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YOUR RESEARCHCheap 'O' BMW side skirts on 996
Leading reported evidence
Install on my car
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I was just out in my garage looking at my aero kit components that are still sitting on the shelves, instead of being installed on my car.
Leading evidence: 'Install on my car' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'sprayer' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean overall look' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I forgot that I have a finger nail size chip on the taco tail and a 3 inch long crack on the bottom of the front bumper, that have to be repaired, prior to painting.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
sanding 1500/2500 wet and buffing orange peel (used system one pads and substrate) after screwing up the clear coat.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
The problem was I never color sanded before so I had to have someone fix (color sand) the tail because of orange peel and re-sand front just the clear and re-clear because of orange peel and this was due to the sprayer so if you decide to do it you can rent a decent one and shoot in one day.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I forgot that I have a finger nail size chip on the taco tail and a 3 inch long crack on the bottom of the front bumper, that have to be repaired, prior to painting.
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Suggestion
The other guys to talk to are EvoMS, they used to resell the VF kit(specifically the older one using the same blower you're running) and they should be able to help you source the intake and any other tubing you might need.
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Suggestion
They've produced kits with the crankcase oiled V2 blowers as well, I could almost guarantee that you'd be able to replicate a tested design if nothing else.
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sprayer
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Identified cause
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Suspected cause · Original poster
The problem was I never color sanded before so I had to have someone fix (color sand) the tail because of orange peel and re-sand front just the clear and re-clear because of orange peel and this was due to the sprayer so if you decide to do it you can rent a decent one and shoot in one day.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
43 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T172408Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Well I have been trying to finish the body kit on my car which is RUF but when it came to the side skirts I just could not bring myself to spend $1100 bucks for sides so adapt or die I say and did like the 2007 335i BMW sides which had a side center line that was not to distracting that carried nicely to the back lower bumper and for $65 bucks
used I gave it a try. Sorry for phone camera pics I need to try pictures with the proper light and camera and is not well documented.
1. cut to proper height/length=band saw
2. use stock mud flaps and cut to fit sides as rear mounting assy.
3. cut front mounting pieces for front that where left over from cutting down length.
4. Glued using 2 part plastic fusion glue from ace hardware. Sanded for appearance.
5. primer/paint and clear coat (SEM and PPG paint clearcoat)
6. sanding 1500/2500 wet and buffing orange peel (used system one pads and substrate) after screwing up the clear coat.
7. mounting using screws and two sided mounting tape from checker auto made for molding.
I will take some decent pictures of finished sides when my back stops hurting from the buff job which I will try to post in concours section using the system one.
Mother, that is an amazing DIY. The side skirts look fantastic with the RUF bumper and tail. I was just out in my garage looking at my aero kit components that are still sitting on the shelves, instead of being installed on my car. Too many other projects. Here is my latest that is currently for sale on ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...%3AMESELX%3AIT
How did your engine turn out? Did you ever reinstall the Supercharger? Thanks for sharing.
MFletch,
Thanks and was fun to do. It's hard to keep focused with one car yet as many as you have going on KUDO's and nice find on the BMW it's rare find with so little damage, I ended up back tracking some getting a different 3rd radiator and reservoir installed up front for the SC since the new front bumper was going on. The SC is mothballed until I get back from taking a trip to Utah in a month or so which should put me at 4000 miles on new rebuilt engine, but wondering if I should fix the AC first I have a leak somewhere? we will see where my method of madness lies.
prsdoc,
Thanks just wish I could paint better.
[QUOTE=Mfletch;6882502]Mother, that is an amazing DIY. The side skirts look fantastic with the RUF bumper and tail. I was just out in my garage looking at my aero kit components that are still sitting on the shelves, instead of being installed on my car. Too many other projects.
want to sell the aero kit?
OK, it was not that much fun
But pickup the sides skirts and I will teach you how to fish.
