Chads Mod thread: The info edition

The intent of this thread: To offer helpful info to those out there who would like to modify and/or repair their car. Besides, this might be fun too... PLEASE NOTE - I offer this information as a hobbyist to another. Please use caution and follow all safety measures when working on your own vehicle. This thread will be updated as I install new modifications to the car. The Car: 1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2 Picked up with 28,500 on the odo. 3rd documented owner Aftermarket mods by PO: GHL Exhaust, 19" iForged wheels, Bilstein PSS9 suspension. Factory Options: 09991 EXCLUSIVE OPTIONS (manufactured from the exclusive-program) CO2 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER XAA - FACTORY INSTALLED AEROKIT CUP XRL - 18" SPORTDESIGN WHEEL 220 - LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL 40 % 222 - TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM 224 - AUTOMATIC LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL 236 - 18" TIRES 375 - SPORTSEAT, BACKREST SHELL, LEFT 378 - COMBINATION SEAT, RIGHT, ADJUSTABLE 424 - CD COMPARTMENT 436 - 3-SPOKE AIRBAG STEERING WHEEL 652 - DELETE SUNROOF 983 - SEAT COVERS FRONT, LEATHER Car as delivered:

Factory GT3 Wheels iForged wheels have been sold. I purchased a set of factory GT3 wheels from a very nice Doctor from LA. Upon speaking to a local metallurgist, I got the wheels powder coated black. Please note: If you wish to do powder coating to aluminum alloy wheels, please consult with a certified metallurgist first. There are different alloys and ways to produce wheels. Each metal has different characteristics and knowing the proper information before you start will save much cash and headaches later. Powder Coater info: the group I used is located in Cumming, GA and is called Professional Cryogenic Metallurgy & Coatings. No affiliation, just one serious happy customer. Very reasonable, the powder work cost $260 for the set. website: http://www.procryo.com/ The results: On the car:

Exhaust Tip upgrade: Moving forward. From the get-go, I hated the GHL exhaust tips on the car. the stubby look to them made them look like an after thought. I purchased black powder coated Schnell tips from VertexAuto. Had to wait a bit for them as they were out of stock, but the results were not bad. I think I will be shooting for the larger Tequipment tips in the future. Results are....ok. they do look small at certain angles. Be 100% better then the existing ones. Lip Spoiler install: Purchased from Suncoast Porsche Parts ordered / used: Lip Spoiler (Part #996-505-986-G2X) - Primered Plastic Rivets (part # 999-507-427-40) - screw in type 3M Body Panel tape (part# 000-043-206-04) Rattle can - semi gloss black paint Please note - there are two lip spoilers available for the car. The one noted above is the Motorsports lip. Both still need to be slightly modified in order to be fitted. To fit the lip do the following: 1. Carefully remove existing lip by pulling the expanding rivets. (save these, they could be of some use later) 2. Using the old lip as a template, redrill the rivet holes on the new lip. Use the center as a starting point as both line up. 3. Prime (touch-up) and paint the new spoiler. 4. Add a bit more 3M adhesive tape to the new spoiler and carefully...slowly, install it. NOTE: you may need to trim away portions of the inside in order to get the spoiler to bend. Doing so will not harm it. Just be careful how much you take away. The fitted spoiler: GT3 Console Delete (A MUST for tall guys): Purchased from Suncoast Porsche Parts Needed: GT3 Console - (Part# 986-552-113-02-A10) Black shifter Trim piece - (Part# 986-552-241-02-A03) To install, simply remove the existing storage compartment and install the new parts. It is VERY simple and easy to do. The result is quite striking, IMO. GT3 Console installed:

Toddler Seat Every now and again, I need to pick up our 2yr old from Day care. After hunting and searching, I finally found the perfect seat. The Britax Parkway seat is the PERFECT fit. It is the one recommended on Rennlist and fits great. I found mine on Amazon.com for $69.99. A great price for this seat. To install: Remove the bottom seat cushion (velcroed to the body carpet). Then adjust the seat for your child. Please note - the weight specifications on the seat and how that applies to your child. Seat installed:

New stuff coming: GT3 Sways, x51 oiling kit, short-shift and a intake mod. Stay tuned. As I progress on the modifications, I will be updating the thread with DIY's, part numbers and how-to's. C.

