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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHShould I buy a 4 or 5 channel amp?
Leading reported evidence
Replace headunit
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I recently changed my headunit with an Alpine CDA-105 and 5-channel amp (Alpine PDX-5).
Leading evidence: 'Replace headunit' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace headunit' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Replace speakers and amps, and it makes a big difference
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion
I did replace the speakers and amps, and it makes a big difference.
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Suggestion
I currently have the amp's front outs running the dash speakers on full, amp's rear running the door (low pass), and the amp's subwoofer outs running the Bose subs.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
I currently have the amp's front outs running the dash speakers on full, amp's rear running the door (low pass), and the amp's subwoofer outs running the Bose subs.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I currently have the amp's front outs running the dash speakers on full, amp's rear running the door (low pass), and the amp's subwoofer outs running the Bose subs.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I currently have the amp's front outs running the dash speakers on full, amp's rear running the door (low pass), and the amp's subwoofer outs running the Bose subs.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
I currently have the amp's front outs running the dash speakers on full, amp's rear running the door (low pass), and the amp's subwoofer outs running the Bose subs.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Ran all the speaker wires from the head unit to the trunk where the factory amp was and spliced into the factory wiring there, with the sub channel going to the amp first.
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6 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T000231Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I have an 03 C2 w/ Bose.
Just ordered a Kenwood Excelon Head unit.
I know I'll have to rewire everything.
I did a search and couldn't find an answer.
Your help is greatly appreciated.....Thanks
Depends, are you going to try to integrate into all the factory stuff or are you going completely custom here? (integration is going to be very difficult because of the optical bus).
If you are going totally custom, 5 channel won't help you much - because there are limited options for aftermarket subwoofers in this car. I would recommend a self powered sub like a bazooka or the flat ones (or a custom enclosure to go behind the rear seats).
Unless you want to hack into the dash, a 5.1 center system won't work either since there is not a center speaker port.
So long story short, buy a 4 channel if you plan to go completely custom without a sub or a self powered sub.
Or a 5 channel if you plan to go totally custom with an unpowered sub in a custom enclosure.
You'll love the Kenwood unit. I've got the DNX-6960 in my car and it's a nice upgrade.
I did replace the speakers and amps, and it makes a big difference.
I also have an '03 Coupe with the Bose system. I recently changed my headunit with an Alpine CDA-105 and 5-channel amp (Alpine PDX-5). I also have the iPOD connector and now Bluetooth for my phone. I'm loving the system; cleaner and clearer than before.
I integrated the amp using the "factory" Bose harness from England. Everything was pretty much a plug-in-play. I only had to cut the rubber grommets in the firewalls and tap into the wires.
I currently have the amp's front outs running the dash speakers on full, amp's rear running the door (low pass), and the amp's subwoofer outs running the Bose subs. The headunit's internal amp powers the rear quarter panel speakers.
Note the ohms of these Bose speakers are weird. I had to re-wire the Bose subs from parallel to series to increase the ohms from about 1 to 4. The factory doors are 2 ohms but most amps can handle that resistence.
I am in the process of upgrading the 5.25" Bose sub speakers. However, the factory box is 13.8 liters (about .48 cubic feet); it is difficult to find one that will fit with the ports. I'm going to test some (on sale) $12 Aurasound speakers used in the 2005 Ford GT (A $4000 Mcintosh system). Otherwise: Morel or Focal or CDT.
The best info I found was from renntech:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...install-notes/
Have fun!
Same car, same story.
I put in a Kicker 400.1 amp for the sub speakers. put the door subs in parallel and those in series with the sub in the back.
a nice thing about Kicker sub amps is that they are auto ohm sensing.
Ran all the speaker wires from the head unit to the trunk where the factory amp was and spliced into the factory wiring there, with the sub channel going to the amp first.
Once you cut the low frequency out of the head unit amp (you should find a setting in the head unit menu) it frees up more power for the mid and highs so no need to run everything through an amplifier.
It's really not that hard to do once you get your head around it.
I have no doubt that the internet audiophiles would find fault in my setup, but it works and sounds good to me.
Oh, a late model VW harness adapter will help.
Brian
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