Home Garage Engine Removal Photos

Well, it is on the floor in the overfilled garage. Now the cleaning and clutch replacement starts along with some oil leak repairs. In case any of you want to see a 120,000 mile engine out of the car here are some pictures: http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/an86carrera/Porsche%20Engine%20Removal/?albumview=slideshow The worst part was trying to get the A/C compressor off. Other than that, there was not one rusty bolt except for the exhaust connections. Now I need some new mufflers too, these are cracking at the seams.

Bravo!

WAAA Linky no work for me cut and paste - worked.... WOW, why did you take it out? what are your plans? How long did it take, with or without help? What's tha cat's name Thanks for sharing

Took it out by myself. I am replacing the original clutch and fixing the oil leaks. I probably have about five hours into it at about 1/2 an hour at a time. I just wanted to look it over to check hoses, etc...get ready to go another 120,000 miles. Ivan, I see you did your AOS in the car. I hope you snapped the fittings on better than the dealer that did mine 30k ago and caused that oil mess at the driver's front corner. Cat is Fido, very helpful.

Here is the link Engine & Tranny drop Len, I am impressed!

yea, I will tell you, I thought that hose was on, there was not a lot of room to work and I was at arms fully extended with a hurt hand... then right before I put it back together I checked that one more time and it made a nice big "CLICK" sound... awe ha! its on now baby ! sucks the stealer didnt get it right. Nice write up and great project, keep taking pictures and working on your baby!

it's good that you're replacing hoses. my indy said that is something to look into on 10+ year old cars.

That AOS is a PIA.... its just a matter of time that thing is gonna start weaping.... awesome job man!

Good job! Is that some corrosion or evidence of coolant leakage around the bottom of the oil cooler, or just the way it looks in the picture?

Boy that looks familier. Mine came out of my 2000 C4 last Saturday, intermix problem. I also did the prep work in 1/2 -1 hour increments, and I think I spent almost as much time on the rear bolt to the AC compressor as I did on most of the other prep, what a PIA. I took off the exhaust before I dropped the engine, just a little more room and less weight. Really not all that bad, but I took alot of pictures of the hoses, wiring, etc. so I wouldhave a reference when putting everything back. As you do the clutch you should check to see if you have the pivot arm and bearings (there is a TSB on this), look at the RMS, and if you are feeling rich, consider Jack Raby's IMS bearing update. Good Luch

Doug, Yes that is what it looks like to me. Going to remove it and reseal or replace. Does Raby supply the parts? Price? Mine has been fine for 120,000 (knock on wood) I was hoping since it made it this far it was a good one. After a couple of hours f'n around with that rear bolt on the A/C I removed the throttle body and center manifold piece, 10 minutes later it was done with a box end wrench.

Wow great job! How long did it take you to remove the engine? You probably needed to get the car pretty high using that jack, so you can slide the engine out.

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Thanks for the link fix Tim; now, what is the girl on the left doing again?

Nice work - this is turning into a proper tecnical forum. I hope you'll continue photodocumenting your work.

Len... do you have pics on how you disconnect the drive from the tranny or diff... I guess this will be the procedure in disconnecting the awd on a 2wd dyno... is it alot of work?

Ano2boxster - Raby provides the parts for the IMS bearing replacement, I think it is $500-$600. Here is the link for his site: http://www.flat6innovations.com/recent-projects I found the section of the site with the info on the IMS upgrade the other day, but can't find it today, the site is kind of confusing and a couple of links aren't working right now. He also just posted a section of rebuilding/assembling a Boxster engine that you might find interesting. Also, here is the link to the Pelican tech article on tearing down an engine, it shows the upgrade to the IMS bearing using the Raby parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...erTech-162.htm They also talk about an upgrade they are working on that will be "less Expensive". The thing about the IMS is if t lets go, the engine is usually destroyed, so it might be worth the money. The RMS can't really be "resealed" just has to be replaced, and the latest seal is supposed to be the best fix yet. However, if yours is not leaking some say "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." For the AC Compressor I finally found out a fairly easy way to get at the rear bolt. If you remove the heat sensor that sits in a rubber grommet between intakes 4 & 5, then you have a fairly straight shot at the bolt using an extension. This might help when you are putting the engine back in as you can put on all the intakes, etc. with the engine out and get the bolt on easier. A quick question, did you AC compressor have a fuel cooler attached to the back? Mine did and it did not show up in any manual. Someone thought they were only on Turbos, but low and behold my C4 has one.

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I am not sure that will work with psm??? Some one else here have info???

I found the strangest thing in my engine compartment today, never saw that in the manual. The best part of this project for me has been working with my 13 year old son.

That's a good one. I've seen a lot of air cooled cars in that pose but that's the first time I've seen it done with one of these. Bet it won't be the last!

Dharn - I can't begin to tell you how great I think that pic is!!!

+1 for awsome pic!

Bring on the pressure washer!! (for the engine - not the kid)

I am pressure washing that thing before I touch it again, that was one of my reasons for taking it out. Of course I will cover all the openings. I have pics of all the leaks so I can find them after washing. Geeze, I only have that cat to help me, wife comes out to see if I have been crushed yet. Hmmm...not sure of the motive there?

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Has she been asking any questions about your life insurance policy?

Are you kidding, she took it out;o)

where did you get that engine jack & what brand is it? getting ready to swap motors in my car & that thing looks perfect.

I picked it on craig's list barely used $50. There were a lot of them, this one just looked new and was the closest to my house. They are called motorcycle or ATV jacks or lifts. It did work out well, the oil pan fits on the platform which has rubber pads. It is very stable. This one is made by Goodyear Racing? Some how I don't believe that... I am glad I got one instead of messing aroung mounting a probably unstabile platform on a regular jack. If you look at the box (2x4s with 3/4 plywood) with wheels on it supporting the transmission, that was used for the first part of the lowering then removed while the engine was supported on other blocks under the headers. This was required because the jack did not have enough travel to get under the engine with the car jacked up high enough to roll it out from under the car on the ATV jack.

I used one of these: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...yword=atv+jack

I use a Torin AMotorcycle jack from PepBoys, cost about $120.00. They have them on sale all the time. Bought it for the Harley's, but it sure came in handy with the engine.

All the '02 3.6 and newer engnes have AC cooling lines for the fuel. IIRC from Streathers 996 book, when they went to no fuel filter, (a system with a filter is a lower pressure recirculating fuel system, so the fuel is dumped back into the tank, and never sits in one place long enough to heat up) they went to a static higher pressure, fuel line system, and have to cool the fuel on days hot enough to have when the AC required.