Looking good! Can't be too many cars with the sunroof delete. Wish I ordered my '99 that way (I was smart enough to get the TC/LSD, though).

nice work Chad. sorry for the dumb question, but how does the console delete benefit tall drivers?

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Not a dumb question at all....Leg room, my friend. Leg room. My leg would hit the console. By removing it, your leg is more free in the cabin. Much more comfortable. Highly recommended for taller folks. C.

Looks great in white, excellent work, love the wheels. How do you like you exhaust sound, is it only GHL mufflers?

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I like GHL's ok. Not bad, nice and growly but mild all the same. I had PSE on my last 996. LOVED THAT. Will likely run muffler bypass for track events. C.

Very nice car Chads, love the aero kit! It seems that your tips are sagging kind of low. From my past experience of playing around with muffler and tip fitment, I bet you can move the muffler up to snuggly fit those tip under that bumper.

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+1 - only way I (6'6'') can properly make heel and toe in the car.

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Man, I HATE saggy tips!

looking great, chad! PM me your email addy so we can hit the track after Xmas.

Chad- Your car is really really nice. If you ever sell it let me know.

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Thanks....not a chance! C.

Happy, happy days... After searching for about 3 weeks, Rick Knab at Suncoast Motorsports let me know that there was one last 996 X51 oiling kit left in Germany. We found the part numbers and put a search in...could not believe we found one. Oiling Kit to be installed after the holidays. Part numbers: X51 Oil Scavenge pump: Part #996-107-980-00 Oil return line: Part #996-107-984-02 X51 Oil Pan: (I do not have it handy, will get later) And here are the parts: Pump & Line: Oil Pan:

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Pump & Line: Looks good Chad, take pics of the install!!! and the custom pan.

Chad as you know I am interested in the pan and so you got my PM. Thanks

Does anyone know if the oiling kit/pump is included in the standard X51 3.6L engine?

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From what my understanding is, the 3.6l has revised oil channels in the heads that prevents the pooling issues the 3.4l has. However, since the engine is still a wet sump system, the x51 pan with the extra baffles is recommended. C.

Keep going Chad. +1 Take pictures on the scavenge project. Fastest, Meanest flower delivery cart around!

Chad thanks for the info! I also ordered the x51 pan I have 02 C4 so 3.6, So what is the difference with the x51 pump.... pressure??? and placement?? and your thought is that they stopped making them??? or just out of stock?? Jerry

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See above. This pump / kit is for the 3.4L. Every motor has scavenge pumps on each bank. They are driven off from the cams. See here: The pump I have, has an extra intake to scavenge the oil in the front corner of the head. This issue was apparently resolved with the development of the 3.6L. Personally, I think you will be fine with the pan... If still not sure, consult a race tech. Hope that helps. Chad

I just got off the phone with suncoast. and your pic. (thanks) and their discussion... with the 3.6 and the tracks that I am driving on, this would be of no...or very limited gain FOR ME. So I will stick with the pan only thanks. Jerry

The project parts are 90% here. This weekend will be the GT3 sway bar installations as well as a good portion of the engine tune up. The Parts ready to go: The List: A. Lloyd's Mats - heck of a deal off eBay B. Tune up kit: New Serpentine belt, spark plugs and filters. C. 3.4L X51 Oiling pump and suction tube. D. GT3 adjustable sway bars & adjustable drop links (links not shown) More to come. C.

Chad - great thread and very nice aero...after reading your thread and was disappointed that the parts are no longer avail per Suncoast..... I went ahead and ask Jeff at Sunset Porsche if they might have the parts on their shelf and Jeff said the following: X51 Oil Scavenge pump: Part #996-107-980-00 630.19 month away Germany Oil return line: Part #996-107-984-02 153.57 month away X51 Oil Pan: 996-107-243-40 190.77 week away P/N price eta Thus it looks the parts are available but it will take some time. I hope I did not burst anybody's bubble. again, Chad you are a great resource. Adam

Good stuff Adam. Thanks for the post. C.

