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YOUR RESEARCHYay for me! Update 6/27/10): IMS, RMS, Clutch DONE~!
Reported or suspected cause
coolant leaking
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported cause
You are right, it is salt or calcium build up, but it is caused by the coolant leaking from the oil cooler.
Yay for me! Update 6/27/10): IMS, RMS, Clutch DONE~!
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Leading evidence: 'coolant leaking' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'coolant leaking' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check chain tensioners socket size' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
So double checking posts and rereading the instructions, I went under the car and checked the chain tensioners socket size.
Yay for me! Update 6/27/10): IMS, RMS, Clutch DONE~!
Clean tranny and inside
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Yay for me! Update 6/27/10): IMS, RMS, Clutch DONE~!
Install gt3 console delete in
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Yay for me! Update 6/27/10): IMS, RMS, Clutch DONE~!
Install ims retro fit bearing
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Yay for me! Update 6/27/10): IMS, RMS, Clutch DONE~!
Clean lines
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Suggestion · Original poster
It's my wifes project....see she found them on Craigslist and "she" went and got them, then "she" fixed all the dings and she did start painting them the first day...then "she" continues to put all the coats on and "she" tapes it up to get the clean lines.
Yay for me! Update 6/27/10): IMS, RMS, Clutch DONE~!
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106 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 1 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
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Generation: 20261027T053112Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
What temps you got there? I was using torpedo heaters and the cement floor was cc-c-c- cold.
I found that a large smooth finished peice of 1/4" cardboard is really nice to work on. You slide really easy on it and it also has some cushion to it.
I bought a rug also and it was nice, But I had to scoot on it becasue if I tried to slide on it it would just bunch up. The cardboard was best
I don't know. The RMS is toast....well I'm going to 100% that comment but the bottom is thick with gudge... yes thats a word. I know I've got the clutch, and all the other stuff to do. I would hate to put it together knowing I didn't do the IMS.
But all of it might wait, I just found out Friday my DD needs new front brakes and rotors...
cardboard and it's shorts weather today.....So that part is nice. I can remember working on my old car as a kid in Montreal and there being packed snow in the engine bay..... No more for me thanks.
Yesterday was about 3 hours including the building the safety blocks from 2X12's (hour).
Today was another 3 since the top bolt was a demon. There's definitely a lot of learning curve in this job. I'm sure I can cut a lot of that time out, especially since the clutch slave should have stayed in and I should have just detached the hydraulic line instead. I need to bleed the clutch line too sometime.
Having a couple Shiner Bocks while cooking the steaks to dull the knuckle pain.
I've put the garage on a diet getting rid of much stuff I don't use. The best part was getting rid of the kiddie stuff like picnic tables and strollers....
You've got a couple years more of that!
Yes $500 even.
It's my wifes project....see she found them on Craigslist and "she" went and got them, then "she" fixed all the dings and she did start painting them the first day...then "she" continues to put all the coats on and "she" tapes it up to get the clean lines. So she's proud of her project......ahem.
Oh and it comes with two book cases so she's happy it'll fit in the girls play room....
Oh yes! There's a group of exotics coming over from Arizona in May to go to the wifey's work place. We're going to get a good group together and show them what fun Palomar can be.
I know! Mother...you need to go too! Screw the foo foo stuff. the roads here are awesome. Coming from Tucson where the first curves start at Mt. Lemmon, Gates Pass, or Kitt Peak...all an hour away....
or highway 666... that takes for ever to get there.
I'm 10 min. away from twisties. You won't be disappointed.
Beats Mill Avenue or the 202 Loop where down shifting is only used when avoiding speed cameras!
(I lived in AZ for 16 years.........)
I followed Shark Attack's thread, and seeing this one, I have to ask, is there a reason that you guys aren't dropping the engine and trans as a complete assembly, when you tackle these jobs? Is it due to the fact that you aren't using lifts, or is there a lot more work in removing the engine?
-Jon
WAAAAY to much involved to drop everything and then crack open the tranny anyways...
This is on hold until I get the Pads and rotors changed on the Audi, waiting for the pads on this.
looks like you have some oil seapage on you AOS end.... I found that this is what happens when you use the worm clamps. Those bellows are very thin and the clamps pinches it enough to have a leak... use the oem clamps, they make a tighter seal.
what is it?
It's the RMS Ed, but it's only a seal not anything super bad. Super bad is when the one bearing below goes to crap.
Yes I know I need to hunt that seepage down too. Probabley why I knew this was going to be a long fix.....
I don't know I'll have to look again I never really noticed it.....
the rubber bellows (that attaches at the bottom of the AOS) gets pinches by those worm clamps... that is not the oem clamp you pictured.
In that area, there is a sensor as well (cam position sensor)... there is an "O" ring that can also show its age and will seap oil.
people use the worm clamp cause its a real b*tch to put the OEM clamp back on after replacing the rubber bellows... but this is what happened to mine with the worm clamp.
here is the OEM clamp...
here is the sensor with the fatigued "O" ring
Awesome! thanks. I'll have to add that to the long (and getting longer) list. Is the cam position sensor just a unbold and reinstall or is there any preparation (ie. positioning the cam etc.?)
