Realistic price check please

03 Bose Sound System 97k miles 19" Turbo I wheels & Original 18" wheels Matching Silver Hardtop Wind Stop New tires all around ($1700) 90K service done It could use a new 2nd gear syncro, sale price adjusted. I bought it 4 years ago with it and it doesn't bother me or effect driving much, just have to down shift to 2nd a little slower than the other gears, up shifting has no issues. No other issues. Anyone have a link to what the 90k service should have covered? (edit: found that on renntech) How bad is it to replace the syncro, say once the trans is out etc. "While in there clutch replacement if not already?" It's an AZ car, and private party but has the price actually been adjusted?

My 79'SC had a bad 2nd gear synchro replaced in 1994 when I purchased it, and it was $1795 then to fix. What do you think your Porsche is worth?

I'm looking to buy this one, possibly. He's got it listed for $21k. With what I've read I'd be shooting towards $19k I have no problem dropping the trans myself, I also have a (GM albeit) trans guy who can help. I'm wondering if perts wise this adds up to more than a reman trans or the likes.

IF PPI shows no other issues, test drive, runs straight, no leaks. "clean carfax", Interior has no issues, have seller provide 90K service and all fluid/ filter changes up to date and fabric top and mechanism works, $19K is a decent price

19K with a bad trans??? If it requires a reman thats 10K.

Would not touch it until fully repaired or replaced with a transferable warranty on the work and parts. Some basic rules of Porsche ownership: Do not buy someone else's problem. (See my 924S 'project' car for an example) There are no cheap Porsches. (You either pay in the purchase or in the later repairs) Buy the best car you can afford. (Always heed this rule!)

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That's what has been explained to me as, "Porsche Math". It never ceases to amaze me. I think a car that has 90k + miles on it might be showing a little wear and tear. It's also is likely the car may need some work, but only potential Porsche buyers think a 10+ year old car with "higher" miles should be showroom condition.

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Your comment seems a bit disconnected from the problem this car has. A potentially bad transmission is not a cosmetic issue. The question has nothing to do with miles. I suspect that nothing less than a full transmission tear down would accurately diagnose the potential problem with this car. That expenditure would quickly wipe out any savings a buyer gained from the relatively higher miles on the car.

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IIRC, there's a 6spd manual on evilbay for $3k with warranty. If you could do the labor yourself, that wouldn't be too bad.

Or he could get the LSD version for: TRANSMISSION CPL G99630002007 - Genuine Porsche Price: $16,738.24 Description Known as: transmission with limited-slip differential Amazing how the parts cost as much as the car.

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I wasn't refering to cosmetic issues. And any car you buy with 90K + on it is "potentially" bad. Point is - the seller is being honest and leaving it to the buyer to choose to deal with the issues, or fix them on their dime, see "price adjusted".

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I'm guessing you work in the parts dept. I understand going to the stealership to buy parts isn't the most cost effective way of doing things. The same goes for the trans in my truck, $4k from the dealer or $1k for Hughes to rebuild it double the power capabilities. As a CPO isn't a luxury I can afford with Pcars (got it on all my Lexi's but it's yet to even break even for the additional cost so far it's 'piece of mind' and gotten me 2 batteries... I have to stick to what I can fix or have fixed. When I mentioned I had a trans guy he really is a trans guy. Engineered and built some super trans in his GM days. I was figuring there might be a 'kit' to replace most if not all of the wearable internals. As this could have lead to grinding, which the seller says it doesn't just wont go into 2nd until lower speeds it's possible a syncro replacement might remedy without too much work. I personally did the majority of the work on my truck including rebuilding 2 engines for others so I used to have the ability, that was 4 years ago, I might not perform as well now days. What I'm gathering is figure the trans shot. The seller has driven it this way for 4 years supposedly without issue, just not power shifting down, if he quick shifted at all. New trans is astronomical unless CPO then it's astronomical plus CPO but I would only pay the later. It's funny 10 years ago when I started looking for my Lightning this exact thing happened. Great truck bad trans, i moved on and found something even better, might ring true again. A quick poke on fleabay and there are questionable remans for $2k or pull outs for $1k (accident part outs most likely). I'm looking into renntech now and Pelican (my previous BMW weekly deliveries). Thanks for the input I'm going to look at it Saturday hopefully. Figuring a PPI is going to take a while as the nearest dealer is an hour from him. The potentially bad 90k+ cars are all I can afford as any 'low' milage they treat like gold, because it's still on it's first engine I guess.

On the bright side, if you're used to double clutching like me on the streets(I know I'm a freak), you might not have any issues. Or you can always change the tranny fluid with the good ole Synchromesh bandaid and see how far that gets you. It might buy you some time to save up.

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http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/2...nsmission.aspx http://www.californiamotorsports.net...0gearboxes.htm http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...nsmission.html Where does $10K come from again?

If your serious about the trans, pull the drain plug and reach inside with one finger for the magnet. If you pull out a bunch of gunk from the magnet, the trans is junk or soon will be.

It's "the only thing wrong with this car". According to the seller. He says he's driven it for 4 years with that syncro issue. My guess is it's either getting worse or he's perfectly capable of driving it that way. I've been searching on the IMS retrofit/upgrade as it would also probably be on the list, I'm kind of shocked people will just pony up nearly $1k for a bearing, just in case, but I too seem to be one of those that would. We'll see what the drive yields and PPI. Dealers have a few for that price in coupes though. Not in a hurry just like the looks of this one.

