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YOUR RESEARCHwhat the hell is that leak?
Leading reported evidence
Replace engine oil
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
i just saw this an hour ago when i changed the engine oil,,
Leading evidence: 'Replace engine oil' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check leaks' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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The holes will be used later for the fill tube and for the temperature probe.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used an Oregon Scientific with a probe that has a 10 ft cord.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used petroleum jelly thin coat on a few places to hold it in place.
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i just saw this an hour ago when i changed the engine oil,,
please, take a look at what i believe is the transmission oil pan and tell what is that oil,,
P.S. no lights, codes, drivability issues,, not even a drop on the garage floor,,
that is the trans pan.. no drips? how many miles on the car? it might be very light seepage but if you cannot rub it off with a towel, it just kind of worked into the cosmoline ( undercoating from Porsche).
the car made less than 40k miles,, I tried to rub but not to avail,, it is really dense and sticky like old mud,,
You mean this might be from the factory?
yes, it's a preservative. from road salt or other corrosives; you can remove it entirely in order to have a nice shiney bottom; but you are removing a protecant.
No....you may have a very slow leak/weep from your RMS or transmission, it hard to tell what it is...how often do you drive the car, if the car sits as many have experienced you may see a bit of weeping, I experienced this, powerwashed this area and it hasnt come back...I wouldnt worry to much if you are NOT experiencing any clutch slippage or drips on the floor.
Ok...I have a tip also and had the same buildup under my car....it could be a slightly weeping trans. Check you oil level with dipstick and or when you turn the key to start it will display an oil level on the console. RMS will only leak oil. Try and drive the car more often after you wash the area....I doubt it will come back.
One way to tell where it is coming from is to clean it, drive it and keep checking for signs of a leak. It should be easier to see the origin on a clean surface.
From Renntech;
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http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...ssion-service/
If you go to this site there are pics embeded in this tutorial.
The Tiptronic transmission has a special tool for fluid. First you have to purchase the tool (expensive) or make one (inexpensive). The tool is the V.A.G.1924, runs about $300.
You need the following tools and parts to start:
1. ATF fill tool
2. 7 (US) Quarts of Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle ATF
3. Torque wrench for 60 ft lbs
4. Torque wrench for 7.5 ft lbs (90 in lbs)
5. 17 mm allen bit
6. 8 mm allen bit
7. Torx 27 bit
8. Temperature meter with probe. I used an Oregon Scientific with a probe that has a 10 ft cord.
9. Porsche part 986 397 016 00 Paper gasket (Call Sunset Porsche, great guys)
10. Porsche part 986 307 403 00 ATF filter
11. Porsche part 986 397 016 00 rubber ring for fill plug
12. Kitty liter, you will spill
13. Socket set
14. Plenty of rags
15. Oil catch pan
16. Safety goggles
First we assemble the filling tool out of parts you can find in Lowes or Home Depot type of homestores:
1. Hudson 1 gallon tank ($9.95)
2. Barbed fittings and 8 ft of tygon 3/8 clear hose.
3. 1/4 inch shut off valve - brass
4. 12 inch of flexible copper tube, 1/4"
5. Assemble as shown below and bend the tube per the picture.
The steps are easy to follow:
1. Lift car off the ground and on jack stands. I need 16 inches on the stands to be comfortable.
2. Slide oil catch pan under fluid pan and remove drain plug with 8 mm allen bit
3. Remove the cross arm that traverses the fluid pan. Loosen only one bolt, remove the other. It will be easier for the next step and you can prop the arm to help catch the pan when the bolts are removed.
4. When the fluid has drained, secure drain plug back in and torque to 30 ft lbs.
5. Using the Torx 27 bit, remove all the screws crosswise. Move the cross arm out of the way as needed, but put back in a place where the pan will not fall. THE PAN STILL HAS FLUID in it, be careful
6. Remove pan carefully. The green gasket should still be attached to it.
7. Remove the two screws that hold the filter in place. Make sure the oil catch pan is underneath, the filter will have fluid as well. Remove filter.
8. Thinly coat some petroleum jelly on the suction collar of the ATF filter and install filter
9. Install new filter and screw the two screws to a torque of 4.5 ft lbs.
10. Empty the filter pan into the oil catch pan with all the waste oil. Place the filter pan on a flat surface and remove the gasket.
11. Set the plastic guard cap so the two windows are facing sideways. The holes will be used later for the fill tube and for the temperature probe. Notice how large they are.
12. Use the rags to clean the pan and the magnets in the pan. Set the magnets back to their original location. Here is a nice clean pan and magnets.
13. Place the new gasket on the pan. I used petroleum jelly thin coat on a few places to hold it in place.
14. Fit ATF pan back into transmission, tighten the screws crosswise to 7.5 ft lbs. It may be convenient to use the cross arm as a resting place while you re-attach the pan.
15. Remove the fill plug with the 17 mm allen key. Replace the ring gasket with the new one.
16. Fill the pressure tank with ATF fluid, make sure the valve is closed. Pump the tank to provide the pressure to move the fluid. The clear hose will show the red fluid filling it, and also you will see it running later.
17. Insert the "hook" end of the copper tube into the fill hole, and hook it into one of the holes mentioned before. Insert the temperature probe into the other hole, make sure it is secured.
18. Open the valve and let the ATF fluid begin to flow. You will have to add more fluid to the tank and keep it pumped. When the fluid begins to escape through the hole. It will drip, so close the valve.
19. Start the car. Open the valve to let more fluid into the ATF pan. Keep it pumped. Look at the temperature display on your probe. The temperature should not exceed 45 C. It begins at room temperature, so you got a few minutes.
20. Move the selector to position "P" and let idle for a a few seconds. When the fluid begins to emerge again from the filler tube, close the filling valve.
21. The engine should still be idling, keep an eye on the temp probe. With the brake pedal on, change the transmission through each position, holding the position for 10 seconds.
22. Open fill valve again until ATF fluid escapes from the hole. Make sure the temperature is higher than 30 C, and should be around 40C by now. Remove temperature probe and filler tube.
23. Replace the filler plug and torque to 59 ft lbs.
24. Turn engine off, and take car out for a test.
25. You are done, check for leaks, clean the spills (cat litter), and enjoy some smooth shifting
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.