H&R w/ Bilstein HD or Sport???

What is the consensus on the best shock to pair up with H&R springs? Should I get the HD or the Sport? Also, who has the lowest pricing?... currently seeing ~$735 quoted on HD. I want the best of both worlds... decent ride, but more planted than stock M030... also would like the set-up that would allow some track ability if I needed it... Also, I got a killer deal on the springs, so I am not even considering coilovers... don't want to start that debate again... I know that coilovers win...

Here is my info on springs and Sport shocks, you can get the shocks for $699 shipped from the guy on ebay, just do a search. Well I decided to bring her down a bit, I have had a set of Gemballa Lowering Springs (made by H&R) in my garage for the last year. Gert helped me with the all the parts needed, I purchased Bilstein Sport Shocks, Euro rear bumpstops, also upgraded stabilizer bars. After looking at the factory stabilizer bar up front, I really didn't see much of a difference in the upgraded one, and it didn't look like a simple project to remove and install the new bar. So I passed on the stabilizer bars since Im really only looking for a lower look and slightly better handling on the track. Since the 996 only sees 1-2 track days per year I decided not to do the full PSS9's. The shocks were about $700 and I had the springs already $300. The stabilizer bars will go back to the dealer, so bumpstops were only $10. I started with the front since that was supposed to be the most difficult. I did one side on my own, but needed help on the other side, the difficult part is removing the strut while pushing down and avoiding the fender. This took two sets of hands. I have a air compressor so that came in very handy. Front was actually not that difficult, the rear was fun to say the least. You have to jack up the shock to line it up to fit the bolt at the bottom. Well that wasn't easy, of course once we figured out the secret the 2nd one was easier. All in all it was about a 5 hour project. I used the instructions from a guy over on the Rennlist board. They came in very handy. The ride is perfect height, not to low, I would say it lowered it about 3/4 of inch, and I think it will settle a little lower after more driving. As far as handling I noticed that it was slightly tighter around corners, and over bumps. Also I noticed that when I punch it, it didn't raise up the front end as much as it did before. I will get the full affect of the ride after Thunderhill on the 9th. OK here are some before & after pics... Click pics for High Res Shots.. Before After Before (front) After (front) Before (rear) After (rear) After After

1. Remove the shorud on the trunk with a torx screwdriver. t-20 2. Loosen the 18mm sway bar bolt that is in strut and remove 3. Loosen and remove the nuts that connect abs wires and brake line so you can move the arm more up and down. You might have to take out the caliper off the hub. 4. remove the 3 13mm bolts from the top of the trunk that holds the strut to the body. 5. Push down the arm and the strut will be in the wheel well. 6. this is the hard part push down the strut and pull it towards you to pull out of the wheel well. Becareful not to hit your fender. You might need to remove the 18 mm blot that conects the cross arm in the front to the main A arm so the arm has more movement. I did not need to. 7. once cleared you can slide out the strut from the spindle assembly and prepare the new one. 8. Remove the 21mm nut on top of the strut. Becareful I used a impact air wrench and push your weight down so the spring dosenot pop up in your face. The stock spring are not that strong so you can do this. Pay attention to how it comes appart. Put all the necessary parts on the new strut( bumpstop washer housing) and assemeble back wards. The new springs are shorter so the assemble may not have any tension. 9. If your car has Xenon lights remove the little sensor nuts that is hook up to the A arm. This is in the driver side

All back together Rear 1. Remove the long 18mm bolt connecting the strut to the arm 2. Disconnect both sides of the sway bar. 17mm open end and 15mm nut the bar should swing easy on the mounts. 3.Use pry bar, screwdriver to force the shock of its mount. 4. Go in the car remove the pannel behind the rear seat. It has no clips. Or for the cab, lower the top so the lid is open, then release the two wires to lift the back of the top up, one wire on each side, you can then access the area where the top of the strut is 5. Remove the 3 15mm nuts to drop the strut. Once the strut is droped you can prepare the new one. It is similar to preparing the front. Use the new bump stops. The nut on top is 18MM.

6. install the strut back in the housing and don't tighten yet 7. place a jack under the shock to compress it so you can put it on the arm. It kind of hard. You need to be a little strong. Once on the arm the bolt wont align. Use a screw driver to lift up the shock just a little on the arm so you can push the bolt through. Once through assemble every thing back. In this pic I used spring compressors to tighten the springs down so we could get the bolt on Old & New bumpstops Thats about it.. Since the pics, the springs have settled a bit more

Kevin, Thanks for the write up! Anyone have a vote for HD's over sports? I am impartial. Everything I read says to go HD... any good reasons not to use sports when they are designed for lowering springs, and HD's are not? Thanks again!

I've a set of slightly used H&R coilvers, if you'll be interest ?

From a discussion with a technician at Bilstein USA he told me that the two shocks are the same valving. The difference is that the sport has a 15 MM shorter piston rod. It was designed to be used with the lowering springs. So I see no reason why the HD are better for a car using H&R springs.

Kevin M, Thanks for taking the time in posting the pictures and instruction of your install. Although the thread is few months old, I surely be using it to do the same suspension change next week.

No prob Mike, I'll be doing my friends Cab in a couple of weeks as well. Glad to help!

I quick question Kevin, I emailed Gert and asked him specifically if I need shorter bumpstops, and he said that old ones should be fine. Also, in H&R website, they have a chart of which springs needs shorter bumpstops, the 29513 springs don't require them. Why did you replace your's with shorter ones? TNX

My impression of the difference (and I am open to be told otherwise) is that the Sports are the same stiffness as the stock shocks, but are meant to go with lowering springs, whereas the HDs are stiffer but meant to go with the stock shocks. Because of this, people who want to "firm" up their ride usually go with the HDs since they can accommodate a 1" drop (despite the fact that it is the Sports that are supposed to go with the lowering springs). Caveat: I don't profess to have first-hand knowledge either way (just thought I'd pass along what I had heard regarding this in my own research).

jetskied and mightytaco have it 100% right. The Sport shocks have the same feel as the stock shocks, but are designed for shorter springs. The HD shocks are firmer than stock, but designed for stock springs. So, since a lot of people that swap the springs want a firmer feel, they go with the HD shocks. If you want a similar feel to stock, but with a little less body roll, go with the Sport shocks.

Thanks Guys!! That's what I'm really looking for, a little bit more on the stock ride zone.