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How tall are you? I'm 6.3., but don't find the console too much of an issue

Dutchie, I met him a month ago. He is 6'6" and built like an NFL Linebacker or Tight End. Big dude and a very nice guy!

The adventure continues. I know I wanted a short-shift kit and a better sound out of the exhaust. After searching and seeing the feedback from you folks on the orange cap mod, I decided to venture out. Vertex was having a Holiday sale so I took advantage of it and purchased a Schnell SSK and intake kits. The Short-Shift Kit: Mind you my last car had the B&M kit. So to compare, just about the only thing different is the color of the anodized metal. Great kit for the price. The only thing I had to do was tighten the primary linkage and apply some thread lock. Other than that...nice quality for the price. One thing I did notice right away...the shifter returns to center. Not the left like the B&M. Nice. Installation was not too bad, but realized immediately that a set of snap-ring pliers are a must. So...I made a run. (I'm a big believer in the right tool for the job...) Installed Photo: Intake Kit: Now - there some who say this is bull. But...I have to say...the boot works. Nice little boost in throttle response. Nothing crazy mind you, but a bit more peppy. SIDE NOTE: As a simple rule, I always disconnect the battery when making upgrades to the engine. As previously stated on this forum, our ECU's are learning computers. They constantly monitor the engines diagnostics, making subtle adjustments to timing, fuel and output based on the conditions. By resetting the system, it starts fresh. Upon starting the car after hooking everything back up, be patient. It might run a tad rough for a sec or two till the ECU gets all the calculations done. Upon doing so, may help it adjust to the new levels that the new components are making. Installation was really easy, but I took it a step further and cut away a significant section of the baffle located inside the intake. Not only does the car sound better, but seems to have a bit more pep. Result: Happy driver. Installed photo: Stay tune...more to come. C.

This is why I caught the fever. Looks fantastic, great work/pictures

Chad, nice! BTW - my B&M shifter automatically returnes to center every time. I wonder if your previous B&M shifter was not adjusted correctly. Maybe the adjustment screw was too tight?

Chad looks great!!!, I have been going back and forth on that intake mod....so u give it a thumb's up? Christmas Vertex was having a Holiday sale, Still on... can yo PM me the details Jerry

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Keep going Chad, your on a roll! how tight the shift link joins the shift cable also determines how the shifter snaps back to the center position. The schnell shifter uses plastic bushings while B&M uses teflon... and the end of a year or two the plastic bushing will start to develop some slop to the shift.... ask me how I know.

very insightful, ty

There seems to be some confusion...Let clear up what I meant. The shifter is a bit more vertical (the angle) when centered than the B&M on my old 996. All shifters return to center. redridge: The bushings have adjustments to accomodate for the slop. Like I mentioned, not bad for what the price is. C.

Thanks for this post Chad. Enjoy going back and looking at your steps. Great photos, keep it coming...

The bars were installed today. Man...I forgot how much a pain in the *** the front bar is. Ugh... GT3 Sway Bars from Paragon Products. (best price on the web) Web Link: http://www.paragon-products.com/category_s/197.htm Don't forget to buy adjustable drop links for the front bar. (You can use the existing drop links on the rear.) Reminder to all: Make VERY sure you torque all front bolts to the proper specs. I have been in the presence of a person who guessed. And..as a result, paid the price later. I have yet to test drive as it started raining this evening. As soon as it dries out, I will post a handling update with photos. C.

Update to #7 - Sways... Also installed 7mm front spacers. Big difference on the look. Much better, IMO. The best price for spacers (H&R) including the properly sized lugs was on German Parts and Restoration. www.gprparts.com Very nice folks. (no affiliation, simply a happy customer). BARS (Handling update): Now THIS is the 996 that I remember. Much more nimble, and neutral in the corners. The front no longer "thinks" about where to go, it does it IMMEDIATELY. Awesome. The GT3 sway bar upgrade is by far and away on the best mods you can do for this car. The difference in handling is substantial. Happy, HAPPY, driver. More to come. Stay tuned. C.

