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YOUR RESEARCHThis will NOT buff right out
Leading reported evidence
Repair after deer collision the body shop
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When I had my car repaired after deer collision the body shop used OEM (factory - had the factory parts number stickers applied) fender, front trunk lid, front bumper cover and these all came with factory metal treatment and base coat.
Leading evidence: 'Repair after deer collision the body shop' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check paint thickness of the newly painted panels' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Then check the paint thickness of the newly painted panels.
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Suggestion
I was horiffied with what I've seen from a shop that Porsche, Ferrari and MB recommend for their best customers.
Repair existing front fender rather than replacement based
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion
I'd also recommend repairing the existing front fender rather than replacement based on what I've seen in the pic.
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Suggestion
But couldn't a good dent repair guy massage that out?
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When I had my car repaired after deer collision the body shop used OEM (factory - had the factory parts number stickers applied) fender, front trunk lid, front bumper cover and these all came with factory metal treatment and base coat.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Well, my guy says I need drivers panel, bumper, hood, and passenger panel (so it all matches/repair some rock chips.) At least I was going to do the bumper before the damage.
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28 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T130754Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Well, my guy says I need drivers panel, bumper, hood, and passenger panel (so it all matches/repair some rock chips.) At least I was going to do the bumper before the damage.
I think I will be getting a 3M clear bra as well. So much for the hookers and blow.
****
hey - I have a brand new, never mounted drivers side fender - CHEAP !!
sorry about that man, been there - sucks... I think mine was on a Friday too IIRC
Well, it all started over by the tomatoes...
Two weeks ago, we had a Nor'easter. Besides knocking down trees, fences, power lines, awnings, and everything not nailed down, this SOB picked up my chimney cap (the metal pyramid thingy) and took the terra cotta liner with it! I've been through a couple of big hurricanes here, but never saw damage like this.
The best shop on Long Island couldn't take me until yesterday. Here is the stuff that went flying.
Just the damaged panels need to be replaced. Undamaged but adjacent panels only need paint prep and paint blending to match.
Arctic silver has no color in the paint. The color comes from the size of the metal particles, their shape, type and orientation. Size, shape and type all taken care of by paint maker. Acceptable paints and paint systems: Standox, Spies-Hecker and Glasurit.
The orientation under no little control by the painter. Factors that affect the orientation of the metal particles: Paint gun air pressure, paint room humidity and temperature, distance the gun held from painted surface, speed the gun is moved along painted surface, etc.
But an experienced painter, one experienced in applying these types of paint, can do a job that makes the new panels and the adjacents ones that receive some blending paint indistinquishable from factory painted panels.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Hey Divot, I think I got a silver Mk 1 driver's side fender, too. I rebuilt a Mk 2 and ordered (Xenon's Plus) a fender and they sent the wrong one...the Mk 1. Their policy is that after 30 days they don't take returns. It was sitting out back of my body shop. Should be still there......if you want, PM me and pay the shipping
If the only sheetmetal damage is the right front fender, don't consider replacing any other components. They will never be as good as factory, even if OEM. The manufacturers process of galvanizing, primers and preps, base coats and clear top coats most all with catalized hardners is almost impossible to duplicate. I found out after the fact that even the best, most exotic, most expensive, shops held in the highest regard do a pretty **** poor job compared to the factory. They get the look, match the stipple, match the metallic and the shade. But where they fail is the details. Door and panel gap matches, door and hood closure, window up and down friction and wind and water seal. Also disassembly and reassembly without compromising the hardware and fasteners and leaving out missing plastic one time use rivets and hole plugs. Even the very best shops use labor that is cheap for disassembly, sanding and prep and all the grunt work. I was horiffied with what I've seen from a shop that Porsche, Ferrari and MB recommend for their best customers. I deal with custom painters and the like often as I've been building custom bikes for my livelihood since the '70s.
I'd also recommend repairing the existing front fender rather than replacement based on what I've seen in the pic. Often, one panel relpaced will show signs of being different, years later, as well as other issues that arise. Just my opinions, others will vary.
Good luck!
When I had my car repaired after deer collision the body shop used OEM (factory - had the factory parts number stickers applied) fender, front trunk lid, front bumper cover and these all came with factory metal treatment and base coat. All body shop had to do was test fit -- Porsche panel fits the best in the world cause Porsche keeps its body panel and chassis assembly fixtures in good repair -- and prep for paint then paint and cure and finish.
I agree no reason to replace adjacent panels if they're not damaged. The one that is damaged if dent can't be pulled out then replacement necessary. Adjacent panels will require some paint blending. Headlight mounting plate adjustment tricky. Can take a couple of hours to get right.
My opinion would be to use factory fender purchased from Porsche dealership and a fender the dealership purchased through PCNA. 3rd party or reconditioned/even salvaged body panels are junk.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Thanks, Macster.
You always give great insights.
He did say it was a blending on the other panels to make it indistinguishable. These guys are the top guys in the area, when I dropped mine there was a 997 Turbo, some Ferarris and Lambos, a Ford GT, etc. You should see their garage. My one comfort is knowing they will do everything right, because I have seen samples of the work they do. It's why I had to wait 2 weeks.
You're welcome.
If you want to give the body shop guys a bit of a shake up, before car all put back together while newly painted panels still off the car -- the paint dry -- arrange to walk in with a nice paint thickness gage and check paint thickness of opposite panels -- those untouched and not repainted to blend -- against the newly painted or repainted panels.
Check various areas of each panel cause factory paint thickness varies. For instance the fenders could have thicker paint on their horizontal surfaces while the vertical surfaces have thinner paint.
Then check the paint thickness of the newly painted panels. If the paint thickness differ from those of the factory panels, ask the newly painted panels be sanded and polished or perhaps repainted and then sanded/polished so their paint thickness matches that of the original factory panels.
Mention a good shop and its repair work should be indistinquishable from factory. You are only repeating what the shop told you. Hold it to its word. The requirement is the car be put back into its pre-collision condition.
When (if) you ever take car in for trade in used car manager will walk around the car with a paint gage. If he finds paint thicknesses don't match... you can almost count on getting a lower trade in value.
Sincerely,
Macster.
This was my first request, as they do it.
No can do. It took a hit near a seam (don't know the right word, bend, contour?) at the headlight, and would still need to be fixed.
I could probably find someone else to do it. Then again, my brother in law found someone to "fix" a gash in his shoe after every reputable shop told him it couldn't be done. I'm not about to wear those shoes.
Macster,
Thanks for the tip on the paint thickness gauge. Will do.
WHAT????? No "hookers and blow????" You can't be serious! Let's rethink this again! It's not THAT bad! I think you can still get the hookers, but you will just have to settle for a different kind of "blow!"
Seriously, I'm sorry to see that on your car! That makes my stomach queasy!
Update:
Got a call last Friday. Car will be ready today. As everyone on the East Coast knows, the weather has been beautiful for days.
You know the rest of the story...
I demand a call first thing tomorrow morning, or I'll....I'll...I'll have to wait another day.
Macster-
Thanks for all of the info.
My car is at a good shop in the area. Also known for Porsche restoration.
No major work on my car, just refinishing bumpers for rock chips, and rocker moldings.
Stoddard - Porsche
www.stoddard.com
They seems to know what they are doing.
-Ryan
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