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YOUR RESEARCHHow strong are the screw in tow hooks?
Leading reported evidence
Use central jacking point
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I used the central jacking point near the engine to get my 996 in the air.
Recommend wrong way of doing something -- wrong in
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Suggestion
I always have a problem with someone recommending a wrong way of doing something -- wrong in that you lifted the car using some other lifting points and not the factory sanctioned lifting points of the car -- who managed to get away with it by luck to others in the belief they will have same luck and avoid a calamity.
Leading evidence: 'Use central jacking point' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'hd suspension/brace components would be damaged' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend wrong way of doing something -- wrong in' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use cheap harbor freight jack stands, which fit over the factory jack points perfectly.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use a hockey puck to spread the load and since car frame is so stiff it actually lifts entire rear and I can do both rear jack stands at same time.
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I used a hydraulic jack at the cross brace, under the engine, right at the joints, to lift the car.
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Recommend wrong way of doing something -- wrong in
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Suggestion
I always have a problem with someone recommending a wrong way of doing something -- wrong in that you lifted the car using some other lifting points and not the factory sanctioned lifting points of the car -- who managed to get away with it by luck to others in the belief they will have same luck and avoid a calamity.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
hd suspension/brace components would be damaged
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Suspected cause
I have to agree that it doesnt seem likely the HD suspension/brace components would be damaged from the temporary static load of being used to lift the car enough until supports can be placed under the designated lift points.
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The tow eyelets are strong. Probably strong enough to support the weight of the car though they are not intended for that.
Also, the anchor point into which these thread is not designed to hold the weight of the car.
The anchor point is not designed to really take any force but an inline force that arises from pulling the car on a flat bed truck bed.
In fact, IIRC, the tow eye bolt should not have any side force applied to it though many a tow truck operator uses it to help secure the car which has the tow bolt being pulled downward.
Let me add that it is my recollection when I used to operate bridge cranes and other types of lifting devices that when I had to use lifting hardware from the actual crane or lift or hoist, chains, cables, slings, eye bolts, u-bolts and all the other assorted hardware, I made sure I selected the hardware that was rated for the weight of object being lifted.
AFAIK the Porsche eye bolt does not have a weight capacity listed upon it. Thus this strongly suggests to me it is not intended for lifting at all but simply intended to provide a place to connect a hook/tow strap in order to winch the car upon a flat bed truck or possibly pull the car out of a shallow ditch or something similar.
I used a hydraulic jack at the cross brace, under the engine, right at the joints, to lift the car. To get more room, I also removed the reat bumper support.
That you lifted the car using the wrong method and got away with it -- maybe -- is no reason for anyone else to follow your advice.
I always have a problem with someone recommending a wrong way of doing something -- wrong in that you lifted the car using some other lifting points and not the factory sanctioned lifting points of the car -- who managed to get away with it by luck to others in the belief they will have same luck and avoid a calamity.
And how exactlly do you expect to lift the car if you want to use jack stands under the factory lift points? I have a very good understanding how structural loads work and that point is perfectly fine for lifting a corner. I didn't "get away" with anything. I looked and picked that point for a good reason.
For me, I just use the tow hook and a crane to get jack stands under the factory approved lifting points... when my fork lift is otherwise occupied that is...
So what you are doing is putting shear load on the tow hook when the tow hook is intended for tension load?
I am no mechanical engineer, but would genuinely like to hear from someone with appropriate creditability to chime in on this idea.
On my daily driver, the rear tow hook, which is located under the trunk area, can be used as a central lift point, this is sanctioned by the factory service manual.
FYI, the Bently manual also recommends the center point of that rear cross member as a viable jacking point. Having said that, I have some reservations because that center point somehow doesn't look too strong to me even though I had success using that point a few times.
I think ideally I would want to use both ends of that cross member (thicker) instead of just the middle point.
My post was meant as a joke, I agree it was designed for towing and not lifting... that's why it's called a Tow hook and not a lift hook, as per the manual.
Shame on Porsche for not engineering a valid center lift point for deployment of common jackstands... this flies in the face of the DIY'r who wants to be safe.
I don't jack from the engine casing lug that Pelican and other DIYr's use... from my perspective, that is the exact opposite load path and WAY more weight than those rubber engine mounts were designed to handle (tension vs. compression load, vehicle vs. engine weight) and seemed like a recipe for tearing/wearing out the motor mounts.
I personally use the same cross brace end mounting boss suggested earlier where the casting is largest and is directly in line with rear frame and where the rear suspension link(s) connect... so it is designed for massive forces (admittedly not wholely in the load path of my jack)... I use a hockey puck to spread the load and since car frame is so stiff it actually lifts entire rear and I can do both rear jack stands at same time. I acknowledge jacking from the center of the cross member will split the load in half for any end mounting boss (full load shared equally by two end mounts), but that assumes the cross member can handle the vehicle weight in a deflection load path, which for an aluminum cast part designed for lateral compression or tension loads I was not comfortable with personally.
To each their own... all have trade offs I guess. Safest is truly a 4 point home lift like MaxxJack or getting Jackpoint stands for $400-500... I'm personally sticking to what I'm doing now.
