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YOUR RESEARCHIMS Bearing Retrofit Labor time
Leading reported evidence
Recommend indi
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Suggestion
recommended my indi to another member here who got his damaged IMS repaired at the shop.
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Replace cams, rebuilding an engine in other cars, etc
Suggestion or failed attempt
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0
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Suggestion
replacing cams, rebuilding an engine in other cars, etc.
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Suggestion
I also learned it again when I touched the spark plug on my running minibike.
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32 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I was quoted additional 4 hours of labor for tiptronic. Originally quoted 8 hours of labor but now 12 hours at $120 per hour.
A local dealer quoted 16 hours of labor at $129 per hour.
What say you guys?
Thanks,
And that doesn't include the bearing. You should just take all the money for the labor and the bearing and buy an extended warranty that will cover the whole car for the next few years.....
Local shop is quoting me 12 hours for IMS bearing retrofit. Originally I was quoted 8 hours because I guess he didn't know I had a tiptronic. Yes, it's a C2.
16 hours is a quote I received from a dealer for IMS bearing retrofit.
sorry, didntr mean to add (clutch) hahaha
awe - 12 hours on a tip IF he does the RMS too, I really dont think its horrible or too much - has he done it before would be my next Q?
Yeah...they evidently do quite a bit.. They're doing 2 this week on Boxsters..
And the guy knew what he was talking about.. he said "as soon as the bearing seal starts to leak...it can go.."
I can drop my engine and trans in my driveway in 4-5 hours. If I had a lift and trans jack it should only be 3+ hours to take out a trans, another 3+ to put it back in. then an hour or two to remove the flywheel and the bearing, and replace them.
The challenge is that most dealer and shops use book time, and a good mechanic can usually do a job in 80% or less than book time. It is one of the ways they make money.
I dont know. But I can tell you the guy that was looking at to do mine had 2 questions before he would give me a price:
1, Was it a c 2 or 4
2, Was it a AT or 6 spd
shoot that thing is so big you could put the p-car inside!!
holy Crap!
and Kyle, the C4 is a LOT more work to pull the tranny - seen it done.. not sure how the TIp and even worse (from a time wise) the C4 tip would be
Man, this gets a little depressing when you're faced with doing the work on a C4S Tip
After seeing Kyle's thread on his IMS job, it looked like it could be doable at home. Then I read this thread on Renntech - yoikes!
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...total-failure/
Starts out bad and then goes to downright scary beginning at post #15.
Wasn't comforted by Jake Raby's statement "One thousandth of an inch separates success from failure in this game."
He did something wrong there. Sorry to say that. Mine came out way to easy and all I am is a guy that as a kid, got more enjoyment out of taking his toys apart to see how they worked rather than playing with them. Im not a master wrench. Never even ever been paid to work on a car. I am ASE certified in AC. Dont ask me how that happened, I have no idea.
Raby is right, YOU HAVE TO PAY ATTENTION. I learned that lesson while taking apart my TV while it was on. That damn flyback transformer in an old CRT tv packs a frickin punch. I also learned it again when I touched the spark plug on my running minibike. COMMON SENSE. I guess that is even learned.
It is my opinion he didnt have the puller on the bearing correctly or he simply rushed and tried to pull it out at one shot. VS putting on some pressure and waiting for a while. Sad part about it is, You are going to have some train wrecks. It isnt anything 14 grand will not fix. Its only money and I get more on Firday.
Kyle your thread was an inspiration, and I've taken on a few projects on my old SC that I almost can't believe I attempted - but was successful in the end.
I'd like to do the same thing here, but the signs (AWD & Tip) point to bringing it to my indy and paying him to tackle it...which to me feels like giving up.
The wife (and myself) wouldn't be too happy if something catastrophic happens on my watch, even though it's not all about the $$ saved.
I agree fellas But that guys issue wasnt getting the trans out. It was pulling the bearing. I think the 4wd and the AT certainly adds some hours. But I do not think it adds to the level of difficulty or skill needed.
You have to do whats right for you. If you were closer I would certainly say. bring it over. No worse gut feeling than screwing it up more on your own.. I have a mind set, if I mess it up I have to fix it and I keep going till I am done. Its not really about the money for me as it is the enjoyment of doing it. But I can tell you the savings of doing the work on my own, has out weighed paying for my own mistakes. Im lucky that my car is a toy. If it has to sit in the garage for 6 months from a mistake,, well thats the way it got.
I hear ya, Do what is right for you
It all depends how much confidence you have in the mechanic doing the work. I have already
recommended my indi to another member here who got his damaged IMS repaired at the shop. For my
C2 Tip, my indi charged me 8.5 hours ( below $100 /hour) and he did an excellent job. Then again, my
RMS wasn't leaking and the IMS was intact. Basically coolant lines had to be capped off and braces had to be removed
to get the tranny out ( IDK if the manual trans have the same issue and if the tips have more linkage
involved for removal ....I kept the dual row as a memento ( maybe I'll give it to the buyer "if" I sell the
car or if the LN bearing "ever" fails.....). I say try to get a slightly better quote; maybe a flat rate for the
work since he's already doing two ohter cars. .02 BTW, sweet RV!!
The only difference between a C2 and a C4 is three bolts on the cardan (drive) shaft and an extra bracket you have to take off to get at them. 15-20 minutes tops. Now a Tip may be different, C2 or C4, but I can't believe that is can be that much more time.
This is Michael, the one in the post quoted above
to tell you the truth i do not know why it was so difficult to remove my bearing but i don't think pre-loading it then waiting would have done anything to aid its removal.
I am by no means an expert in mechanics but have had my fair share of experience. replacing cams, rebuilding an engine in other cars, etc.
after the center stud broke i was on the phone with LN Engineering and also talk to flat6 to get pointers on what could be going wrong. The fact that a professional mechanic is having the same issue gives me a little comfort that I did not just "botch it up"
If i were to take a wild guess i would say the first time i tried to pull the bearing the puller was not completely centered with the pulling cylinder and side loaded the bearing causing it to jam. This made it exponentially more difficult to remove. it was defiantly not a lack of force as there was no play in the bearing, so the center race was not loose. but in the end the center race broke into pieces leaving the outer race in place.
The puller has a very slight taper to it but the clearances between it and the bearing is still fairly close. and with the case protruding at least an inch past the shaft you can not see if it is centered. with the crude cardboard centering trick used the fist time i wonder if it would have pulled out fine on the first attempt.
in the end i would do it again, just for the piece of mind that my engine was not just a "ticking time bomb"
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