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YOUR RESEARCHThe menaing of "Drive the car hard!"
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Run cars
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Suggestion
Lead additives were good for cleaning but make your choice and run the car happy to have fun.
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Suggestion
So pretty much doing what your mechanic advises would clean things up a bit.
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The way around this (if these things are just not within your comfort level or time constraints) is to change the oil about 2-3 times as often...
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Suggestion
Well i have never had to replace plugs either in my cars..
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I just got my oil changed at an indy. he told that I need to drive the car "hard" so condensation does not build up in the oil. I forgot to ask him what that meant. Does anyone knows what that means?
I have always ran my cars. And I have always had good luck with all the mechanicals of my engine.. To me it mean Rev it up a bit... Today all the way home from light to light I ran it to at least 6K rpm for the 1-2 shift. I wanst running 0-60 speed.. I wasnt rushing I was just letting it tach way up before I shifted
Means "Drive it like you stole it". No short shifts, down shifting before you make a corner at high revs. Kyle is right...our cars red line at 7000 RPMs. Get it up there once in a while.
Years ago my Dad used to call it "burning the carbon out" when he would jump on the gas in the Buick Electra 225.
part of the issue is you need to get the car up to a warm operating range. If the car never gets warm before you turn it off, you don't get a chance to burn any impurities out of the oil and you get the chance to collect more condensation in the oil instead. So.. how do you get it "hot enough"? - pay attention to the above posts
Avoid short trips when your Porsche won't get up to temperature. Take a longer route if necessary and occasionally get it out on the highway, and run it through the gears.
Not to hyjack But this brings up something that I have noticed with the car and op temp. In all other cars I have had, When sitting it traffic, if the car woudl start to warm up, you could actually bring the RPM up to about 3000.. I assumed becasue of the added water flow this would cool the car down.
With the 996 the opposite happens.. If you are in traffic and the temp climbs.. Running a little more RPM while sitting still only makes it hotter.... My car certainly has 2 op temps... One while driving at speed and one while sitting in traffic.
But when traffic starts to move, I have also notices that the 996 temp doesnt just drop like other cars I have had.. It actually takes a while before that temp will come back down.
Just a usless observation.
Flog the f@#$ing pi$$ of out of it for about 20 mins once in a while.
P.S. - Do so only on a stretch of desolate road or highway or even better your local track. Don't do anything stupid. Don't get caught, and have fun :P I'm not condoning violating any laws of the road, but if you ain't breakin' the law in a 911 you should probably be driving a Benz or a Lexus.
I could see the first part being the case with cars that have belt driven fans (do these exist anymore?) that would increase airflow through the radiator when the RPM increases. On cars with temperature controlled electric fans you are at the mercy of the electronics.
The delay in the cooling may be due simply to the stored heat in the engine and how long it takes for the cooler water from the radiators to begin doing its work of carrying away the excess heat.
all the above is silly.
You don't need to redline it or go wot all the time.
just make sure the oil temperature gets above 200, preferrably atleast 215. Gets some of the water out of the oil.
taking a 25 minute highway drive, and getting on it a few times should get the job done.
nothing crazy needed.
oh, and you can just as easily (if not more easily) break the law in a benz or lexus. What kind of comment is that?
Stupid move on my part this past weekend. Take the car out for a run on Sunday morning for about half an hour - get temps up to just above 185-190 or there about's. Come home, drive up on the pad's I built and push the oil pan under the sump and unscrew the oil bolt. So I'm wearing rubber gloves and the oil bolt is almost out, about on a tread or two to go when the oil just gushes out around the bolt, blows it out of my hand and oil goes all over my hand. Gee this is an interesting fact: if the temp gauge in the car says somewhere above 180 - gee the oil must be about the same temp's right?? HOLY F**K that hurt!! What a dumb a$$ move on my part. Just about melted the rubber gloves to my skin.
I'm used to doing the oil changes on a hoist where your out of the way and this was the first time I did it in my garage with the car only a few extra inches off the ground. So of course the world oil supply of 0W40 starts gushing out of the hole in the sump and into the catch oil pan. Oh, oh... man... it's still coming, and coming and coming...
