my P didn't make it into 2009.....:mad:

Wanted to drive my kid to a party...started the P and it sounded kind of ****ty..but then again it is a bit cold (for socal standards). Looked up directions and saw that the check engine light was on....stopped and started the car again....but still the light stayed on. Any suggestions?? Or can this be anything??? I have a feeling the P is not running on all cyl....but am not sure.. manual says it can be engine managment system.... Happy New year now 2009 has to be better!!

Nicolaas - sorry to hear about the problems - do you have a code reader? If not, try taking it along to a branch of Autozone and get them to read the codes. Once we have the codes we should be able to figure something out. Do you smell unburned gasoline? The rough sounding engine and the smell of gas would be an indicator of bad oxygen sensors... then again if the car hasn't run for a while it may just be a transitory thing. Here's one I have never seen before - I was behind a badly polluting truck a couple of days ago in my Acura - As soon as we came to a stop light and I (and my car) was forced to breathe in the junk it was sprewing out my check engine/emission system failure light came on - the truck caused it! I got home, checked the codes, reset the computer and all has been well.... it's funny what can temporarily cause a check engine light. My buddy had a similar spurious check engine light a couple of months ago - I told him to disconnect the batter for 10 mins and try again - all was well after that. You might want to start by trying the same thing.

i recently changed the battery and haven't used the car after....so maybe I am lucky...guess I have to wait till the 2nd to find out Do you have the brand name for a code reader or do they all work?? thanks and happy New Year

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I'll keep my fingers crossed that you got lucky and the code went away. There are many available and for you can pay a little or a lot, but as long as it's an OBDII reader you'll be fine. I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9135-...0781488&sr=8-3 Because it can read and clear the codes. Having one off these around is a great investment as it allows you to do research and get an idea of the problem before a dealer goes crazy trying to charge diagnostic fees, etc. It's always nicer to be able to know what the problem is and fix it yourself, or walk into the shop and tell them what you know, rather than just hand them your wallet. Good luck and happy new year! Isn't this your first year at home with the baby? Having kids around changes the holidays... hence the reason I'm sitting here at the computer on new years eve!

Nicolaas. Sorry to hear about the problem with the car. I certainly hope it is nothing serious. Have a great New Year!

Hopefully you just lost a coil pack.

Duremetric is the code reader of choice for the Porsche. That being said, I had a car chip before I got the 996 and it works well but it reads the OBD II Codes instead of the internal Porsche codes. For basic diagnostics though it works well. Hope this helps,

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Coil failure can be disconcerting. Very rough running, sounds flat, and can have a strong exhaust smell. Is there any smoke?

Removing battery caused engine controller to lose its learned fuel/ignition maps. Upon restart and if weather/climate conditions changed since engine last run coupled with an engine that may require adjustments/trims that are a bit away from the adjustments/trims it had when new then upon first restart after new battery installed engine can run rough and could set check engine light. Just a chance though the symptom could portend something serious, much more serious. I would hate to advise you to start engine and let it idle a bit and see if behavior doesn't improve and then to drive car and give engine controller time to adapt to engine's needs. If you buy code reader and after reading and writing down codes then clear error codes you'll erase not only error code(s) but also clear long term fuel trims and other learned stuff. Upon a cold restart engine could misbehave again if as I touched upon above if it's current requirements while still in tolerance are considerably different from what they were when engine new. If you get a code reader, get one that also allows you to view and capture OBD II parameter info data, like (in this context) long term fuel trims. If after you clear the check engine light and erase error codes and these are reset back to 0 and then after driving you see one or both creep up to say 6 or 8 (or down to -6 or -8) this is getting close to the max +/- 10 (%) adjustment available. If engine controller has to go beyond this amount it will set an error code and turn on check engine light. Then the reason for this needs to be diagnosed and addressed. Sincerely, Macster.

damn.....soo much great info!! I will get a code reader tomorrow and hopefully it is going to be my lucky day....if not....the P looks very nice on my drive way. I haven't been driving it for the longest time and I guess (hope, pray!!) this and the dead battery change might be the problem. I'll keep you guys posted About the smoke...there was some smoke..but then again it way cold and humid and night....so it could have been normal. keeping my fingers crossed!!

Could be a bad MAF. Is your intake stock or aftermarket (i.e K&N snorkel)?

