8:20). The K&N filter can be cleaned, if is as dirty as stated by Jake, you might want to do this next. Be careful on how much oil you add to the filter after you clean it. It can get on the MAF and stop it from working correctly. http://www.knfilters.com/video/KN_Ai...r_cleaning.htm K&N Cold air filter Porsche 996 C2 Install - YouTube

Quotes source post: 10936712

thanks ill look at video now, not saying it is wrong, just figured seeing how I did not install the KN i might as well check to be sure it does not have the k&n filter it, someone had put the dry AEM filter in it, and yes I did clean it good. (you would think that would get done at the dealer when they change oils or at least they would let you know it needed done!!, so much for having it serviced at the dealership) anyhow... rant over on that... will be working on it now, replacing all the oil tubes plugs and coils, 2 cracked good enough to see easy, one very questionable, so no big loss on buying the coils, (not saying that was this cars issues) I have to say, it does not look like they were out at the 60k, just too dirty around there, hard to say how many miles on the plugs, I drop a pic up for giggles in a bit.... I thought there was an update on the MAF but the new one has the same partnumber as the one that was in it.....

found it - never mind anything special need to be disabled to check engine compression on the 2000 996? and if so how do I disaable it, I do not have a manual for this car it's all cleaned up with new oil tubes ready to get the new plugs installed and figured why not throw the snap- on gauge to it thanks tom

finished her up last night. have to replace the mounting bracket for the headlight leveler on the rear suspension - get her off the jack stands and test drive her sometime today I will say it took longer to get her back together than I thought it would working on the ground without pulling the mufflers, did the compression test, conservatively speaking 158-170 - but that was also done cold..... but at least there isn't sign of a "dead" cyl, I did not bother doing a wet test or leakdown on it, with 72k I figure if we keep her it will come out soon enough to do the IMS and stuff (or maybe it will become a turbo<g>) Happy thanksgiving to everyone and thanks to all for the help on this project..... I will see if the codes return and post an update

I agree with Jake, seems too general for coils or plugs. The coils do go bad, but the odds of three going bad simultaneously is pretty low. I hope you sorted it but suspect it will be back.

Personally I would just replace all 6 coils and be done with it once and for all. It's only a matter of time before other coils will start failing and you'll have to tear into it again. As for the K&N, you not only have to deal with over oiled filter elements affecting the MAF but that intake design is one of the worst I've seen. MAF sensors needs the straightest airflow with the least amount of turbulence/vortex and this design doesn't help in achieving that. That's why you see grates on some of the OEM MAFs to assist in straighter air flow.

Quotes source post: 10938595

I did replace all 6, three were cracked one of them you could hardly tell it, I figure at 40 a piece and the long drive to get them I might as well have them all here, I also replaced all the oil tubes plugs and did a compression test on it the air filter on this one is a dry element from aem, I didnt put this stuff on it, it was on it when I bought the car

Quotes source post: 10938453

im sure he is right, but not knowing when if they had ever been replaced heck not really knowing if the plugs had ever been replaced (60k was done at a dealership previous to our purchase, I figured why now car has 72k on it, three were cracked still no sign of any arcing though

Quotes source post: 10938622

That's only half of it and to further clarify on my post the MAF needs the straightest airflow as possible to get the most accurate airflow meter reading, so your ecu might not be seeing an accurate airflow value thus compensating ign/fuel maps inaccurately. A recent member actually gained hp back after he removed the K&N...

Quotes source post: 10938718

working with cars on dyno's before, I understand. Same with exhaust on certain brands of cars and motorcycles, hey if it's louder it has to have more power <grin> I wonder just how much that conical filter effects the MAF where it is located, and if it being so far from the throttle plate makes a difference as well, I never was able to test that on a dyno, that was years ago I worked with a dyno, but I would love to see the results first hand

Quotes source post: 10935263

put a new MAF on it put new plugs and coiils on it, engine did miss again, no code up right now, not sure if it had something to do with the p1238 or not, but that only came up that one time on that otc scanner, regardless, car is back together, it needed the plugs anyhow , this is passenger side bank in order

The K&N filter arrangement positions the MAF in an odd location. We have found that this position is less than optimum for the MAF to sample the air charge, especially at low engine speeds. That and the open filament air filter (that may have fouled the MAF in the first place) generally make for some problems. Of all the coil packs that we've seen with visible cracks I haven't seen one short to ground, ever. There's a P code for "coil shorted to ground", but we seldom ever see them in any Porsches other than the Cayenne which loses coil packs notoriously. Maybe you got it.