Yeah, I was gonna suggest an AOS replacement while hes in there, but the worm clamps suggest it's already been changed, or at least the bellows has. More than likely just the bellows as on a new AOS it comes with a new bellows attached with a squeeze clamp attached at the top.
I didnt do that great of a job. But i laid a dish pan under the area and then sprayed it with degreaser, wipe, repeat... after 3 times I said screw it, g'nuf.
bwaahaha! Not quite finished. I was delaying it to take care of the DD and the parts are ordered for that so today I'm cleaning all the parts, getting the list together and will order from Sunset monday.
As for Palomar there will be hopefully a big run in May with a group coming from Arizona.
Thanks! That's the wifey and where she works. It's one of the only jobs you leave happier then when you showed up in the morning.....
I cleaned the tranny and inside today. I also figured I'm going to have to do the IMS retrofit....The fear mongers got the best of me and I figure it's a safe bet....
Just ordered the IMS retro fit plus removal tool, I tried to borrow Kyle's bearing tool but his conditions regarding "first born" were too much.... J/K anyways........
Timing and overall cost to have the removal tool shipped and shipped back would be pretty close to owning one. Plus now we have one in So Cal. Woot!
Oh don't worry about that, I had my boy drag his "red wagon" wagon across the front of the bumper, had the niece open the SUV into the door leaving a great dent. I try to keep it nice but with all that and rock chips coming from the guys in front of me, I'm not interested in a pristine car I drive it like I want and enjoy it. Someday I'll repaint the front and fix the dents but for now it's all preventative maintenance and go fast parts....
Lots of brake cleaner, I'll show you the before and afters.
Yes, I saw that in your posts on your rebuild. Figured I'd give it a go and it worked really well. As for the respirator, I dont have a gas respirator, just particulate masks and they don't do squat for fumes.
I figured out why there's white gunk in that area. The white gunk is either salt or calcium build up. That space is open to the air and if water gets in it heats up and evaporates and leaves what ever wlse was splashed in with the water...................!
So I installed the iMS retro fit bearing today. Things I realized:
I didn't own a 32mm socket.
I didn't own a magnetic telescoping wand.
I didn't own a set of rachet wrenchs.
So double checking posts and rereading the instructions, I went under the car and checked the chain tensioners socket size. 32mm really? Really? Damn, off to Krager, nope, Home Depot, nope, Ace hardware, nope, Autozone, yes yay!
So I take out the tensioners and they don't look that bad, as seen below.
I then go for gold, and take out the IMS flange, unfortunately during the flange removal, the flange and IMS bolt acted as a vacuum and when the flange came out the bolt shot back about 5 inches. At first my heart sunk and I felt sick but realized tha the shaft was hollow and it was only a magnetic wand away.....
Everything else was a snap.
Two issues with the retrofit.....
1. In the instructions there is no mention of the snap ring that goes in after the bearing is installed. After bearing install, they go straight to flange install.
2. During install there is a comment about the o ring that is attache to the head bolt of the IMS retrofit kit. If you use that spare oring the oring squishes and is comprimised. I don't think it goes in. if it doesn't then it shouldn't be in the kit.
Now the Million Dollar Question!
Did I need the bearing? I honestly don't know. The old one seemed fine, didn't appear that is was going out, or rolling rough. I don't know. Is it insurance? maybe.... could I have made it worse by getting in there and breaking seals, maybe. Who knows.
That's all.
good job Ed....
order new tenssioners look careful here... its only a matter of time. (could be a year or so, its not a huge rush, but its showing signs of wear)
I am a bit confused as to why a 99' C2 has the double row. I always assumed the early models would all be single and the later the doubles...
interesting
Correct but I can do this with the tranny in too.... There is some scoring, i'm going to have to think about it.... It's not really noticable in person. The flash from the camera brings it out.
You are right, it is salt or calcium build up, but it is caused by the coolant leaking from the oil cooler. My 911 was not driven in the rain or snow and looked the same. I could see water marks under my oil cooler just above the place of discussion. I replaced the 4 o-rings. The 2 on the coolant side were flat not round like the new ones.
O-ring should be at the base of the flange. So put the o-ring on the shaft then put on the flange. This is an oil seal like the original.
I torque to original spec and then add a little more.
It looks like you have the older style flange. Once oil gets in the bearing it�s just a matter of time. I would say for the cost it�s worth it. You also have the older style tenssioners, I would upgrade. The newer one has a spring on the end.
Great Job, IMS UPGRADE
Nope! That wedding last week killed me. Especially when you can "put it on your room?" at the pool and all the bars........
I expect to order the parts either next week or at the first of the month. I just ordered all the fluids last night....
I drove down I-15 to Escondido this morning (why I told you you shoulda called!) and saw everyone enjoying their weekend toys, Ferrari 599, couple Cobras, old convertible stingrays and an old cab turbo. Really depressing.
Dealer called and said the parts went out today for the remaining parts.......
Except they didn't put the address label on the package and now the package is en route to Ohio to the lost package storage........... WTF?