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If you want any hope of getting closer to cause of symptom working on your own a code reader/data viewer is required. Post codes (and freeze frame data) and if necessary other parameter info data (long term trims, etc.) as well. Might be battery change and inactivity just coincidence and something else -- not too serious -- is at root of problem. MAF has been mentioned and these due fail. Should be able to disconnect MAF at wiring harness and start/run engine. If symptoms no longer present, MAF. Another thought: If car has been sitting a ong time unused -- and I don't know what this time is in your car's case -- but anyhow if unused a long time it could have suffered a rodent infestation and these gnawing creatures can play heck with wiring harness and all sorts of problems arise from this. Or it may be something serious. (However, if mice for instance just wait until you price cost of new wiring harness and you'll know what not so serious can cost.) Sincerely, Macster.

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If you're around San Diego area I have a code reader you can use - let me know via PM. If you're up in LA and don't want to travel - I'd point you to your nearest Harbor Freight store to pick up one of these code readers: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94217 Chris.

Nick, I had a similar problem a few years ago, it only really occurred on cold mornings (let's say below 60F). Very rough running on start up (misfire, stalling, etc.) I couldn't diagnose the problem until I took the airbox off then it was immediately apparent....the oil filler tube (the bellows part) had a crack in it. Since this is under vacuum in normal conditions the leak seriously affected the engine. My car is a 99 so it was maybe 7 years old at the time. Replaced the filler tube and problem solved. Hope this helps, Keith

thanks guys for all the replies...and yes I got a K&N air filter, will change this back to the original and will get a code reader.... thanks for the offer cdodkin..I live in huntington Beach about 100 miles from you and with the P running this would have been a great reason for a drive! But now I got to first find the problem. Rodents is out of the question..... all cables look good....crack somewhere in cable is possible. I am glad to read that you guys don't think the worst like I did..which was engine failure!! I'll take a picture of the code reader and will post it asap. Happy Newyear (and even better if the problem is minor!)

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with oil very likely. In this case a proper cleaning of the MAF would be called for. In fact, I'd attempt to use a lint free towel with some electronics cleaner sprayed on it to wipe out filter air box and as much of the air intake system between filter and MAF as you can reach/get to. You might even consider pulling throttle body off and cleaning it too. Of you can just replace stock filter and clear codes (and along with it other stuff too) and then drive car and see what symptoms turn up. Rodent damage is usually not real apparent. They like to get into areas that are very confining. But the presence of rodents is pretty easy. Vacuum car cabin and trunks out using a vacuum cleaner with a new filter bag or a shop vac with its insides empty and wiped clean. After vacuuming dump contents of vacuum out on white paper. A length of butcher paper works. Look for rodent hairs and droppings. If you spot these signs car has suffered an infestation of rodent. If more than just a cursory walk through by some rodent shopping for a home there is very likely a nest in car and somewhere wiring has been chewed. Sincerely, Macster.

I can vouch for the Harbor Freight code reader mentioned above by cdodkin, it works great at reading codes, but mine doesn't erase airbag lights. You can't beat it for cost. GL Nick.

We used to have an entire shelf dedicate to blown MAF's from K&N snorkel's. If it's blown, it won't matter if you put the stock intake back on, you'll still need a new MAF. Trying to "clean" the old one is a complete waste of time. Easy fix though, will be good as new if that's what it turns out to be. Please keep us posted.

Take a step back boys. It's a little irrational to blame the K&N unless it has been freshly oiled, which in this case it has not. There is no reason to believe that a filter that has been performing well will suddenly decide to vomit oil onto the MAF. Let's just sit back and wait for the codes rather than second guessing until we're blue in the face.

That's not what I said. We've seen a lot (as in dozens) of cars who over time using a variety of aftermarket oiled intakes have eventual problems with the MAF such that it needs to be replaced freshly oiled snorkel or not. The MAF on these cars were designed to use a dry intake and so are very very sensitive to the oiled ones K&N or othewise. Have you ever seen a blown MAF next to a good one? They look identical save for perhaps a very fine layer of oil accumulated over time until it's past the sensitivity tipping point. This has been the experience of other shops we know also. The symptoms described are exactly as what I've seen 1st hand which is why my blue face second guess (the 1st one I might add) confirmed he's running a K&N airfilter. But I agree...it's nothing but a guess until the codes are known. I would also add that not one owner after experiencing this failure put their snorkel back on and instead went back to the stock intake.