Quotes source post: 10939421

nope didn't get it, really didnt think it was going to be coiil either, but I was hoping the MAF would cure it, still had it on the jack stand when it started missing this time, was warming it up to change oil (they put 0-40 in it at dealer last time) 0 weight.... well maybe the last two mornings, that would be fine (20.7 yesterday on my porch 24 today) but it did warm up out there quickly saw 40 HAHAHA my only choice today is put that OTC I can borrow back on it and see if it shows anything, I would at least like to know which cyl is missing to have a place to start. an oscilloscope would be great that could hook up to this car

After swapping the MAF you ned to carry out a handover and system adaptation to ensure the new MAF isn't confusing the ECU. If the MAF had an issue and was effecting fuel trim, then you swap it out with another you can create other symptoms.

Quotes source post: 10940286

I assume even if the new MAF has the exact number on it as old one? 986.606.125.01 and if so, I need the Porsche tool (or equal) to do that? this thing idled smooth- for a minute or two then started missing, (just like it lost a plug) I have not started it up today wife is on her way to borrow that OTC and see if that p1238 popped up again (which had never been there before) IF the OTC scanner is reading codes correctly? thanks again Jake Tom

Did you get a cel light only after the first min or two when it started to run rough? Or was there always a cel light on? Did you double check your coil connectors to make sure they're all tight?

Quotes source post: 10940304

otc shows p1238 again, guess its time to try and diagnose that, funny but that never showed up before, perhaps that was the beginning of that failure... who knows, might have to just get it to the shop

Quotes source post: 10940329

no CEL, still no CEL, but p1238 came back, im going to pull the heat shields and double check all the connnections, but I know they all clicked when pressed on wish I knew for sure which cyl was missing, I would head right that way. not sure if it is bad to run it with coil disconnected to see which cyl doesn't change the rpm,,,,

P1238 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 2 - Open Circuit

Quotes source post: 10940501

well decided to do the hand test real quick, started her up let her run a sec, pipes got warm to touch, except for CYL 2 and CYL 6 shut her off pulled cly 2 coil and plug, plug was wet, put old coil back in fired her up, ran better still a miss pulled cyl 6 coil, put new coiil back on runs smooth all pipes warmed instantly...... now let her warm up change oil and filter (shoot never thought to check if my tool fits this oil filter housing (wonder if same as bmw or mercedes) will find out in a few then I will replace cyl 2 coil with the new one and see if it has same issue and I did DOUBLE check the wires to the coils before I did this if that was cause, these thigns are VERY touchy or I have bad connector that is if THIS solves issue but I will say, there is no code now at all, all in all, this does make me want to go bback into the profession and learn these cars far better.... (watch out Jake, your really close to me, if you start seeing me stop in say hello, close your gates!!! I might just want a job! <big grin>

Quotes source post: 10940549

I should had ALLCAPS the "IF" Had my wife drive it down the street and back while I cleaned up, then we took her out. it did not pull it off, about 25 miles into the second test drive it acted up, CEL came on flashing for a moment, then stayed on, shut her off, started her back up, ran fine for 5 miles or so, then cel flashed and cel stayed on, set p0306 this time. Over the last 12 or so miles back home from that point, it missed a couple quick times, p0306 misfire detected cyl 6 is the only one now, but still it acted just like it was doing before replacing the plugs, coils, MAF, cleaned the throttle plate (really didn't need it to much at all) and changing the oil. At least it didn't set 5 of the 6 cyl misfires this time <G> Arghhhhhh My Bride is bummed, she was pretty happy to drive it down the road again..... Tom

Remember what I told you about those camshaft deviations a few months back?? You could be seeing the effects of that with these misfires.