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Interesting result on the handling improvement. Hard to believe it can handle that much better when I thought stock was already ridiculous. Looks like I'm forced into adding the GT3 sway bars as part of the must have dream list that's growing like a weed. (the good kind..I mean the bad kind..) How long did the install take you? This is a very helpful thread for me, thanks again

Thanks Chads996. My list is growing too. Thanks for all the informative goodies. Happy Holidays!!

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Hi Chad, Can you help me out with which bushings to get for the fron and rear? Paragon do have the best price. I was quoted over $100 more from Sunset for the front and Rear GT3 sways. Which size is the correct one for the PSS9 setup with GT3 Sways? Front: Sway Bar Bushing - Front Our Price: $6.70 Fits 996 6 speed 1999-05; Boxster 97-04 Rear: Sway Bar Bushing - Rear 18.7mm Our Price: $12.95 18.7mm. Fits 996 C2/4 99-04; Boxster 1997-04 or Sway Bar Bushing - Rear 19.8mm Our Price: $12.95 19.8mm. Fits 996 C2/4 99-04; Boxster w/M030 1997-99 or Sway Bar Bushing - Rear 20.9mm Our Price: $12.95 20.9mm. Fits 996 C2/4 99-04

First off, here is a photo of the existing sport seats that came out of the car. (Sorry the photos are poor. Working on getting a new camera) These seats weigh in at a little over 40# each. The GT3 Euro shells weigh in at around 28.6# each. That is a fair amount of savings. I ordered the seats via the Suncoast Porsche special that was running. I wanted to save money and find a used set...but, everything I found was sold or went too fast to get in on it. Next up, I purchased a set of Brey-Krause GT3 Seat lowering brackets from my friends at OG Racing. Good folks and very knowledgeable. Upon installing the brackets...I noticed a HUGE difference in the way the seat sat. Note the seat on the right. Stock brackets on the left, while BK brackets on the right. The seat sits a bit lower and at a bit more of an angle. Once installed, I noticed that the driving position was dead-on the money for me. Monsterous legroom and headroom was off the charts. Being 6'6" these seats are the best money I have spent on the car to date. I am very please with the results. For reference, I used this installation guide from a fellow Rennlister: http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/albuq41 More photos (yes, I know the belt in the photos is twisted. It got fixed later). Note the seat height in relationship to the console. Very low.

Looking good Chad

Nice one! The pad that is farthest out that goes under the leg, does it stay firm on the seat?

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Yep - Each pad is velcro'd in. Nothing moves. C.

Very nice! Thanks for sharing Chad! Being 6'6'' myself I'm curious how you like them after some more driving. How works the seat belt, coming through the for us "low" opening? Thanks, Harold

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I'll fill you in after tomorrow. I plan on going for a nice mountain drive in the afternoon. C.

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Damn. Tomorrow afternoon's weather looks pretty good for a mountain run. Would like to join you. Unfortunately, recent foot surgery precludes me from driving the Pcar for about two more weeks. If you don't already have your course planned, I can give you our (local Pcar folks) most popular spirited run route.

Chad - L@@king good Chad! If you have been able to fit these seats in your Silver '99 996 with the sun roof, would you have had enough headroom to wear your helmet? Just curious.

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Not sure. I bought Sparco seats for the silver girl. Those did not work out. Headroom was still a big problem. Without the sunroof, with the stock seats, I had an extra 1.5" of headroom. C.

Looks good Chad... big diff from the sport seats! Im sure youll love the room it created!