As many have posted, it's hard to tell without a code. But being humid and cold sounds like it could easily be something as simple as a coil pack.

Without the fault code(s) everything here is a guess.

My car ran just fine with a failed MAF, no matter the temperature.....just always had a CEL. With a blown MAF, the idle was always fine and it pulled as high as 27 MPG one tank.

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Yup, same here. You fixed your engine yet?

Okay just gotten a reader (129 bucks+tax)... the only error it gave was p 0704..when I looked it up it said clutch switch...does this make any sense?? i replaced the K&N filter (which was very dirty) with the new OEM filter) After clearing the error..the check engine light is still on. BUT the car runs normal....sound is great...it drove normal (around the block) does this above make any sense...and how do I get the engine light turn off??

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Glad to hear that the car is running well. I've not come across 0704 before. You might drop Firehawk99 a PM to get his opinion, but I'm guessing this will mean a trip to the shop to get the switch fixed.

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Wayne, he said the 704 was a clutch switch.... Nicolaas' car is a Tip. Maybe the Tip shifter switch is bad or acting up. If you ask me, the car is tired of being a Tip and wants a sex change operation so it can be a MANual! Nicolaas sorry, I just couldn't pass that one up!

check engine light stays on...so I guess i got to have it checked out. I get no error codes though.....how is this possible? I think of returning the code reader, since all messages about emmission etc say n/a or is this because of the code reset? I am getting tired of the P.O.S.che...maybe it is time to trade it in for an accord coupe ex-l.svl/POS and I probably get some money back!!LOL

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Nice dig! I'd forgotten that the car was a tip, but Nicolaas' reading of the code was the same one that I found from a quick search. I don't understand why he's getting the code, even though the car is driving okay.... makes no sense for the car to be shifting fine when driven, but giving a clutch error code... actually, it surprises me that the clutch switch comes up as a power train error at all. Maybe the clutch that it is referring to is a different one than the one we're envisioning.

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It is a long process and takes more money than I care to spend at the moment. But, I split the cases during Christmas and was surprised at how good the internals looked - I should of just put new valves in and carried on. It will be a long time before I get back on the road.......the A6 DD is just so lame.....bluah.....but it has a kick@$$ Bose system so I manage.....<sigh>

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Nice Tim! It didn't even dawn on me until you brought that up..... Me too.....hehe

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Glad to hear that it's not looking as bad as you feared. I'll keep my fingers crossed that you get it up and running this year.

Sure that reader isn't showing P0104?

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Me too.....

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If you think the A6 is lame..... try an Accord! If an Accord was your DD, you would have already repaired your Porsche engine by now..... believe me!

Try resetting the CEL again - I suspect you didn't clear it last time around - hence it's still on even though the code is no longer there

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This one is not too shabby.... Tim, is this your Accord????

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nope it was 0704 I guess I have to spend money to find out what is wrong with my driveway queen...that is what you get when you don't drive it and don't put it in the garage....my poor former pride! my new pride and joy is going to get a sister in a couple of weeks..... which will make my P-car no. ??? ah well it has been fun for about 3 years! luckily gas prices went WAY down and my pimp mobile (escalade) no only cost me about 35 bucks to fill up (with the cheapest 87 fuel I can find!!)

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I only wish mine looked that sporty!

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Nah, that's not Tim's car - I don't see and ground-effects :d

Are there any special cables required for this code reader to adapt to a 99 C2? Where on the car do you physically hook it up? I "think" i recall seeing a connector at the fuse panel, but not in front of the car at the moment. On mine, I was driving home last night, stopped on an on-ramp metering deal with traffic when the car started to idle really rough. With all of the traffic, I couldn't hear if it was making any obvious noises. About a mionuite or so later, the check engine light came on. I was in pretty solid traffic, but could tell the engine was running "off." No overheating, oil pressure was normal. Once it thinned out a bit and I got up to speed, the engine would acclerate, but felt lower onpower, and had a lot of shuddering on acceleration. Couldn't see anything obvious coming out of the tailpipes in the rear view, but it was dark. Off acceleration, i.e. no load cruising or decel was fine, smooth, couldn't feel any vibration at all. Once home, I listened to the engine idle for a moment, again dark so I couldn't see much. Sounded like a slight rattle, but not sure if that was due to the engine roughness causing something else to wiggle/vibrate, or the engine itself. Frustrated, I shut it off and drove the other vehicle in today (which is no fun at all....). Car has 92k miles on it. Sound familiar? Mark

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There is an interface cable that comes with the code reader - it fits an industry standard OBD port on the 996, which is located below the steering column (again an industry standard location in the car) Here's a shot of the same port on a 987 No special cable required for a 99 - my wife's 986 is a 99 and it works just fine. Read the codes with the ignition ON but with the engine not running - and then we'll have an idea of what's up.

