911 Newbie looking at purchasing a 2000 Carrera

Hi there - Been a lurcker on Rennlist for a while; always had my heart set on a 993...but happened to see a 2000 Carrera for sale at a local Ford dealership (strange, but true). The price seems very good (too good?) at $19,900 and although I have never liked the 996 frontend (apologies to all of the 996 owners!), it seems as though getting a more modern car would be good for me as I dip my toe into Porsche ownership. I have gotten the Carfax report; 2 owners; the most recent one only having owned the car for about 2 months. Overall, the car seems very clean; some chips on the bumper as well as 3 small chips on the hood (1 touched up, the other showing the cream base coat of paint). The dealership is willing to let me do a PPI, though after we have negotiated price and a clean PPI would be an agreement that I would purchase the car. Here is a link to the car: http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...eadExists=true If the link doesnt work, it is the only Porsche for sale at www.haagford.com As a first time buyer, aside from the PPI, what else should I be concerned with? I find that the previous owner only had the car for 2 months to be odd; also, there are incomplete service records. The first owner looked to have leased it for 9 years and the carfax report shows what appears to me to be sporadic servicing (though maybe a Porsche can go 12K+ between services). The mileage is about 75K. Any and all comments welcome thanks David

Quotes source post: 6768827

I say no to this BS. If the PPI comes back bad do they refund the cost? I think not. If they are stuck on this, just walk away. Some stuff you can do yourself: Kick the mufflers lightly. If you hear a rattle, you might have a bad cat or muffler. Pull out the front and back bumper plugs from where the tow ring would go. If your bumper has been replaced with non-compliant bumpers (or non OEM) you won't find the threaded hole where the plug cover is. Then you can "suspect" something. Check rotors for cracks. Lots of heat cracks are an indication of a tracked car. Make sure all of the plastic parts are in place under the car. If some are missing, my guess is the car went off the track. This includes the brake scoops. If they allege a non-smoker car, check the plastic stuff at the top of the door/window seal. Smokers are perpetually hitting the seal with hot butts when the window is only cracked a little. Look under the engine for obviuos signs of leaks. Look at the wheels, right by the air stem. You should see numbers imprinted there on either side of the stem indicates replacement wheels. Look under the trunk for the option codes and report back. Get some better pictures if you can and post 'em for us. Note that the 3-spoke wheel might be an option, or might have been added later. Good luck! -td

Hi TD - Thanks for the insight! I talked to the service manager at a local Porsche dealership and he pulled up any warranty repairs that were in Porsche's database. There were 4 things; 3 minor and 1 for $287 bucks; looked to be a replaced clutch back in 2001. The service manager thought it sounded like a pretty clean car but will know more once I bring it in for the PPI. One thing is that the original owner put on 12K miles in the first 5 months of ownership - seems like a lot of driving for such a short amount of time

Quotes source post: 6769517

can you get the ppi done at a local independent porsche repair facility, if so do that. You will eat the ppi cost regardless, but worth it if you REALLY like the car. Don't let the dealer buffalo you - they are having a hard time selling anything - and use the ppi to your advantage when negotiating final cost - do not negotiate the buying price now (if it's not too late). 'Sounds' like a nice car!!!

Quotes source posts: 6768827, 6768827

Very, very different. Make sure you drive a few and make sure you understand what you're giving up and what you're gaining with each option. Do you want to dip your toe into "Porsche" ownership, or into "911" ownership? 996's are great cars, but if you've always wanted the icon you've lusted after since you were a little boy with the 930 poster on the wall, you'll really have to own a <'99 car to scratch that itch. This is not too unreasonable. You should negotiate a "no problems" deal ahead of time (WITH the understanding that found problems will be resolved or the price discounted accordingly) for your protection, and as common courtesy to the seller. What if you do the PPI, find problems and they won't budge on price? You're out the cost of the PPI and you're screwed. What if you do the PPI, the car is great, and you try to nickel and dime them anyway? They've wasted their time on a seller who was never serious. PPI should be like a home inspection. Make the deal based on known information, then only adjust the deal if any previously unknown information comes out of the PPI. And you really should find a top-class independent to do the inspection.

Thanks for all of the good recommendations I just spent 30 minutes on the phone with the previous owner....interesting guy. Bought the Porsche as a toy while his S4 was getting heavily customized / tuned up. Planned on keeping it but then found customized F-250 truck that he wanted so traded in the 911...that is why it is at the Ford dealership. He owns a transmission shop and so did a thorough inspection himself before buying it. He said everything was really clean and dry, doesn't appear to have RMS issues. He said the inside front rotors are a bit rusted and should be replaced, and he thought the clutch will need to be replaced in the next year or so. Otherwise, he thought it was a nice, clean car. I will still have the PPI done but I am thinking that this is looking like a pretty good deal. Thanks David

David, If you want a 993, I have seen them for sale at around $23K lowest. Search Pelican for details. You can haggle over the $4K difference, get it between $2K (993 vs 996), and end up with the car you want.

Hi Chao - I have to admit, I am beginning to be less concerned with owning a 996 versus a 993. Although the 993 has more of what I consider to be the classic 991 look, given my lack of mechanical knowledge having a newer car is probably a good idea. Plus, it would give me an excuse to look for a second 911.... :-)

If you're interested in a mk1 996, I would suggest searching for a car that has had a remanufactured Porsche motor installed (there are a couple on this forum). If not, purchase an aftermarket warranty from a reputable company because these engines can fail, regardless of maintenance history. Don't get me wrong, 996's are great cars but they do have their issues.

Same dilemma here. My main issue is how a 1996 993 can be more expensive than a more modern and powerful 2004 996. Can�t understand that. Any way I am not either a very mechanical guy so I should get the one that gives me the least problems. Good luck.

Quotes source post: 6775502

David, Both cars are 10 to 15 years old. Both cars need to have documented maintainance history at this point. I would be more inclined to buy a well sorted and maintained 993 with good history than a 996 with limited history. The 993 would probably hold value better in the long run, although finding a good indy in your area is a must.

What JMLA said.