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YOUR RESEARCHHelp Speakers!
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Install infinity 4 channel amp
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Suggestion
If the factory amp is still in there it does not matter what the new headunit power is because you are using the factory amp and you have to check the power on that.
Leading evidence: 'Install infinity 4 channel amp' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check power' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I ended up replacing my door speakers with Focal 6/1/2 inch speakers in custom enclosures.
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Suggestion
If the factory amp is still in there it does not matter what the new headunit power is because you are using the factory amp and you have to check the power on that.
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Check power
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Suggestion
If the factory amp is still in there it does not matter what the new headunit power is because you are using the factory amp and you have to check the power on that.
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Suggestion
I wasn't impressed with the sound in my 99 996C4 Cab after replacing all the stock speakers with CDT Audio speakers (which I highly recommend) and a JL audio 4way amp.
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Suggestion
I wasn't impressed with the sound in my 99 996C4 Cab after replacing all the stock speakers with CDT Audio speakers (which I highly recommend) and a JL audio 4way amp.
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25 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T052503Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi guys,
Ok so ... I just swapped out my door speakers today for a pair of Cadence flash series 6ki, 6.5 inch. I also swapped out my head unit for a pioneer 9350SD. Hopping that this set up would at least allow my bass to be better compared to stock ... sadly no ... The bass became even worse as compared to stock. So this is what my audio shop said,
I needed to get a more powerful amp as the cadence speakers had a RMS of 75Watts while the head unit was only producing 50Watts.
My question is, would getting a more powerful amp solve the problem for having the bass go 'PIANG PIANG PIANG'? It sounds really quite hollow.
Cheers
I dont DO stereo's
if mine had not come with one it would never get one, I waited 30 years to have and to the hear this car...I can listen to that same ole music later
I would go with Alpine - I use the PDX series. Compact size and clean power delivery. I think you need at least 150 watts per channel - you can never have too much headroom.
QUOTE=ivangene;8677373]I dont DO stereo's
if mine had not come with one it would never get one, I waited 30 years to have and to the hear this car...I can listen to that same ole music later[/QUOTE]
theres only so much bass you can get out of those door speakers - i say cut to the chase and get a custom box for the rear parcel shelf
worse case... bazooka tube
You may indeed need a sub-woofer to solve your audio problem - do that, upgrade the amp and all factory speakers and your ears will notice the difference. Even in a cab, I couldn't believe the results. To do it right, it will take some work but you'll find everything you need here. Search is your friend.
For better bass money would be better spent on a sub/amp rather than an amp for your door speakers. 50W (if its a real 50W rms) is quite a bit for the door speakers - the 75W number is just a max, not a min. They should run fine with 50W.
This can be an expensive exercise if you really do it right.
I ended up replacing my door speakers with Focal 6/1/2 inch speakers in custom enclosures. I also had the Bose subwoofers removed behind the rear seats and replaced them with a single 10" Focal sub. I had a new Focal amp installed to drive them. This, combined with replacing the other speakers and the head unit, produced a remarkable upgrade in sound quality.
First off , Was the system originally factory amplified? If so when the headunit was replaced did they still use the factory amp? The door speakers in that car go into a enclorsure that is made for the factory speakers, That is why you went backwards. If you are looking to upgrade the bass you have to put some kind of sub set up in there. Unless you go to a very highend shop and have them do some fabrication on the doors , you are really not going to get any major bass upgrade by dropping speakers in there and amping them. Second thing is Cadence is a pretty generic speaker, not really a high end product. As far as infinity they are alright but again not reallly a highend product compared to whats out there. Pioneer head units are 50 peak power rms they are 20-25. You have to look at rms power when you look at amps. If the factory amp is still in there it does not matter what the new headunit power is because you are using the factory amp and you have to check the power on that. If you give me a call I can help you or at least steer you in the right direction..
John
Soundfx
[phone removed]
I just came back from a very tiring day at the audio shop ... They cut my stock speaker mounts and custom cut a piece of sound wood to custom fit the stock speaker mounts, after doing that, they hot glued the spaces and custom cut sound proofing mats and placed them around the hot glued area. They also placed sound proofing mats in the doors. The sound is noticibly better but still not up to my expectations.
I am really disappointed with this ... Really hope installing an amp would solve the problem.
Currently the car is still running on stock amp under the seat. Did not have the time to install the INFINITI 4 channel amp today.
I also found out that my dash speakers are not stock. They were replaced with MB Quarts.
Would really appreciate help on this ...
Cheers
More power isnt your issue.
Really, if you get 40 watts RMS to each speaker you are going to have plenty of power.
Here are my plans, although I have no had time to do this yet. I expect it to be plenty of power for what I want.
I bought a JVC KD-A815 this unit has a built in 30W RMS X 4, Internal active crossovers and a pre amp out for a sub.
I am going to run all my stock speaker LOCATIONS with this amp and I am going to cross it over at about 250 Hz. I will choose speakers with 102 or higher db rating.
I am then going in PROPERLY mount and install a 6.5" bazooka tube in the rear behind the rear seats. Its light weight and gives a hell of a punch. I will put 100W to it either integrated into the tube or a small single channle amp mounted in the stock location up front.
I have played with stereo stuff from my first car. Its not all about "power" its about using it smart. A bi-amp config such as this will also sound a bit cleaner and will also get you the most power out of your amps.
So with out looking like some snot nose, underwear showing snot nose brat with big *** speaker in the back... It will look pretty stock other than the tube.. and for ****s and giggles I may paint the tube blue and put NOS on it.
According to my audio shop, i do have a stock amp somewhere in my car and it is under powered and thus my 6.5' door speakers are not performing to expectations. The door speakers need at least 75 RMS and currently i am producing probably only 50 RMS.
I have spent too much time but not enough results .... I really dont wanna put in an amp and get marginal performance gains from the speakers.
Cheers
once you put the amp in there you are going to get alittle better sound but thats about it. Those are not bass speakers. I have been doing high end car audio for 30years. Find another shop. Does not sound like they are familiar with porsche amplified systems. First I would have never used cadence as an upgrade and I would have used a much higher end product in that car. Focal , hybrid, morel, so on so on. You are beating a dead horse , sorry to say.
the 75W rms is a MAX rate.. Not a minimum rate.. One watt will drive those speaker. In fact a db rate is based on 1 watt at one meter when they spec the speaker. Iv looked into the door speaker and the enclosure and the specs are really all wrong to get any real bass out of them.. Make them a mid range or forget them all together. The physics just isnt there to get any type of bass out of them. And the 75WRMS is prolly continous. So you should really run a 150W rms amp if you want to be efficent and not clip the amp. this will give you plenty of "head room" for the boom. and then also is that 75 watts open air or in an air tight enclosure. So many factors really.... if you want some bass.. Toss in a tube.
Just installed infinity 4 channel amp. It is powering the 6.5" cadence speakers and a 8" sub in a custom built box at the rear seat. Dash speakers and rear panel speakers are powered by stock 6x40w haes amp.
Finally the speakers in my car sounds decent ...
I wasn't impressed with the sound in my 99 996C4 Cab after replacing all the stock speakers with CDT Audio speakers (which I highly recommend) and a JL audio 4way amp. I ended up putting two 4 way amps (planet audio) and a CDT Audio sub in the passenger Bose sub compartment (...yes it was customized to fit). The sound is now amazing with the top up or down, although I have to change settings for top up versus down. As an aside, I put in a 20farad capacitor too....which seems to help the battery drain I was experiencing with the new bass.