I use the following code list for diagnosis: CEL Codes - Porsche P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor - Signal Implausible P0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor - Below Lower Limit P0103 Mass Air Flow Sensor - Above Upper Limit P0112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Below Lower Limit P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Above Upper Limit P0115 Engine Temperature Sensor - Signal Implausible P0117 Engine Temperature Sensor - Below Lower Limit P0118 Engine Temperature Sensor - Above Upper Limit P0122 Throttle Position Sensor - Below Lower Limit P0123 Throttle Position Sensor - Above Upper Limit P0130 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Intercore Short Circuit or Limited P0131 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Signal Wire Short Circuit to P0132 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Short Circuit to B+ P0133 Aging of Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Below Lower Limit P0134 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Interruption of Signal P0136 Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1-3) - Intercore Short Circuit P0137 Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Signal Wire Short Circuit to Ground or Incorrect P0138 Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Short Circuit to B+ P0139 Aging of Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) P0140 Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (cylinders 1 - 3) - Interruption of Signal P0150 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Intercore Short Circuit or Limited P0151 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Signal Wire Short Circuit to P0152 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Short Circuit to B+ P0153 Aging of Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Below Lower Limit P0154 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Interruption of Signal P0156 Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Intercore Short Circuit P0157 Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Signal Wire Short Circuit to Ground or In - P0158 Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 61 - Short Circuit to B+ P0159 Aging of Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) P0160 Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Interruption of Signal P0197 Oil Temperature Sensor - Short Circuit to Ground P0198 Oil Temperature Sensor - Short Circuit to B+ P0300 Misfire Damaging to Catalytic Converter P0301 Misfire, Cylinder 1, Damaging to Catalytic Converter P0302 Misfire, Cylinder 2, Damaging to Catalytic Converter P0303 Misfire, Cylinder 3, Damaging to Catalytic Converter P0304 Misfire, Cylinder 4, Damaging to Catalytic Converter P0305 Misfire, Cylinder 5, Damaging to Catalytic Converter P0306 Misfire, Cylinder 6, Damaging to Catalytic Converter P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor - Not in Specified Range P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor 1 - Signal Implausible, Short to Ground, Short to B+ P0410 Secondary Air Injection System - Signal Implausible (Cylinders 1 - 3) P0420 Catalytic Converter Conversion Too Low (Cylinders 1 - 3) P0430 Catalytic Converter Conversion Too Low (Cylinders 4 - 6) P0440 Fuel Tank Ventilation System - Above Limit P0441 Fuel Tank Ventilation System - Above Limit P0442 Fuel Tank Ventilation System (Micro-leak) - Below Lower Limit P0444 EVAP Canister Purge Valve - Open Circuit P0445 EVAP Canister Purge Valve - Short to B+/Short to Ground P0446 EVAP Canister Shutoff Valve (Function) - Below Lower Limit P0447 EVAP Canister Shutoff Valve (Output Stage) - Open Circuit P0448 EVAP Canister Shutoff Valve (Output Stage) - Short to B+/Short to Ground P0450 Tank Pressure Sensor - Signal Implausible P0452 Tank Pressure Sensor - Short to Ground P0453 Tank Pressure Sensor - Short to B+ P0455 Fuel Tank Ventilation System (Major Leak) - Below Lower Limit P0501 Vehicle Speed - Not in Specified Range P0506 Idle Air Control - Idle Speed Too Low P0507 Idle Air Control - Idle Speed Too High P0600 CAN Time-out - Signal Implausible P0603 ECM Faulty P0604 ECM Faulty P0605 ECM Faulty P1102 Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 Ahead of Catalytic Converter - Above Upper Limit P1105 Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 After Catalytic Converter - Above Upper Limit P1107 Oxygen Sensor Heating 2 Ahead of Catalytic Converter - Above Upper P1110 Oxygen Sensor Heating 2 After Catalytic Converter - Above Upper Limit P1115 Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 After Catalytic Converter - Above Upper Limit P1117 Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 After Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit P1119 Oxygen Sensor Heating 2 Ahead of Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit P1121 Oxygen Sensor Heating 2 After Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit P1123 