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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHGlaze vs. Wax
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Use primarily
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Clay bars are used primarily to remove dirt and other particles, which have become imbedded in your paint.
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Bob, I use REJEX (can buy online) and love it for its lasting features and relatively high gloss, but my 996 is a daily driver.
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Suggestion
You really need to use a mild abrasive that actually removes some of the clear coat finish to remove the swirl marks.
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Hey, 996ers,
I've used Zymol carbon for years. I start with a wash, followed by clay (Autosol), and then wax. I bought some glaze last year (Autosol Poly Glaze from Germany) and tried it for the first time, and the P-Car looks great!
Which do you use? Should I use both? Does one last longer than the other? Like many of you, my 996 only get out when the weather is acceptable. The rest of the time, it's tucked away in my garage getting pampered. So, even if my wax (or glaze) doesn't last very long under regular wear & tear, my car doesn't experience regular wear & tear.
Also, should I polish my rims? They look great, and I want to keep them looking like new.
I'd love a suggestion on a new product. The bottle of glaze was small and I'm almost out.
Bob
Bob, I use REJEX (can buy online) and love it for its lasting features and relatively high gloss, but my 996 is a daily driver. It is GREAT (did I say fabulous?) for wheels, as the brake dust is very easy to remove. That said, I suspect that glazes will give a slightly better gloss but do not last nearly as long.
The Glaze won't protect your paint - it cleans the paint and helps to get rid of swirl marks and light scratches. You should always wax after glazing to protect the paint.
This helps a lot answers my questions. Glad you mentioned swirl marks. I just waxed the car and noticed some swirl marks that I have to eliminate. Thanks.
Anyone tried Zymol black or red? Does it work better?
I've heard a lot of people say Meguiars is the best. What type of Meguiars? I'm not sure, but I think there are a number of products under that brand name.
Bob
This is where I learned about all the questions you are asking:
www.autopia.org
Take 20 minutes and read the 5 tiny chapters they have free on line.
This is also where the Pro detailers meet and discuss finer techniques.
John
Meguiars next generation wax is very good. The also have a swirl mark remover but that product I have not used. The plastic cleaner/restorer works great on all plastics. It makes a huge difference on headlights, taillights and the interior gauges. As far as swirl marks go, I have heard clay works best, many DIY on the internet on this subject.
Clay bars won't do much if anything to remove/reduce swirl marks because it is not abrasive enough. Clay bars are used primarily to remove dirt and other particles, which have become imbedded in your paint.
You really need to use a mild abrasive that actually removes some of the clear coat finish to remove the swirl marks. The best results are realized with a dual action (random orbital) polisher, but you can also do this process by hand. If you have some shallow scratches, the same process can be used to either remove the scratch or at least smooth the edges of the scratches in order to make them less noticeable.
For swirl and scratch removal, it is recommended that you start with the least abrasive product and polishing pad. If that combination does not get the results you are seeking, then you move up to a more abrasive product/pad combination to remove the scratches. Once that is accomplished, then you move back down to a lesser abrasive product to remove the micro scratches left behind from the previous step.
The next to last step is to use a polish/cleaner or even a glaze (which will contain fillers to help hide the remaining scratches).
The final step is to apply a protective layer of wax or a synthetic product to protect the paint. Wax will last 8 to 12 weeks depending on the exposure to the elements, while synthetic products will last 4 to 6 months.
And as always.... your mileage may vary..... no guarantee is expressed or implied.... use at your own risk.... and all other legal disclaimers apply to the above statements.
Hmm...i stand corrected on swirl marks. Autopia is a good site (thnx John)
The below link mirrors Tim's post, no pun intended
http://guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=15
Hey, Tim,
Thanks for the info. on clay and rubbing compounds to get out swirl marks.
Also, thanks ls911 for the link to the detailing website. I'll post some pictures of the fully polished product when I get a clear day. I finished waxing late last night - I'm a little obsessive/compulsive.
Bob
Ya I have always found Zaino to be the best too. Between its shine, and long lasting its perfect, even easier then most to apply.
Just make sure you wash all the old wax off really well first, and then claybar, because if you wax over imperfections with it you will have a much harder time getting those imperfections off later. (by imperfections I mean old bug guts, general grit, grime, etc)
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