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YOUR RESEARCHCarbon Fibre Door Sill Repair (Resin cracked and lifting)
Leading reported evidence
Clean area
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I then cleaned the area with compressed air and wiped it with acetone.
Carbon Fibre Door Sill Repair (Resin cracked and lifting)
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Leading evidence: 'Clean area' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean area' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I sanded the area around the area to be repaired with 220 grit to create better adhesion.
Carbon Fibre Door Sill Repair (Resin cracked and lifting)
Use knife
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used my knife to cut the resin at the edge of the sill, but it was a delicate and difficult operation.
Carbon Fibre Door Sill Repair (Resin cracked and lifting)
Use plastic putty knife
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I also used a plastic putty knife to apply it, to get a better adhesion in the curve.
Carbon Fibre Door Sill Repair (Resin cracked and lifting)
Use ryobi orbital sander
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I started with 220 grit to smooth the roughness and create a smooth transition between the old coating and the new resin (I actually used my Ryobi orbital sander to do this).
Carbon Fibre Door Sill Repair (Resin cracked and lifting)
Use ryobi orbital sander
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I started with 220 grit to smooth the roughness and create a smooth transition between the old coating and the new resin (I actually used my Ryobi orbital sander to do this).
Carbon Fibre Door Sill Repair (Resin cracked and lifting)
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2 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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As follow up on my thread about cracking resin on the carbon fibre door sills, (
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...air-ideas.html
), recently the cracking appeared to be spreading and the resin coating lifting.
The following outlines an 80% fix (in my estimation) using fibreglass resin available at most auto parts stores (3M Bondo Fiberglass Resin). I have never worked with resin before and would rate this relatively easy to do, but I learned a bunch doing it and will share herein.
Total cost ~ $20
Total time � 2.5 hours (+2 hours drying time for the resin)
Tools
Painter�s tape
Sharp utility knife
Picks
Sand paper grades (220 to 2000)
Power drill and polishing wheel (or equivalent)
Preparation
First, I taped off the working area to minimize the potential for scratches.
I removed all of the old cracking and lifting resin using a sharp knife and a couple picks to gently pry off the existing clears coat. Cut straight lines around the working area to limit the amount that breaks off. The resin coating has a tendency to lift, so delineating a working area by cutting into the existing good resin is critical. You need to cut all the way to the carbon fibre base. I should have done a better job of doing this everywhere. I would also suggest bevelling the edges to get a better adhesion and transition between the old and the new surfaces.
I sanded the area around the area to be repaired with 220 grit to create better adhesion.
I then cleaned the area with compressed air and wiped it with acetone.
Repair
Mix up the resin and apply liberally to the area with a paint brush. You need to fill a better part of 3/32� (2.5 mm). You will also need a rag to continuously remove the overflow of resin to keep it off the painted part of the sill.
I had a great amount of difficulty getting the areas to fill near the curve of the sill (gravity was working well today). It took two applications of resin to achieve a reasonable result (but not great). On the second coat, I deliberately mixed more hardener and waited about 5 mins for it to thicken before I applied it. I also used a plastic putty knife to apply it, to get a better adhesion in the curve. This produced a reasonable result, but resulted in a rougher surface than I would have liked.
Note: the tape is critical in keeping the runoff resin from sticking to the painted part of the sill. However, do not wait to long to remove the tape as the resin hardens it becomes difficult. I ended up waiting about 1 hour and had trouble. I used my knife to cut the resin at the edge of the sill, but it was a delicate and difficult operation. Next time I would test it after 30 mins.
Let dry for 2 hours.
Finishing
Nothing hard here, just lots of wet sanding.
I started with 220 grit to smooth the roughness and create a smooth transition between the old coating and the new resin (I actually used my Ryobi orbital sander to do this). Then by hand did the following (probably overkill):
320 grit
600 grit
800 grit
1000 grit
1500 grit
2000 grit
I then polished with my electric drill using
Meguiar's #2 Fine Cut Polish� 2 passes
Meguiar�s Plastic-X Polish � 2 passes
.
The outcome is acceptable in my opinion. There is a bit of bubbling under the old resin which shows up in the pictures and the area under the rubber weather stripping is a bit dull in sheen and less smooth, but otherwise I feel better off that when I started. The flash actually makes the repair looks poorer than it is to the naked eye. Next I will repair the two cracks in front of the area that I just repaired.