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Lean Threshold P1124 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold P1125 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Lean Threshold P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold P1127 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Lean Threshold P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold P1129 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Lean Threshold P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold P1140 Load Sensing - Signal Implausible P1157 Engine Compartment Temperature Sensor - Short Circuit to Ground P1158 Engine Compartment Temperature Sensor - Short Circuit to B+ P1213 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 1 - Short to B+ P1214 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 2 - Short to B+ P1215 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 3 - Short to B+ P1216 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 4 - Short to B+ P1217 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 5 - Short to B+ P1218 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 6 - Short to B+ P1225 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 1 - Short to Ground P1226 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 2 - Short to Ground P1227 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 3 - Short to Ground P1228 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 4 - Short to Ground P1229 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 5 - Short to Ground P1230 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 6 - Short to Ground P1237 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 1 - Open Circuit P1238 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 2 - Open Circuit P1239 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 3 - Open Circuit P1240 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 4 - Open Circuit P1241 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 5 - Open Circuit P1242 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 6 - Open Circuit P1265 Airbag Signal - Signal Implausible P1275 Aging of Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Below Lower Limit P1276 Aging of Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Below Lower Limit P1313 Misfire, Cylinder 1, Emission Relevant P1314 Misfire, Cylinder 2, Emission Relevant P1315 Misfire, Cylinder 3, Emission Relevant P1316 Misfire, Cylinder 4, Emission Relevant P1317 Misfire, Cylinder 5, Emission Relevant P1318 Misfire, Cylinder 6, Emission Relevant P1319 Misfire, Emission Relevant P1324 Timing Chain out of Position, Bank 2 - Below (or Above) Lower Limit P1340 Timing Chain out of Position, Bank 1 - Below (or Above) Lower Limit P1384 Knock Sensor 1 - Signal Implausible P1385 Knock Sensor 2 - Signal Implausible P1386 Knock Control Test Pulse - Signal Implausible P1397 Camshaft Position Sensor 2 - Signal Implausible, Short to Ground, Short to B+ P1411 Secondary Air Injection System - Signal Implausible (Cylinders 4 - 6) P1455 A/C Compressor Control - Open Circuit P1456 A/C Compressor Control - Above Upper Limit P1457 A/C Compressor Control - Below Lower Limit P1501 Fuel Pump Relay Output Stage - Short Circuit to Ground P1502 Fuel Pump Relay Output Stage - Short Circuit to B+ P1510 Idle Air Control Valve Opening Coil - Above Upper Limit P1512 Intake Manifold Switchover 1 (Output Stage) - Short to B+ P1513 Idle Air Control Valve Opening Coil - Below Lower Limit P1514 Idle Air Control Valve Opening Coil - Open Circuit P1515 Intake Manifold Switchover 1 (Output Stage) - Short to Ground P1516 Intake Manifold Switchover 1 (Output Stage) - Open Circuit P1524 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2 P1530 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 P1531 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 P1539 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2 P1541 Fuel Pump Relay Output Stage - Open Circuit P1551 Idle Air Control Valve Closing Coil - Open Circuit P1552 Idle Air Control Valve Closing Coil - Below Lower Limit P1553 Idle Air Control Valve Closing Coil - Above Upper Limit P1570 Immobilizer - Implausible Operating Range P1571 Immobilizer - Open Circuit / No Signal P1585 Misfire with Empty Fuel Tank P1600 Voltage Supply - Signal Implausible (or Below Lower Limit) P1601 Voltage Supply - Above Upper Limit P1602 Voltage Supply - Open Circuit P1640 ECM Faulty P1671 Engine Compartment Purge Fan Output Stage - Open Circuit (or Short Circuit to Ground or Short Circuit to B+) P1673 Fan Output Stage - Open Circuit (or Short Circuit to Ground or Short Circuit to B+) P1689 ECM Faulty P1691 Check Engine Malfunction Indication Light (MIL) - Open Circuit P1692 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) - short Circuit to Ground P1693 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) - Short Circuit to B+ P1782 Engine Engagement / Nominal Engine Torque - Short Circuit to Ground