Quotes source post: 10941267

73k miles on it is all now. and yes, I remember, and I could understand variations in performance and setting a code,and misfires even, but actually loosing a cyl just like you unplugged the coil? it doesn't act like a cam timing / ignition timing to piston variation where there is some loss of power, like lost compression or intake valve not opening allowing air in properly or ignition timing being off it looses a cyl completely and it does not come back unless you shut the car down and restart it, is that the nature of this? then runs smooth, and has nice smooth power, (by feel mind you) it almost "seems" like a intermittent electrical issue of some sort, complete ignition loss, or fuel loss? if that is the problem causing this issue, it needs fixed for sure, but I hate to drop that (which is a bunch more) in it to find out something else is still wrong. I just dropped about 600 and it did not solve the issue as we thought it wouldn't, unless it was the MAF. grant it , it needed plugs regardless so im not complaining, just saying. ya know I hated buying coils not knowing for sure that was the problem, and the only reason i did was because if I did not pick them up wed, I know I could not have got them till next week when I know I cant work on the car again, I figured my luck, if i didn't get them, i would have a bad coil. honestly though, I really did not think the coils would solve the issue, or the plugs for that matter, chances of so many intermittently not firing was little to none , I just did not know when they had been replaced before. I was hoping it was the MAF though Which btw your the only one that I feel would not have just replaced the coils because of the age and miles, at least of the few people I spoke too, which one didn't even get back to me with a estimate (a recommended shop too) the first thing they said was coils.... right now as it stand this car will probably sit another month, and we need the car. Right now i'm at a loss with it. not sure what to try next, tear into it and start replacing stuff that isnt out of spec to "see" if it fixes it? i sure wouldnt mind getting on your scanner again and see what if anything is worse, I wish I had wrote down those specs that day. car has been sitting for what seems to be months now thanks again for your help Jake

With these engines even a sticking lifter can give a solid, dead miss. A flashing CEL is a serious concern, a misfire that heavy can even kill a catalytic converter. I have even had a bad knock sensor cause this... Too bad it wasn't caught before the engine split a piston in half and was only caught after it was repaired and reassembled only to have the same misfire. Those cam deviations were hefty, if they have gotten worse it's possible that they can cause this misfire easily and do so without throwing a code for out of range cam deviations. And of course the #1 cause for misfires today is the bad dual mass flywheel that allows one mass to dance freely and guess what's attached to that mass..... The timing reluctor wheel..

To the OP: I really hate to say this but never ever depend on a 13 year old 73,000 mile 996 as a DD. Its just too frustrating to trouble shoot the multi problem 996 while in a hurry about what to drive. At 73,000 miles with all the misfire problems and low compression, I would just say screw it and drop the engine. Just replace everything from the IMSB to the water pump and be done with it. Sorry but its just more 996 drama until you do. I agree with the others that the K&N should go. There are many OEM airboxes out there for sale.

[QUOTE=Flat6 Innovations;10941695] This is what I don't want to happen, so we are not driving it. car really hadn't been drove much since then, but who knows really, how busy are you next week? perhaps I can I get it back over there and get it on your scanner again? thing is, only way I really feel ok with moving it, is towed I really do not want to drive it that far after yesterday, can I bring it in my trailer unload the car someplace there while you check it out ill get it back loaded up and out of your way as soon as your done looking at it? my trailer is pretty big 8.5 x 20 V, I know the car fits in it fine, just never strapped her down in there, didn't know that either.... thanks Jake

dude take it to a mechanic...sooner or later your poking and hoping with parts is gonna put the car so far into the forest you will sell it not running.you want cheap and easy ? buy a chevy.some sensors require a lab scope AND the experience of knowing what the data means.

[QUOTE=KrazyK;10941863]To the OP: . lately it is all all about time, there just hasn't been any extra time. heck we had all but one vehicle down two weeks ago, hehehe, the 996 is that bad huh.... is 160-170ish low? haven't even looked to see what the compression should be on it. To tell the truth, IMO not sure how much I would drop into it, wife loves driving it sure, But she has looked at a few newer ones. (I know it won't be long and she will get another newer one, she really likes the looks of the turbo) And she is not going to have a car like this and not drive it. it will be one of the few cars that gets high miles on it. right now, I just want to find what this problem is. then decide what to do with it. this all started after it sat at the dealership for repair from an attempted breakin, 5 and half weeks at one and the other dealership was 3 weeks. anyhow, so I started looking to see what might possibly have gotten chewed on by rodents, but do not see any signs of that anywhere that I can see looking up what the compression should be on a 2000 996 3.4 quickly, I found no hard information, someone had posted a reference to 160 psi. someone else posted 155-175, but that is just someone posting.... anyhow main thing about 160-170 ish, is I did not find a dead cyl. causing this issue.

