Is my car prepped for a hard top?

I'm considering buying a hard top and wanted to know if those of you who have them installed could let me know if my car is properly prepped for one? Also how do you know if the mechanism is working? I used a 5mm allen wrench to turn the small screw shown in the picture but it didn't seem to make any difference on the larger hole. Is the component that "grabs" the hard top mount hidden and I can't see it when turning the tightening screw? I just want to make sure that if I go and pick one up it won't fly off on me on the ride back home.

Fernando, the locking mechanism is on the hardtop you install not that little allen screw you were looking at. The pins on the hardtop will go turn a 1/4 turn with the tool and that pulls the rear of the top down tight. Always locate the front of the roof into position first!!! Pete

FYI-putting the hardtop on or off is a two person job. The top weighs about 75 lbs. but is kind of awkward to handle. Tip: one of my rear windows will snag on the rubber seal when being raised with the hardtop in place. So I carry a putty knife...sliding it in the track to assist the window in getting started. You may want to have one with you when first putting the hardtop on in case yours does the same thing. relinuca

Here's a picture of the underside of the hardtop, so you know what the pins look like. I took this picture to show how to remove the "parcel shelf" for cleaning, which is shown partially removed. For the purposes of this post, just look at the t-shaped pins that fit into the mounting holes on the back of your cab. On the top of the pins is a hex-socket that allows you to rotate the pins to lock them in place. BTW, I can put my hardtop on and off by myself with my homemade hoist . No second person needed.

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That's a bit confusing since I always thought that certain vehicles didn't have mounting points and required a kit in order to allow the hardtop to be installed. I guess that's not the case and the mounting points just have to be included in the purchase of the top. Is that a correct assumption? Also I have a funny story from this morning. When I took that photo in the garage last night I left the top down. As I'm getting ready to drive away for work I try to put the top up. It does nothing. The clamshell comes up but the top is stuck. I get the users manual and read the emergency top procedure. I then realize that me messing with the screw managed to lock one of the little "wings" on the side so the top couldn't come back up. I turned it with the allen wrench and eventually got it lined up so it looks like the opposite side. The top then went back up easily. The moral of the story is, don't turn screws when you don't know what their purpose is!

Fernando, the front of the hardtop uses the same "touch points" as the soft top does when closing. The rear receptacles are what you took your photo of so your car is ready to accept a hardtop already. The hardtops come with those pegs that are equipped as shown with those pins, and the peg rotates as you turn your locking tool the 1/4 turn to pull them down. There is a newer version of those pins that are threaded and I am not sure when that change was done but perhaps you can research that since the male and female parts may not be compatible if you have both styles mixed!! Pete

Don't mean to hijack the thread...but on the topic regarding hardtop. My understanding is that to leave the fabric roof in the lowered position for extended period of time is not a good idea. If one were to put on the hard top for the duration of the winter, what does that do to the softtop? does that leave permenant folding marks? thanks.

I leave my 2003 soft top down all winter, most of the summer too, no problems so far. I vacuum it often, to remove dust dirt that will abrade it, and use RaggTop cleaner preservative at least once during the summer and before I store it. Fernando, What has not been mentioned is that whether new screw type hardware (not currently compatible with your car) or old bayonet hardware is on the top you can change it to whichever is your preference. If I were changing mine I would go to the newer screw type. With the screw there is less chance of rattles or squeaks at the attachment points. A few of us have built our own top hoists. Here is mine: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...hen-150-a.html

The T-shaped locking pin is the original type. Porsche started to modify it when there were complaints about noises/rattles in the hardtop. These noises were first addressed in Porsche Technical Service Bulliten TSP 6102 dated 7/2001 "Noises in the Hardtop" It looks like Porsche actually has THREE versions of the hardtop locking mechanism: 1. The T-shaped locking pin shown in my photo above. Also called "bayonette" style. (labled "previous" below) 2. The same T-shaped locking pin with a plastic sleeve on it, presumably to reduce rattles. (labled "new" below) Addressed in TSB 6117 dated 1/2002 "Modified Rear Hardtop Locks" 3. The Threaded Locking Pin, addressed in TSB 6117 dated 1/05 "Modified Rear Hardtop Locking Mechanism". This one requires a different recepticle or "catch" in the rear of the car. The newest Threaded Locking Pin can be retroactively installed on both the hardtop and car. You cannot mix this type with the T-shaped locking pins or recepticles. Looks like there is a kit for the retrofit, p/n 000.043.300.46 For what it's worth, I have the original style and have no problems with noises from the locking pins or hardtop. You can read all these TSBs over at Renntech.org , but a membership is required. Well worth it.

Frisbee91 summed it up pretty good. If the picture in your first post is the rear hardtop receiver on your car, then you have the older twist-locking pins which were in cars from 1999~2002. In 2003 the hardtop was not included with US cars, and the receiver hardware was not installed on the car, but those 2003> cars that did have hardtops installed used a screw-lock receiver. From the looks of things, your car will take a hardtop from any 1999~2002 car with no issues.

Forgot to mention there a couple of plastic protectors that snap into the receiver holes to help protect your fabric from the top bayonets/screws while you're wrasselin' the top in to place.. I can't find a pic someone will probobly post one before I do.

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Wow, The retrofit kit is seriously expensive. Over $300 at the first hit on my google search, but maybe it can be found cheaper somewhere. Also, the parts are available individually, which could possilbly help if you don't need the complete kit.

When I put my top down for the winter install of my hardtop I put a large soft towel in the fold of the plastic window to keep it from creasing. Works great for the older cars with the plastic rear window.

/\ /\ yup, been doing it for 12 years now........ works perfect.

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Thanks for the answers everyone. It looks like I'll have to ask what year the top is from before purchasing and then act accordingly.

Anyone know where I can source the round black plastic caps that plug the bayanette holes in the back piece?

Gretch, the dealer sellls these pop in caps in pairs. I think I paid 10.00 a few years ago for replacements. Pete

I picked up a hardtop today! It was a bit of a pain to install at first but once I got the hang of it then the going was easy. Strange sensation having it on as I can't hear the car's exhaust quite as much. Plus I hear more engine whine then I ever have before. I drove with it on for about 3 hours on the highway and it worked quite well except for some "booming" as a result of wind that hit around 80 MPH. I didn't hear any squeaks until I got in town and encountered some bad roads, then it started making some noise around the area where the driver's side window and the top meet. I plan on using it mostly for the track but may also consider using it in the winter. It'll probably stay on this week though because I'm detailing the car next weekend so I want to make sure the top gets some treatment as well. I'll take pictures after that!