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Muhahaha Ray, subtract 10 years and you got my A6........not very sporty or nice looking. But, it has cool blue leather and a decent Bose system Ohhhh, that was below the belt....

The power of the internet, paired with the gracious sharing of knowledge is truly one of the best things we have in our possession today. Thank you, folks, for pointing me in the right direction. Bought a very well equipped OBDII reader yesterday from Autozone, has more capability than I'll probably ever need, but I am notorious for buying things twice (buy the cheap thing first, then realize I want the better one and end up paying twice for the same thing. Character flaw.). Active code P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Pending Code P1317 Cylinder 5 Misfire No other codes. Coil pack? Car had new plugs installed 5k miles ago. Came on somewhat abruptly so I'd guess a component failure rather than a natural "wear" of a part? Cheers, Mark

Oh, and by the way, how the heck do you swap these things out? I had a independent shop do the plugs, so I have never actually seen the damn things, nor the coils! Done from underneath? PITA, or not so hard? Did a quick search but didn't see any pic's, etc. Thanks! Mark

Damn Newbies!!!!! Ahem! < Tim clears his throat > Mark, NO WAY ARE YOU GETTING ANY PICS FOR THIS DIY!!! The "statute of limitations" has run out on you from a pics perspective. On 10-17-2008, you promised us that you would post some pics. Well, you have 6 posts and we have seen NO PICS of your car!!!! < Tim thinks to himself "I'll bet Mark didn't think anyone kept records of this stuff." > So no pics from you.... no pics or help from us!

The coils sit on top of those black holes spewing oil. You can probably just use a 5mm allen wrench. The mini ratchet is from northerntool, the knurled bit driver is from sears. Us newbs have to stick together.

I'm with Tim....

Inexcusable. Irresponsible. Downright rude, and completely unnacceptable. I suck. Here's a couple quick shots, the wheels look horrible but it is mainly due to the lighting and anodizing of the Kinesis centers, they actually look better in person, but powder coat next time! Also not happy with the rotor rust, these are new and I'll need to clean them up and paint them so they look fresh. So many things to do, so little time. Damn nice weather in So Cal today, but, well, there's this thing called football...... One more question that will make me sound even stupider than I have already, how are these engines clocked, meaning which cylinder is #5?!?!!!!

Middle right. Like the one in the center of the pic. You're lucky, that one is pretty easy to get to.

MArk, I see you got my "hint!" Thanks for the pics. Nice looking car! I have seen that before on black wheels. They show up more burgandy in pics than how they look in person. Yes, I was going to suggest painting the top hats. If you are going to stay with black wheels, you may want to pait the top hats black. You also need to harvest those pumpkins and install some clear side markers.

when are you going to harvest your pumpkins TIM???

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Ain't gonna happen... ever! I keep thinking if I leave them in there, someday, at the stroke of midnight, the car will turn back into a pumpkin and be gone. But alas, "someday" hasn't happened yet!

in this economy it is unlikely to happen soon!!! Believe me I am feeling the pain!!

OKAY......car runs like a dream again.....don't know what happened...but I guess it was the battery replacement that made it a bit upset...I disconnected (like advices in this fantastic forum!) the battery for about 30 minutes....started and engine check light is gone.....engine runs like a DREAM!!! So my P made into 2009 afterall.....lets hope everybody else will make it thru 2009 and far into the 21century healthy and happy....with out without a P-car (wink..... TIM)

Congrats! ...and now you have a code reader for when you need it next.

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Maybe you got a bad battery connection when you did the replacement first time around? I've seen low volts contribute to rough idle on the 996

Nicolaas, that's good to hear.

ahhhh, happy ending... even to the newbies...

I am putting you down for panic, not catastrophic.

I was being sarcastic..... since 2008 was a bad economic year for about the whole world...I wanted it to end with a bang and my P-car f'ing up on the 31st of december on my way to a party is kind of the final bunch of bad news!! Luckily for me 2009 already brought bad news...so this year is going to suck as well...except for the new baby in a couple of weeks, and the good thing about little kids is they make you smile everyday no matter what!! And by the way the bad news is not catastrophic either.

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I bought a obd11 scanner from harbor freight for $139.00 and it has saved me from the dreaded shop,by telling me I had a leak in the evap system, it turned out that a pipe coupler had come loose and I was leaking fuel.I fixed the leak and reset the cel and all is well in porsche land for now. Halvin

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What, you just found out that your girl frined is pregnant too?