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Poke around some more, you'll be surprised at how many "low-mileage" cars are no longer on their original engine. Mine was replaced at 58,000, now has 67,000 on it. Many of the ones replaced were under warranty or under CPO warranty (like mine). Others were not which is a real bummer. I'd be more concerned with a very low-mileage car with original engine than a higher mileage one with the entire history or one with a newer engine so don't feel bad in that regard...That's just my own $.02 and not really a statement of researched fact... The low-mileage cars that are treated (and priced) like gold are in reality often ones without a single nick inside or rock chip outside and never see anything even approaching a cloudy sky and frankly are more museum piece than anything else. I drive mine year-round, it's in very good shape but I saw no value in paying more for a garage queen. It's not a collector's item, it never will be, no normal street 996 with this engine will be. Drive it and enjoy it, but you will have MUCH more joy if everything is functioning as originally intended. Hell, I would low-ball they guy and let him know you will wait for an answer until you either find a better car or he decides to let it go and then drop in that guaranteed used tranny which you can probably install yourself, worst case have someone swap it out while looking at the IMS, RMS, AOS and clutch at the same time...That entire cost I would factor into the lowball offer. Someone's gonna have to pay for it, why you?

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Funny I started doing exactly that, I upped my range out of the $20k ceiling and presto, a whole bunch of low milage 02+ Cab's and Tips started showing up. Mostly in Cali but at least there is a manual C2 at my Lexus dealer I can go and test drive (hope it has good trans etc) so I can get a feel. I also rebooked the Cab I'm looking at and in ok condition Edmunds says $18, not $24. So add the trans and we're at 20, why not look for one with half the miles for the same price I'da got there at some point I don't expect showroom condition, less so for under $20k. But as I'm learning it might be better to shop out of state during winter or be patient. I was mearly asking if $19k with the trans issue is realistic. BTW the IMS bearing and bolt were replaced at 60k on this, but not a new motor. So I might as well figure that being replaced while in the trans as well.

AZ, It wasn't directed at you. It was directed at comments about the car you posted. Why people expect a car to be perfect when it's 10 years old is crazy. I see no problem with people listing cars that need repairs that they themselves don't want to be bothered with. There ARE people out there that know how to fix things, not everyone that owns these cars is a "checkbook mechanic" and that should be considered when someone lists a car that isn't perfect. These cars become pretty much worthless if they've had a accident or major work done to them, especially if there is no documentation. It's sad because if you know what you're doing you can fix up a neglected car, but it's still worthless to the masses because unless you're a certified Porsche tech your work is worthless. (Unless it's on one of the coveted RS tribute cars) I'm in the process if getting my car ready for sale and I've dropped a couple grand getting wheels refinished and little odds and ends repaired just to make it perfect. The worst part is, someone will still try to find a way to work the price down because there's a piece of dirt in the wheel well.

GBoxes 2nd gear detent for $100 may solve your 2nd gear issue. Who knows..

Just drove a 02 C2 Cab manual at my Lexus dealer. There was oil on the maf/intake (appeared to be a small leak in the intake at some hose that plugged int) but it was a 66k mile car and they won't budge from $24.5k plus tax. Oh well it was a test drive. The clutch is unlike any of my prior manuals, it felt uber soft and not exactly defined. The shifter while ka clunking into gears seemed loose, like 5th and 6th were way too far out there. No grinding but I wasn't shifting all that hard as it was the first time in 5 years back in a stick. So I at least have something to compare this one to if I get the chance to get out there and see it this weekend. The one I drove was Seal gray, not a huge fan of that color, but with the hard top on it is actually pretty quiet, lot better than I thought it would be.

^^^ Erik the clutch and shifter should not feel like that, I would pass.

Yeah the dealership test drive was to get familiar with the Pcar nuances. It felt limp really. I couldn't tell where the clutch disengaged, it felt like 1 inch of peddle travel was all that was needed and I could slip the crap out of it, like a limo, there was no grab. Nothing that I expected out of a Pcar anyway. I';m used to being pinned in my seat, once rolling and in 2nd it would toss a little g to the butt dyno but I have to remember I'm coming from nearly 700 ft pounds of torque to 200 ish, but half the weight. Looks like wife/ Chiro appt isnt going to allow for the 03 Cab check out time. It might but probably wont. It's only buying time and money really. Didn't expect the upper engine to be oily though, around the maf etc, not from a dealer car. No Maint records after the 3rd year on that one either. It was always a pass, just a feeler. Dealer says they wont budge from $22K + Tax, so they will have it till May and will auction it. The shifter didn't have a gate as far as I could tell, it had general areas where it might go. Not talking about 1st/ whoops rev, but 5th /6th and down shifting going who knows where. I'm hoping to get out and actually look at this 996 in the OP, lots of add on stuff and the possibility to knock it down in $.

If that test car felt this bad, then maybe a 996 isn't what you should be after. The ahifter has a fairly close throw so the gear selection is not that far apart. The non turbo engine still has powe but it's mostly at the top end. If you are used to a 700ft/lb truck then a 996 will feel slow.