Before this starts, this DIY is intended to be used as one enthusiast to another. Please use every caution when using power tool and use eye protection. If you choose to do this, you do so at your own risk. X51 Oil pan Baffle Flaps Upgrade: Parts needed: X51 oil Pan ( see here: X51 pan from Suncoast ) 1 - small sheet of .032" aluminum (Home Depot) 2 - packs of 1" Narrow Utility hinges (Home Depot) 16 - 1/8"x1/8" Steel Pop rivets (home Depot) 2 - Packs of #6S brass washers (Home Depot) Tools: Metal hammer Heavy Duty Riveter Tin snips Dremel with cutting and grinding wheels Metal file Metal punch med flat head screw driver Fine point Sharpie marker 1/8" drill bit and drill Background on this modification and why: Upon mentioning that I had purchased this pan, it was noted to me by a local Porsche Race Technician that the existing rubber flaps would eventually break down and degrade with the heating and cooling of the oil. He had mentioned that when the flaps (or doors) finally breakdown, the rubber would separate and pieces would get trapped in the oil pickup. A bad combination. His solution was simple and seems to be quite effective. Remove the rubber flaps and fabricate custom aluminum panel doors that provide a more robust durability over time as well as performing the exact function. As a backup reference to this solution, I must note that the 1995 BMW M3 Lightweight Clubsport has this very same type of baffles/doors in the oil pan. It is a very popular upgrade with BMW Club Racers. The following is how I accomplished this task: 1. Examine the oil pan for any major defects. Why? Because your're about to tear part a perfectly returnable item. Make sure it's a-ok. Because when you are done.....it's yours. Diagram 1: Stock X51 as purchased 2. Removal of the flaps: Locate the riveted flaps on the baffles Diagram 2: Rivet locations The best way to remove these rivets is with a Dremel grinding tool. On the outer walls grind away the rivet heads till the material is flush with the walls. NOTE: Do this slowly and VERY carefully. The last thing you need is grind away too much material. Diagram 3: A properly ground rivet Continue on till every last rivet head is removed on each side. To remove the rivets, take a metal punch (sized accordingly) and a hammer and gently punch out the holes. Do so by punching in this order - outer, outer, inner, inner. This will prevent the metal band inside from binding. The flap should pop right off. Diagram 4: Removed rivets and flaps 3. With the rubber flaps now completely removed, it's time to fabricate the doors. PLEASE NOTE: the dimensions I used may not be exact to the dimensions that you may use. Tolerances and tooling may be slightly different on each pan. Please measure the appropriate sizes for your pan. 4. Measure the opening on the baffles and and mark where the hinges fall. Be sure to position the lower hinge so that the rivet heads a located within the open ports on the baffle walls. When drilling the holes, be sure to punch a point in the metal to allow easier drilling. 5. Position the hinges and rivet the hinges in place. Do so VERY carefully. And make sure the hinges are properly aligned to each other. Too much and they will bind. Rivet the hinges on both sides. 6. Door fabrication: Measure and cut out the aluminum sheet to the appropriate size. Using the metal file, shave off all burs. Note: the doors must remain as flat as possible to allow for proper hinge operation. 7. Door positioning. Carefully position and mark the best location for the doors with a fine point sharpie marker. Center punch each hole and drill. File any burs and smooth the holes to accept the rivets. Rivet doors onto the hinges. BE VERY CAREFUL. IF THE HINGES ARE THE SLIGHTEST BIT OFF, OR THE DOOR IS BENT, THE HINGES WILL BIND. Diagram 5: Final door assembled and riveted in place Diagram 6: Fully assembled pan Double check all the rivets to be sure that all are strong and the hinges are not binding. Good luck. EDIT: Here is a photo of the exterior of the doors. Note the rivet location.

Chad, again thanks for the info on the X51 Oil Pan...much appreciated

Are the rivet heads on the doors positioned so that they overlap the cutouts, allowing the doors to completely close? In the picture it looks like they aren't, but it's a little hard to tell.

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Yes...the rivet heads are located within each of the square open sections of the baffles. They fall open slightly when nothing is touching them...but they do seal shut cleanly. The doors have but a slight opening at the top of each due to the hinges, but it is extremely small. Less than a 1/16th of an inch. I expect it to perform nicely. Everything goes in to J3 Motorsports on Monday for installation. The pan, oil scavenge pump and suction line. I will have them inspect the pan and get an opinion before installation. C.

Nice Chad. Please keep us updated with these great bits of info as you continue to mod the car.

Looks neat... But I have to remain a bit skeptical here considering that the entire assembly in the stock 3.4 is made of rubber not just the doors. I would be a little cautious about the hinges themselves and that they stay intact. The last thing I would want in my engine is a metal pin from a Home Depot hinge that came apart. Not trying to rain on your parade. Good write up nonetheless. Will be doing the x51 myself over the winter. -Paul

The stock assembly looks like it's made from FRP. But the doors appear to be the same type of material in the x51 pan. At least that's what I see in the instructions downloadable from the BK pan page: http://www.bkauto.com/porsche/r9095.php

great idea Chad!... thanks for the write up!

