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YOUR RESEARCHEver had the dead battery/locked trunk problem?
Reported repair
Install charger
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1
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Reported fix
There lies the cable for the hood latch...quick tug on the cable, popped the hood, removed battery dust cover installed charger and problem solved !!
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I also just replaced my battery with a Duralast 48-DL from Autozone.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
Cost-plus is only one formula for pricing, and probably the rarest.
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Suggestion
Gotta check the manual to make sure, but there is some sort of latch mechanism located toward the front of the front-left fender well.
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I did today. Left the car for two weeks, prior to which it had been subjected to a lot of short trips... came home to find the battery too weak to turn over the engine. The front trunk latch was, of course, inoperable.
I attached jumper cables and got it started, but the trunk still wouldn't open (jumping it is supposed to resolve this, but...). I'd read about the emergency latch in the wheel well, but didn't relish scraping off the winter stalactites to get at it. On a hunch, I locked the car using the remote, and then unlocked it again. Presto... trunk latch worked.
Just thought I'd share, in case it's helpful to anyone down the road!
Bruce, good info. Good to know!
My battery was one its last leg (or cell if you will) and cranking slowly. So I went to Autozone before it died and got a new battery (
Duralast 48-DL
) for $80. Good to go!
BTW - the Autozone software gives the Duralast 49-DL as the replacement battery, which is incorrect. The 49-DL battery is too long by about 1" and covers up the bolt hole for the hold down clamp. The
Duralast 48-DL
is the correct battery.
What is the logic from Porsche for restricting trunk access in the case of a dead battery?
Does anyone know if this "logic" is in place in the 99's?
BTW, Thanks, Tim, on the Duralast info. MY CR rates Durolast the best battery for the buck in 2006.
You're not supposed to attach jumper cables directly to the battery. There are contacts in the engine compartment designed especially to accept them, and the engine compartment is always accessible.
So does my '00. In fact, the latch is manual, but it's disabled when the car is locked and the alarm is armed. I don't know about 99s, but the trunk latch is as good as electric on a 2000, if there's no juice.
Are you sure? If it is, I dont understand how, it is a cable directly to the latch? How do you pull the lever if the car is armed anyways, the door is closed?
Advice please...
My battery is 4 years old and never a problem. Is it a good idea to replace it BEFORE I have to (and while I can drive the car)? From what I've been reading, 4 years is about it for these batteries.
100%. The latch only operates with the key off and the door open. It's inoperable when the car is running and the door is shut, but it's definitely not electronically actuated.
Agreed. Yes, the car was locked because it's an underground parking lot. But I don't think the battery was that strong to begin with. A fresh one would probably not be a bad investment...
If my memory serves, the latch can not be physically pulled with the door closed. What I am confused is you are saying with the engine running or the battery has zero charge, the lever will not open the trunk? So, there is a mechanism that disables the lever? Because I dont remember seeing anything around the latch itself when I pulled the front bumper off?
Mike, that may not be a bad idea, because winters are hard on batteries. However, if you are not noticing any change in battery performance, you may not need to replace it.
I have had 4 or 5 batteries crap out on me over the years and here are some first hand observations about the difference between "maintenance free" (sealed) and "non-maintenance free" (you can/should add water to the cells). These observations are based upon cars being driven almost every day, so these observations may be different from "garage queen" cars (and we ALL know who I am specifically referring to here, don't we!).
The good thing about
non
"maintenance free" batteries is that they usually have given me a warning (slow or sluggish cranking power) that they were near the end of the life cycle. This happened to my battery about a week ago.
However, "maintenance free" batteries are not that way. They just die suddenly with no warning. I have had two "maintenance free" batteries do this, which I thought was quite rude!
I also just replaced my battery with a Duralast 48-DL from Autozone.
Great battery at a great price.
875 cranking amps @32f, 700 CCA, RC=110 min. 37lbs. $74.94
These are the same specs as the Sears 48, except the Sears weighs 41lbs and retails for $129.99.
The only downside to the 48-DL is that it has only 24 month Full Replacement Warranty. The Sears and Advance Auto 48's have 36month Full Replacement.
1999-2000 has mechanical levers in the door sills. When the door is closed you cannot raise the levers.
When you set the alarm a metal cam operated by a solenoid rotates into position under the levers, so you cannot raise the levers. If the car battery dies while the alarm is set the cam is still in the lock position, so you cannot raise the levers.
Interesting Tim.. Autozone does not have uniform pricing. I may have to call several stores for pricing next time. IIRC, 48-DL was cheaper than 49-DL in my store by about $10 and still more expensive than your prices.
Most national chains have regional pricing strategies. This allows them to adjust their prices based upon regional pay scales, distribution costs, real estate costs, and pricing structures of their competition.
In general, all of the aforementioned costs would be higher on the east and west coast than in the central US, so east and west coast pricing will reflect the higher operating costs. While the gross margin (markup) percent would be higher than in the central US, the net profit probably would be comparable across the entire country.
Gotta check the manual to make sure, but there is some sort of latch mechanism located toward the front of the front-left fender well. There is some sort of access hole that you can get to it, but you have to peel back the protective covering. Someone who knows can tell you for sure.
Both levers are locked tight? With mine, once I unlocked the car with the key, just the trunk lever was locked.
Hmmm. Well, there's an emergency release cable behind the right front wheel well. It would open the trunk for you, and you could attach jumper cables to the battery, allowing you to disarm the alarm and get everything else opened up. Try a search for details. I'd do it for you, but wifey is waiting in the driveway...
Just had to do this a couple days ago. (go ahead and snicker) Parked it in reverse, and had a couple weeks where I was out of town. That, and it was -4F at the time.
The key manually unlocked the door. I popped open the panel by my left foot and attached the battery charger. I figured it would charge up in a few hours... and I was wrong. It had just enough juice to pop the trunk and was not allowing the 6A charger bring it back.
Once I popped the hood, I had access to the battery. Jumped the car, pulled it into my garage, and charged up the battery.
Just a word to the wise... if you can get to the engine compartment, that is by far the better way to jump the car. There's a post for the negative clamp to the right of the strike plate for the hood latch. The post for the positive clamp is behind a little black plastic door a bit north of there. Attaching cables back there will get everything working. It's all in the manual.
OK HERE'S THE DEAL !! On my 99 the levers are mechanical not electric, BUT when you lock the car with the remote a locking pin locks the release levers. I unlocked the door with the key (not remote) cause battery was dead, open panel on fuse cover, used a phillips head screw driver and removed the 4 screws holding the fuse panel in and WALLLA !! There lies the cable for the hood latch...quick tug on the cable, popped the hood, removed battery dust cover installed charger and problem solved !!
Quite possibly. Cost-plus is only one formula for pricing, and probably the rarest. Bigger influences are things like demand, how much retailer density there is, how many competitors there are in a given region and how 'competitive' they are (anti-trust laws aside, it's amazing how cooperative competitors can be in some product categories), and what a market will simply tolerate. Pricing is a black art.
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