Parts reordered and will be here in one to two weeks...........
SIGH.
Yeah, what's another week? I just don;t like going under the car to tinker and wonder if I torqued everything or not. I end up re-torquing everything again...
Are you back now? How was the trip?I watched it from home....I don't think it had the same atmosphere!
Yep, we got back last night. It was quite an experience. We had several tours of garages by team managers: Flying Lizards, Corvette Racing, Drayson Racing, then we were hosted by Michelin in their VIP compound with several tours of parts of the track and their workshop on Sat and Sun. Stayed in a 500 year old chateau, which was cool too. Ate good food and drank good wine.
Tires are supposed to be on the way....
Man looks nice!
I just received the package from Sunset today! It appears that they did put the label on the box! I opened the box to make sure it was all in there then called Jeff the parts guy up and I asked him if he wanted to buy some parts......
He was pretty happy that I called. I told him to hook me up next time I order.
Guess what I'm doing Saturday!?!
I already installed the GT3 console delete in!!!! It already feels faster.
After five hours today.
AOS bellows done
Pilot bearing done
Gearbox oil change done
clutch bleed done
Fly Wheel, Clutch, Pressure Plate install done
Gear box two inches away from engine...almost installed.
Need to do tomorrow:
Mate gear box to engine
Pour in new oil into engine.
Turn key....
just be aware, the tranny doesnt "clunk" into place and mate right up.. you have to draw it up with the bolts. I was very scared thinking we weremis-aligned to the disc but that is just how it is...
I am sure you are tired - WTG !
Thanks guys. My wrists are a little tweaked this evening.
I forgot to add that I also pulled the manual cover off today!
And to anyone who wants to know the manual holder underneath the steering wheel is held on by those push rivets. The best way to get them off is to push a small -1/8" rod or punch up through the center of the rivet.....
Or yank the hold off rivets and all, nothing damaged luckily for me!
Ed, may I ask a question hoping you don't think it's stupid...what is the manual cover for? I have one in my Boxster and have no idea what it is used for.
Thanking you in advance,
Bruce
some people use it to put the manual in - you drive around with the manual in between your legs....
yea I know
think how bad the MKII owners feel, they cant remove their manual box (aka glovebox)
I'd love to get an old air cooled canyon stormer. Ed Hughes' 911 "Ruby" taunts me all the time and really distorts the reality of the typical air cooled 911. But I'm always daydreaming about owning a RS or RSR clone.
Wow - you've been busy! So after all this playing around are you still planning on driving the thing??? Just kidding - looking for your next invite to take a group to Palomar. Great pics by the way!
Rudy
I think I hear the sirens calling me from Palomar Mtn right now. Ruby needs a hillclimb.
Oh, wait, that is the sirens at the base of Lake Wohlford Road from about 15 fire rigs, 8 cop cars, as well as the noise of 2 Cal Fire bombers dropping chemicals and 2 super scooper choppers pulling water out of Lake Dixon on a wild fire about 1/2 a mile from my house for the last 90 minutes.
Ruby still needs a hillclimb.
That bitch is on..... the bolts are on the top two are torqued and I had to call it quits to go to dinner with the family.
I think my clutch lever arm was in the way this morning. Man I'm not doing this again without a scissor lift...
It's all done!
Drove it for a bit. Seems like everything is going good! With new gear oil it shifts smoother, clutch engages farther down in the pedal travel. Everything is awesomness.
Final issues after I put it on the ground were that the RPM's were surging and I couldn't figure out why until I looked at the throttle cable and it was not fully onto the stop..?....
Come to find out after a couple of minutes of trying to figure out what was going on.... I guessed the throttle cable was really tight. I jacked it up again and realized I put the throttle cable below the clutch slave. Damn.... I unhooked the cable tied a string to it and went under the car. Pulled the cable out untied the string, restrung the cable OVER the clutch slave and then had my son pull the string while I rethread it back to the throttle body.
I also bled the clutch wrong (didn't depress the pedal while bleeding) and had to redo that...
Once all of that was resolved I put it back on the ground and drove it around the neighborhood a bit and all seemed good!
Lessons learned.....
1. Next time I'm going to do this with a lift.
2. I'm going to buy the "porsche" tools to do it too.
a. engine support ~$200
b. RMS install tool ~$100
It's worth the cash and less $ than sending it to the dealer.
Here's a final photo with his brother, the recently debadged A4.
Yeah I pulled out of the garage I found a clip that separates the throttle body from the clutch slave on the floor. I couldn't bear lifting it again and there were tow others isolating the cable. I wondered where it went when I was reconnecting the cable......
I'm especially happy after going through the boxes when cleaning and didn't finds anything else left to attach, like the clip to the clutch lever arm!!!!!
I did have a big box of interior console pieces left! Damn shame. Hopefully it won't cause any problems.
And this morning I thought about the oil in the shaft as a sign of an impending failure. I'm going to disagree on that since the factory & retrofit bearing do not have any type of seal on the bolt holding the bearing onto the flange. There's going to be oil seaping into the shaft retrofit bearing or old bearing between the bearing and the flange bolt.
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