34 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH1st 911-Steering wheel jumps? NOW FIXED!!!
Leading reported evidence
Run 19's no problem
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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Leading evidence: 'Run 19's no problem' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'scam than otherwise' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check bent wheels too' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
i set all 4 corners to 32 and did the runs again, seemed a little better but still quite prominent.
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Suggestion
You're under inflated, check the sticker on the car or look in the manual.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I had a PPI done, the only two things they found were a slight fray in the belt, which they replaced and that the brakes both front and rear would need replacing fairly soon.
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Outcome without a verified action link
the car's steering wheel doesn't vibrate or shimmy or veer when the road is smooth or even a little rough, it's only during cracks across the road that the wheel will shimmy/shake back and forth a bit then go back to normal.
Hi Guys, no bit the bullet and bought my first 911, a 2003 C4S, 6spd.
I had a PPI done, the only two things they found were a slight fray in the belt, which they replaced and that the brakes both front and rear would need replacing fairly soon.
I've noticed over rough roads, going over bumps and cracks the car still tracks straight but the steering wheel will shake (similar to that of turning slightly).
It seems to be worse the faster I go, 70mph it vibrates or shakes more vs 50mph vs 30 mph over the same stretch of road.
I checked the tire pressure and there was 35 in the drivers and 32 in the passenger. i set all 4 corners to 32 and did the runs again, seemed a little better but still quite prominent. I then put 100lbs in the front cargo area and it seemed to be worse.
I've had the front of the car raised and looked for play in the Tie rods, but doesn't seem to be any.
There seems to be a slight creek at very slow speeds (parking lot) when turning the car, more so perhaps to the right.
car tracks straight, doesn't shimmer or shake under hard breaking either.
Tires were new on the car when i purchased them.
Any ideas?
Turns out it was a worn out front passsenger shock. I had new Bilstein Sport shocks put in at all 4 corners and the alignment done and WOW
Now that's what I figured a porsche would handle like!
You're under inflated, check the sticker on the car or look in the manual. You should be at about 36 F and at least 40 in R. If weighing the front made it worse, you may need more caster also your toe is more than likely off. Shimmy or wheel shake at speed is usually tire balance, if your pressures were off that much balancing is most likely off as well. Check for bent wheels too.
Hey Guys thanks for the advice, i'll try the new tire pressures. I have the stock turbo twist rims, tire size i think is stock, i'd have to run to the garage to check for sure.
Just took out a friends' 07' C4S, which is lowered, runs on 19" and it felt the same a but much less so. he said my car is either out of alignment or just could be that it's 8 years old.
My car is not lowered to my knowledge.
Will keep everyone posted.
Slight belt fray could be due to an accessory drive having too much bearing play and the belt mistracking and rubbing on the side of a pulley of an accessory drive. It was a sharp (inner) edge on a serpentine belt that clued me (along with a few other things) an accessory drive had too much bearing play and I id'd the water pump.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Update: put the tires at the recommneded pressures=no better, no worse.
here's a little bit of video showing it, you can really see it at 38-42 seconds.
the car's steering wheel doesn't vibrate or shimmy or veer when the road is smooth or even a little rough, it's only during cracks across the road that the wheel will shimmy/shake back and forth a bit then go back to normal. it's very odd to me. did the same road in my STI and my mazda3 both at 70mph and nothing.
is this just bump steer? tie rods? steering rack?
will keep posted once i get the alignment done, but any other troubleshooting would be much appreciated.
Finally an update: Right passenger shock is shot. need to replace the fronts, quoted 4200 and change for two new struts, install and alignment (400 for alignment?!) and this was not at the dealership.
Join and search the for sale section:
These were offered @ E595.00
https://rennlist.com/forums/for-sale...d-springs.html
Tire Rack offers front Bilstein HD for ~$750 set, all 4 for ~$1150
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/S...3&autoModClar=
Quote was given by RIEGEL TUNING in Calgary Alberta.
2700 for 2 new front struts
237 for the mounts
640 for 5 hrs of labor
396.80 for alignment (3 hrs)
5% tax
= 4226.61
so i'm on the hunt for just front shocks and i'll do it myself. might even drive the car to the states for an alignment
Miles...?
High miles and I would vote for front CV joints.
Rough road beds....acceleration mode...stability control.
Front drive via VC (viscous clutch) open front diff'l, rough road, may be normal.
Price quote is out of line, maybe by a factor of 10 for DIY.
Plus it's more likely a scam than otherwise.
I could get an entire brand new PSS10 coilover kit shipped, installed, and aligned for less than that.
Unfortunately you can't get Koni Sports for the C4S, but Bilstein makes HD and Sports for the front. A little pricey at $393 each from Tire Rack, but it still should come in at ~$1500 for delivered price + pay shop to install + alignment.
Those prices are just out of control. Here's the stock part from Vertex:
http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/1...-%20Front.aspx
Call Suncoast or Sunset and I wouldn't be surprised if it's even cheaper.
-Shawn
Have ordered Bilstein HD front shocks, hope to have them in by the weekend. will keep everyone posted. but hey, it's calgary and this town is full of oil money, so EVERYTHING is stoopid expensive here!
Thought about doing coilovers but had some in my STI and ride was too harsh, the roads here are like
as for miles, it's got 87,000KMs. clutch will be next as it's like pushing 100lbs on a leg press to get it pushed in!
Your mechanic's diagnosis is almost certainly correct. Only the pricing is off. I'm sure you can shop around and find a good alternative to do the work. For your reference, a four wheel alignment here in Houston runs $185 at the dealer. I'm not sure what shock installation costs here, as I've done my own, but I would guess $500 to $1000 max.
Good luck and keep us posted.
It was hard to tell from your video, but I didn't see much. I get a little "feedback" through the wheel on rough roads. It's not excessive nor is it particularly annoying. It's called road feel. My 335 did this a little as well.
Sure my wife's MB doesn't do this and neither does my truck, but they have no road feel at all. Total isolation.
Remember this is a sports car. Of course you have driven it and I haven't. But if it is tracking true through a hard sweeper, you may not actually have a problem.
I'd get a second opinion unless you just want new struts.
I compared it to my patients' 997 C4S, it's waaay different in my car than his. as well it's been getting worse over the last month, each bump is getting harsher each day i drive to work. I will keep everyone posted and thanks for all the input, this forum is great!
Aspen,
Get a quote for alignment and balancing from Harper's Tire down South between McLeod and Blackfoot and ~54 Ave IIRC.
You don't have to have it done by P-car high end indy.
I used them in the past with v. good results.
They will custom align your chassis if necessary.
Anybody has the best settings for 996?
The clutch fork angle does change as the clutch wears making it stiffer.
There is also one other thing to check.
That would be the clutch helper spring under the dash. They break and folks sometimes remove them to get a linear feel on actuation.
Do a search for "clutch helper spring"
Here is one thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...matically.html