It is the paint that costs which I had some spare, but usually around $80 bucks a quart just for the base and around the same for the clear. I think if I was not so suborn I would have had someone else paint them. In the BMW world there seems to be allot of people upgrading to the M Series sides so the stocks are pretty easy to find. The 2008-9 series sides look nice also, but protrude more with a sharper line going down the sides.
Good job. Take advantage where you can. The 996 benefits significantly from that sort of thing. A plain jane 996 looks very plain. With some materials and skill, it dresses up nicely.
Edgy01,
I agree some like the car stock and some not the stock front never inspired me of a well planted car at higher speeds especially with no weight up front. The sides not being as critical, different types of changes can be done to them to give a nice connection from front to back.
Meister,
Thanks, also the faster you go people have less time to scrutinize the car and did notice in the right conditions my car turns into a pumpkin.
Tim,
Any self respecting DIY on cars knows that you can only swap German parts for German parts and Japanese parts for Japanese parts and remain true to the flag.
Thanks LJ
Thanks dan.
Here is a link to the system one so so detail job I did, I posted if your are interested.
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/d...lish-buff.html
Mfletch,
I know you could ... but should you
not trying to be to cynical here. I did paint all three pieces front, sides and tail using a cheapo harbor freight sprayer, but real good paint (PPG), clear and primer (SEM buildup). You may have some other complications regarding your paint I think it is not a straight flat color "is it metallic"? if not your good to go or call someone that sells PPG and they can match your color and tell you how it is applied.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44677
(I can send you my sprayer if you want to try PM me if you are up to sanding allot)
The problem was I never color sanded before so I had to have someone fix (color sand) the tail because of orange peel and re-sand front just the clear and re-clear because of orange peel and this was due to the sprayer so if you decide to do it you can rent a decent one and shoot in one day. Payoff I can color sand now.
There is another alternative, if doing again and that is to do the prep myself getting the parts as close to perfect for paint using SEM build up primer and find some capable painters with equipment the cost should be greatly reduced.
RUF tail comes with decklid so required more paint almost full quart
Paint 2 quarts for all 4 pieces
Clear/hardner 2 quarts for all 4 pieces
5 cans SEM primer
Also practice on some sample pieces of something similar to get used to the gun.
You should get 5 or more coats easy of base coat and clear with plenty of extra touch-up left. One plus is you know the quality of the paint is top notch and coats are plenty.
Forgot to mention that if you have to color sand then you will need to have a buffer take out the 2500 wet sand paper marks which with your projects I would think you already have something that works for ya. If not back to the store ya go....
or following this link for some hints it's at the other board since I can post more pics there.
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/d...lish-buff.html
Hope this helps
Mother, you probably gave me the correct answer in the first sentence. I have a Craftsman sprayer (thanks for the offer on your's) and a Porter Cable buffer. It is the skill to use them, that I am lacking. Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. You did a great job on your's. I forgot that I have a finger nail size chip on the taco tail and a 3 inch long crack on the bottom of the front bumper, that have to be repaired, prior to painting. My paint is metallic, so that probably further complicates things. I guess I will be patient and have it done right, by someone that knows what they are doing.
Thanks again.
Thanks Redridge,
It was more of an educated guess because I took measurements at the BMW dealer and looked at them close-up. For the price that was paid I could have tossed them without to much heartache. I got the idea from someone that built them from scratch for his 997 and it was immense amount of work and figured there had to be an easier way to get similar results.
haha... i used to be deep into H-A's (building race spec engines & jdm stuff, not ground effects and stickers). this post brought me back to those days of (i wonder if we could make this work... "
Mother, you know I love the RUF stuff. Great idea on the skirts, good job getting out the peel, really clean overall look on the car. Of course if you want to go just a little further, drop Eric over at bumperplugs a line and pick up a black doorplug for the keyhole. (Thought I'd share a little of my OCD!)
You've inspired me to buy a nice HVLP and try painting something.
I'm on the blackberry today so my apologies if I missed this, but how did everything go with the motor/SC etc?