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Yes, I smile every day when the nanny arrives to take over.

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Good one!

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Awesome - saved you the investment in one go!

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If I had the time to have a GF I would be driving my P-car more... I have been sleeping with 2 women in my bed for about 18 months and soon there will be a 3rd one!!

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I am the nanny.... thanks god for Sprout TV...

The BMW and 996 give me fits whenever they sit for a while

So, sorry for the highjack once again, but on the engine cylinder clocking.... Shall I assume that the #1 cylinder is passenger side, towards the rear of the car, and that odd cylinders are on one side, and even's are on the driver's side? Replacement coil coming from Pelican tomorrow and I'd REALLY like to do this once, correctly.... Sincere thanks, Mark

Mark, here is what your wheels look like powdercoated black. I love how they hide the brake dust.

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I have noticed that my 996 is a lot noiser at start up the colder the ambient temp is and sitting a lot also, i wonder if an engine heater would help. Halvin

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how cold are we talking.... below freezing? If not then NO........ What helps these out is to drive them, let them warm up, run them a while, then give a bit of spirited driving, followed by some wind down time and put away. Ask anyone.... drive more = runs better (dont ask Phil)

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It has been in the low thirities here in eugene lately and some freezing but I really havent kept a record. Just noticed more noise,and most Pcars dont move as much when it is colder.

yours is a 99' right, how many miles?, manual or tip? any engine mods? (if you dont know take a pic in there too, most people can tell you what you have from a simple pic) Garaged? and what type of noise?? ticking, squeaking, growling, humming... you get the idea......... you are in good hands and people will help as best as they can.... PS.. when you get $18 pony up to the bar and drop it down on a membership. That also will open many new doors of communication You guys get flooded out? I am in Seattle and we got hit hard in some spots... not me personally

Yes mine is a 99 manual with no mods to the engine (that I know of) garaged and as for the start up noises, I cant really be specific ( you gota be there)I have heard from 993 people that they have noises also. I think it is engine wear that will possiably shorten the life of the engine down the porsche road.Oh it has nearly 60k. I am pleased with rennlist people and the experience you share. And as for membership I have paid my dues but they havent posted it,much to my regret.

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That could be the secondary air injectors kicking in, which are there to help warm up the CATS more quickly so they will work properly. Once the CATS are warm, the secondary air injectors turn off.

The wheels in all black look downright sinister, and I DO hate the brake dust issue with regards to the polished rims on my own wheels. Kinesis was sold to Lexani a few years back, they were originally right down the street from me, and I met Peter Stacey (founder/owner) personally on several occasions. Hope he's doing well, great guy. I'll have to look into "servicing" of the wheels now that they have switched hands. I just re-read this on the engine cylinder clocking: [QUOTE][Middle right. Like the one in the center of the pic. You're lucky, that one is pretty easy to get to. /QUOTE] An realized that my last post questioning the clocking was probably wrong. From this, it sounds like the cylinder numbering goes 1-2-3, back of car to front of car, driver's side, and 4-5-6 on the passenger bank? Just checked, and parts were delivered to my house today so I'd like to attempt this tonight. Do I have this correct? Thanks!!!! Mark BTW, looking at the stance of that Turbo reminds me that I REALLY need to drop the ride height of my car sometime soon, what a difference! So many projects, so little time....

mean69, pm me if you ever want the info on the wheel powdercoating company. They are in the San Jose area and mine cost about $400 to have them done.

I'll do some thinking on the powder coating, but not the top priotity. The top priority WAS getting the coil pack swapped out due to my situation. I had not run the car since the episode a week ago, after making space in my garage to swap it out, I started it to pull it in. Ran perfect. Drove around the block perfect. Swapped it out anyway, and when I was taking the connector off, it came off a bit too easy, I didn't even need to mess with the latch on the plug. I think I had a loose connection, but with part in hand, I swapped it, and made sure the connector was indeed on correctly. Car runs absolutely perfect. Previously, I had a small amount of searching at idle, which neve bothered me and I didn't think twice about it. Post swap, idels perfect, no rythym at all. This might have been an issue all along as a result, didn't really manifest itself until the bigger issue. Very happy, thanks for the help folks! Mark

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Your car has no mods to the engine and is a NA 99, yet it is badged as a turbo?

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