Quotes source post: 10941971

uhh did I say anything about cheap and easy? No I did not. just looking for some help with it was all. sorry I wasted your time...........

Quotes source post: 10941863

[QUOTE=tks12;10942011] I guess you did this on a cold engine so the number will be lower. They are all within 10% so you should be good. I was told that the Durametric was all that was needed to check an Engine for a PPI and a compression test wouldn't be necessary. Like you, I found no values in the Bentley but I have seen numbers posted in the 200 + range on a hot engine. So, this was in a dealer for a repair... what did they do??

Compression and leak down checks on the engine need to be done with the engine warm. I bet when you did that compression check that you didn't block the throttle plate wide open, did you? If not the intake manifold and its characteristics can easily give a 10% differential between cylinders. 160 on a cold engine is pretty good, but the camshaft deviations can also impact the compression numbers since they are dynamic and are a direct result of chamber filling, which is directly impacted by valve timing events. With those valve timing events occurring with deviations the compression numbers will suffer, too.

yes, I know it should be done warm, it was apart and I wanted some type of a base, to be sure I did not have a "dead cyl" heck if 4 showed 170 and 2 showed 150 it would had been a reason to do a leak down test and go from there, and yes throttle plate was blocked wide open, (I was a mechanic for years, built a ton of engines performance and stock when at dealership - U.S. cars and some jap) only worked on a couple Porsche (besides my 924 and 944)and that was years ago (pre mid 80's some time) had from 160-170 one cyl barely hit 160 on my snap-on gauge (ill have to look but I think it was cyl 1) I understand that, (and please keep mind I do not know these engines at all) it just doesn't "seem" that the cam deviation would act like this is (unless it was horribly out then it seem it would not run smooth at all So, is there a "failsafe or limp mode" built into the computer if it reaches some point of deviation it kills the spark or fuel to a cyl? (edited) let me clarify my question - is there some failsafe that would allow it to kill the cyl, and it not fire again until the car was shut off and restarted? if not, i wonder why you actually have to shut the car off, then restart it for it to run smooth again (and reason I was thinking some electronic issue (be bad wiring, sensor or?) IOW Even if it is was out of factory spec, could it cause a cyl to fully drop, just like you disconnected the coil, to the point you could lay your hand on the header pipe and a cyl be cold (i know lousy way to check), but it was actually that cold, I have no oscilloscope here at the house

Quotes source post: 10944212

worked all day yesterday never had time to do anything with it, im going to try in the next day or few to double check connections, look over everything again the best I can, i will double check the battery as well..... we may get a newer one soon. (she looked at a turbo cab not long ago) I'm going to do a bit more research on what model year before she buys another though, ill tell ya that, had I known about all the problems with the 996 , i would have stayed clear from it, at least until I knew if she would really enjoy driving it everyday, the biggest problem with putting a ton of money in a older car is, if something happens to it, and you need a ins payoff, your only going to get what the retail value of the car is, have a 20-25kk car that you had to put 10 k in it, well your out a bunch of cash if some idjut totals your car....

Are you joking? There's only about 10,000 threads about the problems, and thats just on Rennlist. Seriously though, you are so close to JR's shop why dont you let him have a better look at it?

Turbos GT2 and GT3 are based on a different, stronger engine. No ball bearing IMSB, dry sump, etc... Google Mezger engine for hours of reading pleasure. That doesn't mean they can't have problems like you are experiencing. Interesting discussion starting on page 2 here. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...s-newer-2.html

Quotes source post: 10946378

I did look at it briefly back over the summer.. The owner is a DIY kind of guy, which I appreciate, and he is trying to both learn and save some money. Plus, we are only focused on engines that have failed... Trust me, the people that we deal with routinely would pay good money to trade places with the owner of a car that ONLY had some misfire codes. That sort of thing is not what finds cars here from 30 states :-)

Quotes source post: 10946378

not really joking, short answer I did not do a bunch of digging into the 996 known issues.