Oh Christ, how many liters does this oil catch pan hold - was it eight liters or ten liters??? Just before the oil flow dropped off to a dribble the pan was almost filled up to within a 1/4 inch from the edge! Thank God, as the car was on the edge of my garage and the driveway slopes down to the street. Pictures of Greenpeace and David Suzuki picketing my house flash before my eyes.
Now I'm sliding the darn catch pan out from under the car at about a cm per minute so I don't spill any of it. I've gotta re-think the home P Car oil change system for the fall when I do it again. Must have gotten almost all of it out as I put 9 liters or so back into the beast - but I guess it's because I let it drain for an hour while I had a nice cigar and nursed my burns!! My right hand is still red today.
Upside to it all is that I cut the filter open (it had been in there since Sept 09 @ 4500Km's) and the filter was PERFECT - not one spec of anything or even any carbon. But no more hot oil treatments for me, gonna plan better and use my damn head next time. My hand right hand looks silly with no hair on it yet the left has hair... Strange looks from the girls in my office the next day.
Well i have never had to replace plugs either in my cars.. They were always a light brown color and barely worn... So I dont think it is all silly.... But... I do use oil.
my $.02
"Drive the car hard!" may be a little more than what you need to do...
lets just go with "Drive it"
what that means is dont thrash it, abuse or otherwise but dont pu$$yfoot around... warm it up, then DRIVE IT... put it thru the paces, rev it up, wind it out a bit... have some fun. Then cool it down and put it away. The water and contaminants in the oil are caused from the oil not getting hot enough to "boil" it out...Try and get a 1+ hour trip at freeway speeds at least once a ?month?
The way around this (if these things are just not within your comfort level or time constraints) is to change the oil about 2-3 times as often... That will have about the same results, but is less fun.
My car (both 99' and 86') see a good "sprint" everyday I drive them. If I get out and it doesnt smell a little... and I dont think... HMMMM maybe I better leave the E-brake off this time (concern of hot rotors and e-brake pads) Then I know the "next drive, I have my work (play
) cut out for me
Take a long trip once in a while. Not necessarily at highway speeds either. A nice drive on city streets will do it. If you can run with the A/C off cause if on the radiator fans run all the time and this works to keep the engine coolant temperature down.
What you want to hear is the radiator fans coming on. They come on at 212F and with the low pressure in the crankcase this will boil the water and unburned gas out of the oil.
It won't hurt the engine to see higher revs as long as its fully up to operating temperature, but there's no need to redline the engine every chance you get. My observations is the engine gets about as hot as it is going to get in traffic, stop and go, with low speed driving and lots of idling. As long as, as I mentioned above, as long as the A/C is off.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Just call him and ask him for some good entertainment. Then ask him if he'd like to be the blocker if it is road running he advises. If you have a mountain around it might supply the heat and enviroment for extended higher revs to blow moisure out of the crankcase.
I gotta add a fact most probably don't know. When it comes to piston travel the lower rpms vs higher has different attained heights the piston travels to during top dead center. It could be detrimental to the engine/rings if a car has build ups in the higher reachs if the car is primarily driven at lower rpms. So pretty much doing what your mechanic advises would clean things up a bit. Just getting the engine hot enough to remove water in the oil with out higher revs I think can lead to laquer build ups or such like will form at the upper reach of the piston ring travel. It's really best to live in germany and run the autobahn but eh. Lead additives were good for cleaning but make your choice and run the car happy to have fun.
2008 Mercedes-Benz S63 AMG vs 2000 Porsche 911 with fabspeed mods
Dropping it into 3rd on the hwy around 75 and walking away from the S63......thats driving it hard enough....not once but twice....driver was spotted punching dash in rear-view.
(empty hwy at 2am, other driver intiated....P-car driver finished it)
He probably saw that nasty sludge stuff on your oil filler cap and that tells you that you have been driving the car short distances--not enough to get up to good hot operating temperatures--necessary to boil out that moisture. That's all that is necessary.
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