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Hey Paul... If you look at any barn door style baffled oil pan (for any car - metal only) they use piano hinges and small hinges such as these. I picked these hinges due to the fact they are reinforced on the ends. Means - no slippage. And FWIW - the tech recommended I get the HD piano hinge. The piano hinge I found was to stiff for proper door movement. And..since there are no "forces" in the pan to inflict major damage on these, they should be fine. Besides, it is in a highly oiled environment. Steel hinges, steel rivets, all good, IMO. Do some research on various racing pans. You'll see what I mean. C.

Dude your killing me. Gonna make me have to really look into this... ughh extra work.. LOL

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Hehehe...Paul, you're speaking to the "measure twice, cut once" king. I am VERY cautious about doing this stuff. Always asking a ton of questions and making sure I check and recheck to make sure all is good. Besides, I am ALWAYS open to better ways should you find one... C.

Chad, did you give any thought to the BK kit? What made you decide to go X51 over BK? Any info you picked up in your search to share?

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Yes...after speaking with two different technicians about baffles in the pan, both of them said (without me asking mind you)...that the BK kit was not very well thought out. The primary reason, the oil intake sump is not lowered in conjunction with the pan. And...regardless of what BK says, one of them mentioned seeing a pan get sheared off resulting in a huge mess and a destroyed engine case. I was still considering one up until the second guy reinforced what the 1st had said. Decision final...hope that helps. C.

Not a fan of the BK kit. Just read the pdf instructions posted on the BK site and you will know all the reason's why. Reuse the stock baffles, dremel the baffle holes bigger, etc. In essense it is simply a deeper oil pan that holds 1/2 quart more oil.

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No worries. Happy to help. C.

Chad... are you planning to cover up the holes on the sides?

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Nah...the loss is minimal. Besides, there are open areas under the baffles. I will have a confirmation from J3 motorsports tomorrow morning. I'll be sure to post their thoughts to follow up... C.

Quick update on the oil pan mod. Just dropped the car off at J3 Motorsports to do the X51 oil pump installation. I had them look at the pan. A first visual glance, they liked it. when they get ready to install, I'll give them another call to see what they think. So far so good. C.

UPDATE - J3 Motorsports installation So far everything is going well. I spoke to the lead fabricator / engineer and he thought the oil pan modification was good. Excellent Everything being done: X51 oil pump / tube installation X51 modified oil pan coolant tank R&R Coolant flush More coming: Michelin PS2's (GT3 sizes) PFC 01 brake pads & brake system flush Then off to Roebling Road for some fun. C.

Took the car to J3 motorsports in Buford, GA. They did a GREAT job making this happen. Here is the complete list of work that was done: X51 Oil scavenge pump install X51 Oil Suction tube install (machining required) X51 (modified) Baffled oil pan install ** New Coolant tank Oil Change New plugs New Serpentine belt **NOTE - the J3 lead fabricator liked the oil pan barn door modification so much, they removed it and recorded all the measurements to fabricate their own. This is now a confirmed modification. Here are the photos: Pan installed Scavenge pump installed Machined port and modified heat shield. Tube to pump with heat wrap. NOTE: I will be installing a better heat wrap for summer use. Thermo-Tec make a tape that will reflect heat to 2000 deg. Next up for the summer will be the 3rd radiator installation along with a modified front nose for ventilation. More to come stay tuned. C.

Looking good Chad. I am very interested in the 3rd radiator install as I will be doing that myself in the summer.

Nice progress. Will this be strictly a track car for you, or also an ocassional drive on public roads?

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Both. Mostly for street fun and weekend mountain drives. I plan on attending 3-4 DE's a year. Proper preparation is everything, IMO. C.

Chad, Curious how much this oiling upgrade project cost for the install? Also, is this a 3.4 specific upgrade or are there benefits to the 3.6 folks. Also, any interest in a 3rd radiator kit group buy? 3 of us locally are already planning to get them together... more = better price. Also getting the x51 pan for 3 of us as well. All of this will justifiy my new lift and garage remodel. -Paul

Chad... this looks very cool.. Thanks for documenting.

