996 alignment & New swaybars

I have '02 996 C2, with H&R springs, HD Bilstein shocks and OEM 18 wheels. I took my car to the alignment shop to install a front M030 bar 23.6 mm bar + a C4S 20.7 mm rear bar, after that I requested an alignment that will improve my handling both for DE track and street. I ordered a copy of my prior alignment set up, and the new set up, and this is how it came: FRONT: Camber: -0.4 L & -0.9 R AFTER -1.1 L & -0.9 R Caster: 7.0 L & 7.0 R AFTER 7.0 L & 7.1 R Toe: 0.01 L & -0.09 R AFTER 0.04 L & 0.04 R REAR: Camber: -1.3 L & -1.9 R AFTER -2.0 L & -2.0 R Toe: 0.26 L & 0.20 R AFTER 0.18 L & 0.17 R Total Toe : 0.47 0.35 Thrust Angle: 0.03 0.00 What it was strange is that the template used was for a Porsche Carrera GT 04-06, instead of '02 996 C2. Do you think my car will handle fine with the new sway bars and new alignment on my next DE event?

Quotes source post: 6251863

You'll be fine. Almost the same set-up as my old track alignment. Your settings a little less agressive, but you won't eat through your street tires either Alignment 5_08.jpg -td

What setting are you using? Last time that I tested my car in a DE event, my old setup did well, only H&R springs and HD Bilstein with the OEM swaybars. At first I entered with 36 F & 44 R pressure, but find out that I needed to lower my pressure, I lowered it first to 32F & 34R, but my car was oversteering, then I raised the rears to 36, and behave very well even I passed a very mod C5 corvette. At the end of the day, my rear Michellin pilots where wear down on the right shoulders, probably because almost all the curves where left handed and some of two of them close to 45 deg. I really enjoy the day, now I'm preparing for the next one.

Quotes source post: 6252144

Both Andy and I (and a few others) have modded our cars to work as double duty track/drivers. Mine is more tame than some, as I only have one way adjustable dampers, and not remote reservoir multi-way adjustables (JRZ/Moton). As for the car: full Ruf Aero; 3rd Radiator; GT3 rear sway bar [full stiff], HR front sway bar; Pagid yellow brake pads (soon to be yellow (f) /black (r)); PSS9 [550r/250f]; GT3 front lower control arms (flipped); GMG roll bar; Cobra Imola seats; Schroth 6 point harness, 2 sets of track rims with take off slicks mounted; Cup brake ducts. Also, I did have a front GT3 sway bar with Tarett links, but I switched to H&R to address a suspension geometry issue. As for your tire pressures, it really depends on the tire and what group you are driving in. For the beginner groups, street tires are fine. Folks at the track should be able to point you in the right direction on as far as pressures, but your previous guess seemed ok. When/if you switch to R comps, you can surf the Racers/DE forum and get loads of info on tires/pressures/temps. I tried various street tires (Pilot Sport A/S; Yokohama AVS-ES100, etc); but moved to R comps a while ago [Toyo RA1; Pilot Sport Cups; Hoosier R6], then went to take off slicks [Yokohama A005 slicks; Hoosier Grand Am Slicks; Dunlop Gran Am Slicks]. The slicks are sweet at $50-$80 a piece and they last a LONG time. And always upgrade your safety before or at the same time you upgrade the car to go faster. -td

Hi all, Just came back from the alignment shop, they corrected the camber, but still my cars goes to the right, I was explained by them, that this couldn't be corrected, because of the outside wear of my front and back tires. Thinking of $, now that I'm hook to the DE. I just checked at bridgestone, for a Max Performance replacement tires for the rear and it goes for close to a thousand including mounting and insurance. Comparing slicks with the performance street tires, do they cost less?, will they last longer in the track?, can I use slicks only on the rear tires?, my car will keep the same height or it will lower more, that I need to see if it bottoms?, If my front tires are 225/40 ZR18 (18X8 wheels) & the rear are 285/30ZR18 (18X10 wheels), which will be the right size replacement in slicks?, what brand do you recommend?, tire pressure will be different than the street tires?. Sorry friends for all the questions, but I don't have any experience with slicks scratch_one-s_head.gif

Quotes source post: 6260864

What do you mean by "slicks"? Are you talking true racing slicks? If so you CANNOT use them mis-matched with street tires. And you probably should not be using r-compound tires or slicks if you are new to DEs. Just run street tires. Get something decent, like a pilot sport or pilot sport 2. Comparing tires : For lap times slicks are better than R-compound tires which are better than street tires. The SAME is true for price. [slicks>R>street] As far as longevity, street tires last longer than R-compound which last longer than slicks. R-Compound tires run around $200-$300 each, whereas slicks run $400-$500+ EACH. So, you WILL NOT find a great track tire that lasts a long time. A good set might last a while, and a crappy set might last a long time. You can find a compromise tire, like a Toyo RA1, Toyo R888, Nitto NT-01, BF Goodrich R1, or Pilot Sport Cup and get more life out of them with decent performance. You will still be looking at ~$1000. And if you use them on the street and track, you're looking at new tires probably every 2-3 months. A better solution is to get an extra set of rims with track tires only. As an example, my last set of Hoosiers R6s [track tires] was ~$1200 and the rears lasted only 3 days of track driving. That's about 15 sessions or approximately 4-5 hours of driving. The fronts lasted a bit longer. My last set of Toyo RA1s lasted more than 60 sessions. I'm now using take off Grand Am endurance slicks and they last a LONG time. Slicks may require substantially different pressures. You need to check with the manufacturer. My Hoosier slicks run ~36-38 hot, but my dunlop slicks run 29-31 hot. And to reemphasize my earlier point, you really shouldn't be running slicks until you have more experience AND a roll bar, racing seats with 5/6 point harness, and a HANS device. -td

Thanks Himself!, Great advices!!