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YOUR RESEARCHI have to firmly press the clutch pedal against the floorboard to start the car
Leading reported evidence
Replace 3 switches
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When the brake light switch on my 02 Boxster failed I just replaced all 3 switches.
I have to firmly press the clutch pedal against the floorboard to start the car
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Leading evidence: 'Replace 3 switches' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'cars equipped' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace 3 switches' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
The problem is cars equipped with manual transmissions have required the clutch be depressed to start the engine now for so long that I fear many drivers have forgotten -- perhaps not even been taught like I was when I took driving class -- to depress the clutch pedal and ensure the transmission in neutral before starting the car.
I have to firmly press the clutch pedal against the floorboard to start the car
Replace switch
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I have to firmly press the clutch pedal against the floorboard to start the car
Test on
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Suggestion
I would do a continuity test on that switch, maybe its going bad or the connection is disconnecting....
I have to firmly press the clutch pedal against the floorboard to start the car
Use zip-tie around the switch
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Suggestion · Original poster
Well the problem came back (perhaps it never went away), so I just used a zip-tie around the switch to trick it into thinking that the clutch is depressed, and now you don't have to depress the clutch to start the car.
I have to firmly press the clutch pedal against the floorboard to start the car
Use zip-tie around the switch
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Suggestion · Original poster
Well the problem came back (perhaps it never went away), so I just used a zip-tie around the switch to trick it into thinking that the clutch is depressed, and now you don't have to depress the clutch to start the car.
I have to firmly press the clutch pedal against the floorboard to start the car
Reported and suspected causes (1)
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cars equipped
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Suspected cause
The problem is cars equipped with manual transmissions have required the clutch be depressed to start the engine now for so long that I fear many drivers have forgotten -- perhaps not even been taught like I was when I took driving class -- to depress the clutch pedal and ensure the transmission in neutral before starting the car.
I have to firmly press the clutch pedal against the floorboard to start the car
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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
19 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
I drove the car today and the starting problem is fixed.
It didn't used to be like this, but I really have to put a lot of pressure on it, otherwise it won't start. I assume there is some sort of switch/sensor that once the pedal passes a certain point, the starting lockout is released. I figure that mine needs to be readjusted or something.
Anyone have any ideas? I haven't had a chance to look at the pedal assembly yet...
Thanks,
- Anthony
The clutch-starter switch and the clutch-throttle delay switch are 2 separate switches. If you look at the photo below from up under the footwell where the clutch pedal is located you can see the gray rectangular clutch-starter switch in the lower half of the photo. It's a microswitch and you can hear it click when depressing the pedal. The clutch-throttle delay switch is the orange/black plunger type switch in the upper right of the photo. That is probably connected to the DME and affects throttle response and cruise control AFAIK.
I was just coming here to post this. I looked at the assembly last night and snapped a photo with my camera phone:
If you see where I circled the one connection, one prong was pointing at the floor board and the other at the side of the car. So I flattened it out so they were both the same, and now it seems to be fine. Looking at your photo above, both of your connections are somewhat pointing down instead of to the side like mine. I figured I just hit mine with my shoe when I was getting in or out of the car and that's what messed it up.
Granted I still have th push the pedal all the way to the floor, but I don't have to smash it down there to start. I did not see any adjustment for this switch, as the switch should be disabled once the clutch passes the halfway point (where you hear it click).
- Anthony
The car
Yeah... I spoke too soon.
Maybe I am just not fully pressing the pedal all the way to the floor, but when leaving dinner tonight it did the same thing.
Do all of you have to completely and firmly depress the clutch pedal all the way to the floor in order to start the car?
I didn't see any adjustment underneath there though, so I'm not quite sure where to go from here. Is there a bump-stop for the clutch pedal on the floorboard? I don't remember seeing one...
are you sure there is nothing in the way such as your carpet etc... you shouldn't have to press hard at all. In fact you will hear the limit switch way before you hit bottom.....
I would do a continuity test on that switch, maybe its going bad or the connection is disconnecting.... at least you know where the problem is.
Yeah, that's what is throwing me off - i hear the switch about halfway through the clutch pedal travel.
Good idea. Are we sure this is the only switch? There isn't a secondairy switch elsewhere?
I would not think so, and the fact that moving the connector seemed to fix it even if temporarily. I'd vote for replace and see how it goes.
How much can this part cost?
A continuity test at the least.
Robert
Well the problem came back (perhaps it never went away), so I just used a zip-tie around the switch to trick it into thinking that the clutch is depressed, and now you don't have to depress the clutch to start the car.
Problem fixed for $.05 cents.
- Anthony
A new switch is IIRC around $12. I don't like the zip-tie "trick". The problem is cars equipped with manual transmissions have required the clutch be depressed to start the engine now for so long that I fear many drivers have forgotten -- perhaps not even been taught like I was when I took driving class -- to depress the clutch pedal and ensure the transmission in neutral before starting the car. Thus with the clutch interlock switch bypasssed my concern is someone will get in the car and start the engine in gear and with the clutch not depressed. Even if you don't let anyone drive your car when you take it in for service a tech will almost certainly drive it and while I trust the techs to pay attention, sometimes there's junior "tech" who moves cars around and takes then for washing and even gassing and he may not be as careful as a tech.
To me this modification that bypasses a safety feature of the car puts some liability on the owner of the car should anything happen.
Get rid of the zip-tie. Replace the switch. At the same time replace the brake light switch and the clutch cruise control switch as well. When the brake light switch on my 02 Boxster failed I just replaced all 3 switches. They all get the about the same number of switch opening/closing cycles and if one bad the others are near enough to the end of their life to justify replacement.
Sincerely,
Macster.
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