Chad, looks great! Thanks for keeping us up to date on your mods...you provide excellent information!

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Yes I am also interested in group buy for both items mentioned

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Cost for parts is a little over $800. Cost for installation is about the same. Total to expect is around $1600 or so. This is 3.4 specific. The 3.6 has updated head to accomodate the oil issue that happens with the 3.4L. Although, I see definate benefit with larger baffles and baffle doors on the X51 pan. I would recommend that for the 3.6L folks. C.

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I think a group buy would be great on this item. Please note that Suncoast Porsche has a kit. It contains everything needed to do the install. And...it's only around $500. C.

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Thanks, that is what I thought but wanted to confirm it.

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I am talking to Erin at Suncoast. He is looking into this to see what he could do. I'll connect with him on Monday. I already have 3 folks that would be buying together and he knows that I plan to offer this to a few more folks... Once I have deets I'll start up a thread. -Paul

I too would like all of the parts necessary for this upgrade. As for machining the parts to fit, what's the story with having your guy (Chad) perform the necessry modifications? Is the install a DIY after the modifications?

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Hi Bill...here are the part numbers. Please note these are slightly different than that of the PCNA version. Shown below: X51 Oil Scavenge pump: Part #996-107-980-00 Oil return line: Part #996-107-984-02 Note shown: X51 Oil pan (I suggest custom modified baffle doors) The DIY is rather intense, but certainly doable. However, I would recommend having a person that knows Porsches do the machining... The simple version: 1. Remove all exhaust components. Headers and all 2. Remove Pass side exhaust hangers 3. Remove Pass side heat shields 4. Remove pass side coils and plugs 5. Drain oil 6. Remove Pass side valve cover 7. Remove Pass side oil scavenge pump Machining req'd: Need to machine a port into the valve cover (see detail) Then modify heat shield to accommodate suction tube. Here are the parts:

Beauty! The dual chamber scavenge pump bolts right up? What is in that location on the stock motor? Also, in the part diagram I have, there is a machined part on the X51 oil pan that allows the scavenged oil to flow back into the bottom pan. Have you seen that set up?

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Yes the dual chambered pump bolts right on. The pump is actually called, the Head Extraction pump. You already have one located there. It pulls the excess oil from the head and returns it to the primary sump. The new scavenge / extraction pump continues the perform as the other did, but also pulls excess oil from the front corner of the valve cover. I am not sure what you are referring to on the pan. Post an image if you can. C.

Two things, The 3.4 engine in the Cayamn S has the two pump system, with interal plumbing. Mantis Sport sump pan extension 1.5 qt , gives you the space below the baffle plate to have hinged baffle plates. We have used this for the 2 years on our racing Cayman S. Using the Aim data system ,we have seen no oil pressure drops 26 race weekends plus DE and testing. www.mantissport.ca under products

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Looking forward to it if it happens, and I have the OK from the boss to buy stuff for the car again (stuff I need for the track that is)

I did call today but didn't connect. I'll be more diligent tomorrow.. I mistakenly let work get in the way of p-car progress.

A new year and new parts received. Pics coming as soon as I get a new battery for the camera...I will post photos of the installation. Purchased from Suncoast Motorsports. The GT3 Brake Ducts have been enhanced to improve ventilation and brake cooling. Great for track use and only About $30. 997 GT3 Front brake ducts spoilers Part# unknown Link: GT3 Duct spoilers Next up: Aerokit rear valance GT trim. They are due to be painted in the next week or so...stay tuned.

Hey, Chad, How are the rear valance GT trim elements attached? Where did you buy them? I'm thinking about them to complete my aerokit.

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There are two bolt and 3M adhesive that those fins are held on with. If you are doing this yourself, take your time. The factory provides a drilling template to work from. C.

And I thought that I was slow on responding to threads.

I didn't even notice until I read Mark's post. Funny. I can't believe a year has passed. No problem on the delayed response, Chad. Hope the track car is coming along nicely (no doubt it is), and that you're looking forward to your first track experience in it. If you've already had that experience, let us know how it went. I'll also check the racing forum. Bob