Just FYI - For RL members Jackpoint Jackstands are currently $279/pair (currently - not forever). Not cheap, but less than $400. More important - that's probably less than the cost of any damage you'd do if you don't pick the other "right" place to put a jack or jack stand. Also less than many things you can buy for your car and consume in a weekend at the track - brake pads, rotors, fluid change, 1 tire, gas . . .
Well, you must know more about the car's structure than the factory.
I just consulted my digital Turbo factory reference and it shows lifting the car is only supported (no pun) at the lift points/pads. While I didn't consult the Boxster or 996 manuals my recollection is these car are only to be lifted by these points as well.
Were I going to work on my car and wanted/needed to get the car in the air supported by something other than its tires/wheels I'd buy a small portable low profile lift that would safely support the car on its lift points or get a drive on lift that would allow me to lift the car by its wheel/tires high enough to then place jack stands positioned to support the car by its lift points.
So near $600 for common set of 4... pricey but serves a purpose and still cheaper than a Maxx-Jack... thanks for offering discount as I'm sure some will take advantage
I have to agree that it doesnt seem likely the HD suspension/brace components would be damaged from the temporary static load of being used to lift the car enough until supports can be placed under the designated lift points.
If these parts cant take this how the heck do they survive under the dynamic loading of G-forces, potholes, WOT, etc?
Also many use the thick part of the bottom of the engine to temporarily lift the rear of the car until jack stands can be placed under the "real" lift points. This "pushes" or compresses the mounts in and does not pull them apart. Once again, a temporary load and not constant, varying, side to side, etc., loading they experience during WOT, shifting, braking, etc.
Maybe the cars parts are a little less fragile than some think.
There are certainly options for jacking and supporting a car. Oddly enough the majority of jack stand "failures" are the result of the car slipping off the jack stand. Here's a 911 rocker that was the victim of such a slip off of a traditional stand on the jacking location. There are stands that work better than others (not just Jackpoint jack stands) and cost more or less than others. It seems the good choice is the option that one feels most comfortable using. Telling a guy that jacking a car is easy in any number of places won't make him feel any better if his car falls or gets busted.
I did my novice season on the track on street tires and stock pads and a total budget of $500 (tires were given to me free). I'd never think of that now and it costs lots more. Lifting a car once is one thing. Lifting it every weekend is different. You can spend more or less on anything related to your car. Know the options and pick the one that fits your circumstances and budget. Price alone isn't always the only consideration.
I do not do much work on my cars -- just oil/filter changes, brakes -- and none recently. I have no spare time.
For oil/filter changes I use ramps.
For replacing the brakes I have two scissors jacks and use them to lift both sides of the car. I get one front wheel off the ground and the other side just short of off the ground to reduce the amount of twisting I subject the car to. It probably doesn't matter but I feel better.
I have to point out both jacks are used to lift the car using the factory lift points.
Were I going to do any more work on my cars -- if my schedule permitted it and I had a place -- I'd get a lift like I mentioned in an early post.
Previously when I worked on my other cars I had at least a nice (professional grade) floor jack and 4 very sturdy jack stands. These cars had lift points and other points under which jack stands could be placed so lifting and jack stand placement did not interfere with one another.
The Boxster and Turbo are rather different from these other cars in that they have very limited areas for lifting/supporting the car once in the air.
It seems to me that one of these lifts is just the cost of entry into the world of doing his own servicing/work on his Porsches though it appears many believe they can treat their Porsche like an old Ford pickup and jack the thing in the air from anywhere and place jacks stands where it suits them.
Who said anything about jacking from anywhere. I was a bit sceptocal at first but now, I'm 100% convinced that you don't have a clue what you are talking about.
To answer the OP, the tow hooks that are currently on the market will bend if you lift the car up high enough , but, you may also bend the aluminum bumper before the tow hook bends. They whole system was not designed to see bending loads like you would see by lifting the car from the hook.
Jacking (lifting) the car or supporting it by jack stands positioned anywhere but where the sanctioned lift/support points are. It is all the same. Do you think the car weighs less once it is lifted and then ready to support?
When (if) I come across some other way to lift/support the car sanctioned by Porsche I'll post it. You are course welcome to do the same.
Jesus dude you are going to kill yourself trying torque your car's chassis. Driving up a steep incline at an angle will cause more chassis flex than jacking. Use a proper jack and jack stands, don't rely on scissor jacks.
I used the central jacking point near the engine to get my 996 in the air. I use cheap harbor freight jack stands, which fit over the factory jack points perfectly.
If the engine is out of the car, you can lift it like this too (although I suggest leaving the impact beam on for strength).
Here is what I do...
first, make sure my jackstands fit into the holes in the oem support places:
Then, I jack one side at the rear, place the front and support that side rear wheel with 6" block of wood. Then jack the other side, place the front and slide wood under that rear wheel too. So far so good.
Then, to place the rear stands, I do this under the center rear:
which tries to minimise the loads onto something fairly strong like where the lower rear control arms connect - load spread with a soft hockey puck type thing. As soon as it is raised, place the rear supports in factory location.
10 min job
I wouldnt do that. They are made to pull the car not lift it. the bumper nor the hook are made to have that direction pressure... I think you may snap the hook.
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