I hate to break it to you, but issues associated with sensors, coil packs, plugs, MAFs, etc can and will occur with any modern car. ESPECIALLY German ones, for whatever reason they can't quite make reliable electrical components like the Japanese and even the Americans. You are attempting to diagnose and repair a car that you are not familiar with, and without even basic computer diagnostic tools. At this point you are just swapping components and hoping for the best. No offense intended because all DIY mechanics have been there, but it's also not really the fault of the car. I purchased a Boxster several years ago that had a high RPM misfire and CEL, the owner had dropped over $2k at a reputable German shop without getting it fixed. I took a gamble on a hunch, fortunately for me the misfire code followed the ignition coil. $35 later I had a really nice car. The 996 is a great car despite its detractors, I will take one all day long over a comparable BMW, Audi, or Mercedes product. I believe they are not only better to drive, but far better made as well as easier to work on.

Quotes source post: 10947256

ya know what though, if I wasted 42 bucks a pop on coils, every other shop I talked to outside of jake would had done the same thing, I talked to three here.... at least now, we know it is not coils or plugs. and that maf was nasty......car had 73k on it now, it did not look like the plugs were done at 60 but it is hard to tell 12k miles on a plug or 24k who knows when they were last done..... (also let me clarify) im not blaming the car.... im just saying had I known more about it, (which is only my fault) I would had insisted we bought newer, ( at least then I wouldn't feel like I'm dumping money in a chevy <BIG GRIN> pun intended- I know one person will get a laugh out of that! In no way am I insulting the 996, we actually love the car and for mid 20's you cant buy anything like it) if I weren't so set on adding a early 30's truck to my list next year, I would keep this and make a toy out of it for me - if the wife buys a newer one... too bad this isn't a red turbo cab, the engine would be out of the car already....... and I would be sweeping floors, mowing grass (ok raking leaves this time of year at a place near here <g>)

Quotes source post: 10946576

BTW jake, when I do come over that way, I have something to show you, you will like the capacity on this Italian toy <g>

Quotes source post: 10946566

thanks, anything can have intermittent issues we know that.

Quotes source post: 10946576

hehehe, funny about the "only" had some misfire codes, I am surprised to see several independent shops around Atlanta do not work on these at all for various reasons, I respect the ones that tell you this upfront, I should go buy them lunch just for being honest with me. what is funnier yet, is how many do not return your call to even ask them about bringing the car in to the shop, and even one that I was able to bring it in, looked at the car, would not let me leave it as they were booked for a couple weeks(understandable), said they would get us an estimate and yet never contacted us back with THE estimate to do the repair! (and that was a recommended shop) guess they really didn't know what to do Nice fancy shop too... There is a place called CaliAuto in Stockbridge that said they would look at it, I have never been there, small place one man one gal place, I was going to try and get the car there this morning, but weather and my other work stopped me. Anyone know anything about them? that is a heck of a haul for me..... not sure when I can get it there now, next choice would be Jim Ellis Porsche I guess which again is a heck of a haul for me I did double check all connections to coil packs and injectors that I could get my hands on without taking it apart. I still feel it is something electrical, unless like you suggest the dual mass flywheel, but still that doesn't make sense it will kill a cyl completely, shut car off restart and all is fine... This car always ran perfect, unti8ll after the battery had gone dead from sitting at Hennessy for over 5 weeks, I do not see any signs of mice either <g>

Quotes source post: 11044322

Save on the trip to Jim Ellis. They are a dealership first and foremost and will act like a typical dealer. Your car will not get any star treatments or attention to detail like some Indy's can provide. They had to redo a couple items on my car a couple times since it was rushed and things were overlooked.

The fellow from Caliauto attended my class a few years back. Nice guy. I wish we could help you, the one thing we don't have in reserve of is time. Its insane here.

Quotes source post: 11044574

I understand not having time, if I ever get this figured out, we will decide on what to do with car, it needs other stuff soon as you know. she saw a 06 turbo cab somewhere online it might be a replacement, me I would rather go older and have a fun track use car, then again, there has been no time to do that either I should free up next month, maybe I can run by your place, I will stay in touch.

Quotes source post: 11044473

Jim Ellis did the top repair, or sent it out to be done, but they took care of a scratch that was put in the car as well, had no problem with that repair anyhow.

Quotes source post: 11044725

My point exactly

Quotes source post: 11045056

I wasn't clear, Jim Ellis didn't put he scratches in it, that was done during the attempted break in of car