Best,
Hans
Thanks,
Will do on key cover... little touches can make a big difference, but there is a drawback I have to unlock and lock the car once a week
I have enjoyed the simplicity of the RUF kits since they started making them and you have good taste. I will be installing the SC back on when it gets cooler in a month or two here in Phx, Az and update the SC thread. I am a little nervous I hope FVD is still around to finish my tune. I will have to let AAA know when I going to do this also since they will probably see more of me.
I did redesign the reservoir and install the stock pcar third rad upfront to fit the RUF front and have also been trying to think of a way of redoing my intake to the SC, but have come up empty especially when trying to do it in plastic/polyethylene for a reasonable price.
I really wish I knew how to play with at least basic trim settings in motronic, relying on all these third parties can be scary I agree. FVD should be OK in the fatherland no? Are you worried about their US presence?
Is your charger the same as the newer Vf Engineering kits? (I think they are the self oiled SQ Vortech). If so have you thought of buying the intake parts from them and cutting to fit? I saw a whole kit for sale in your area cheapish (hopefully it isn't yours!)
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/for/1372241222.html
Maybe he can part out the intake or give you some notes.
Mother - OT but I used a - **** you not - toilet/sewage rubber reducer (4" - 3") from Home Depot (that connects to the intake side of the SC) and 2 - 90 degree 4 inch PVC elbows for my Vortech intake.
I had to shorten the flange on both elbows that would butt together to make the radius I needed to make 180 degrees for the intake.
Looking at yours, if you used a 3" to 3 1/2" elbow, the radius might make it.
Mine was pretty slick inside so turbulence was minimal and boost increased.
Love to see the fabrication you put into it if you have any pics.
FVD stopped doing custom tunes from my understanding especially when so many where dropping 3.4 engs in there boxsters with little understanding of what they where doing so they lost money can't blame them. Since I was one of the first SC customs that they did they said I was safe and would finish the tune but that was from FVD USA, I beleive my tuned files go directly to germany via the internet where they do there magic on my data readings. The one on cragslist is not mine the one I used is a SQ V2 with the drain to the crankcase, but for the price he's asking it's not bad. Vortech will not sell the intake last I checked.
Tippy,
I tried the PVC hence the bad welding job, as I recall the larger "outside dia" of the PVC did not work because it would not fit without hitting the rear frame of the car. Here is a drawing of the room from SC to rear frame of car which is 3.25 in. If I could find some thin walled high temp polyeth/abs I could try filling with sand and heating and bending, The whole project is pretty much fabbed which part you talking about regarding pics?
Well I doubt Vortech even makes an intake for our application, however I would give the guys at VF Engineering a call. They are the guys who make the kit (as pictured in the ad I linked), basically bundling the intake and the front rad and the tubing and the tune and injectors with different Vortech chargers/coolers. They were very open when I spoke to them last, and while I decided against the S/C they do seem like good enough guys, they might just sell you an intake if thats what you want. They've produced kits with the crankcase oiled V2 blowers as well, I could almost guarantee that you'd be able to replicate a tested design if nothing else. I can't remember the owner's name off the top of my head, but call up wit some technical questions about their kits and you'll get over to his desk.
VF-Engineering
1365 North Dynamics Street, Suite E Anaheim, California 92806
tel.: (+1) [phone removed]
fax: (+1) [phone removed]
sales @ vf-engineering.com
technical @ vf-engineering.com
accounts @ vf-engineering.com
The other guys to talk to are EvoMS, they used to resell the VF kit(specifically the older one using the same blower you're running) and they should be able to help you source the intake and any other tubing you might need.
The only way to get one from VF is to order the whole kit..they where not very helpful same as Evom's. I can always use the one I have to complete the tune.
Oh OK I didn't realize you'd been so far down that road. Well if the one you've got works then nothing to worry about right?
Does FVD include some good dyno time in their tune price?
The car is dyno-ed on the road in real time... WOT readings cruising, idle, gear shifts uphill and down etc for me the best all around tune is what I am after. I record on my laptop the data runs which are usually around 1/2 to 1 hour.
