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YOUR RESEARCHIs It Safe with Just the Rear End Lifted?
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Install pse, and it worked great
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
This is the way I did it when I installed my PSE, and it worked great.
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Leading evidence: 'Install pse, and it worked great' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'equivalent of 10hp gain' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Install pse, and it worked great' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
If you get rid of them, that's probably the equivalent of 10HP gain!
Replace rear tire, let car down onto wood block, switch
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Suggestion
Replace rear tire, let car down onto wood block, switch to other side and repeat.
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Suggestion
If the rear wheels are up on rams you can set the emergency brake.
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I'm getting ready to jack the rear of my car up and place it on jackstands, leaving the front wheels on the ground.
I will be working under the rear end, removing my mufflers, and I am wondering if it is safe to have the car inclined on one end.
I expect some twisting and pulling with the mufflers, and am concerned with the stability of the car on the 2 jackstands on the rear end.
I just want to have some reassurance from those of you who may have done this.
I will definitely be choking the front wheels.
Do I need to engage the parking brake? Does that help, or do those only affect the rear wheels?
Perhaps I should also place some bricks or pieces of wood under the tires, just in case the car slips off the jackstands?
Thank You All!
Is It Safe with Just the Rear End Lifted?
I'll ask my wife.
I've done this with front and rear... just make sure you don't damage the front end if you're going to jack it up high.
No, it's not very safe. As mentioned above, the park brake will not keep the car from rolling and obviously putting the car in gear will have no effect. At a minimum make sure you do a very good job of blocking the front tires. Also, put the car on stands but leave the jack under the engine.
Well I think the only answers you are going to get here are from people that say it is not safe, for those that thought it was safe, well they cannot reply
My experience when wanting to do this with other cars is to jack the entire car up and support it with very sturdy stands in great places. By only having the back jacked-up, leaving the jack under the car is a good precaution. The chocks in front and behind the front wheels are good to do also, use real chocks not pieces of wood IMHO. Yep the parking brake and in gear won't do a thing for you.
Better yet, use a lift
If you are just going to remove the mufflers,then driving the rear wheels up on ramps instead may be easier and safer. If the rear wheels are up on rams you can set the emergency brake. You should still block the front wheels.
You will want to remove the bumper cover and the muffler heat shields to make it easy to get at the mufflers. (10 minutes tops for this step)
This is the way I did it when I installed my PSE, and it worked great.
Well, I think you are right, SD...so much for lawsuit-happy America!
I just wanted opinions, especialy from those who have done it that way.
I wouldn't blame anyone if the car fell off and crushed me!?
I'm going ahead with it, can't wait, I keep hearing those cans screaming to be taken off....
Thanks for the pics, Gary! Wow, that would be great...with all that room to work around.
I will jack the car up first and look at the situation, if I can do without the bumper removal,
I'll skip that step. But that does look really easy with everything out of the way.
FYI...I did my muffler swap out on a lift and did not have to remove the bumper. Only had to roll the car back until the ramps of the lift did not block the area to drop the mufflers out of. GL and be safe.
OK... I did the muffler swap with only the rear end on stands and the front wheels chocked...... The important thing to remember is to CHOCK the wheels......... IMHO Flame suit on and zipped.....
Also it is very helpful to remove the rear tires to extract the stock cans when doing the muffler swap.
One way is to put the rear of the car up on jack stands, take off the rear wheels, and manhandle the mufflers off.
The other way is to drive the rear wheels up on ramps, remove the bumper cover and muffler heat shields, and then remove the mufflers.
In both cases, the muffler bracket requires you to crawl under the engine to get at the 3 bolts on each bracket. The number of screws or bolts to remove is a wash for both methods.
I prefer the 2nd method simply because it is easier to install and align the new mufflers with the bumper cover and heat shields out of the way.
For a 996 muffler swap,I chock the front wheels, jack up the car using the rear jacking points, in front of the rear tire. Put a 4x10 block under each rear wheel. Jack up one side enough to remove the rear tire. Remove/ replace one muffler. Replace rear tire, let car down onto wood block, switch to other side and repeat.
Ok, I ended up buying a pair of ramps from Walmart, and went with Orient Express's recommendation.
But I didn't remove the wheels, nor did I remove the bumper cover.
And I was very surprised it only took me a whole 37 minutes to remove both mufflers!
Well, actually it could be 35 mins, I had to go inside to get my eye goggles, and applied some eyedrops,
got some dirt in my eyes in the process of the removal, but of course!
The cans slid right off, downwards, with a little wiggling, I wonder if it could be due to the couple of inches extra on the widebody?
Anyway, the only pain was the single nut towards the rear, that was in a really tight spot, I was turning barely 1/8 of a turn at a time!
And I was surprised those cans are that Heavy! I couldn't imagine just by looking at the pics.
If you get rid of them, that's probably the equivalent of 10HP gain!
So, tomorrow morning, I'm off to search for a surgeon...Oooh...can't wait.
And I'm going in my Chevy S10 truck...bet you it'll be cheaper to weld them now!
I think you are probably correct in you assumption that the widebody made it possible for you to remove the "cans" without removing the wheels. I do not think I coould have removed the mufflers on my C2 without removing the wheels.
I removed the mufflers on my C4 without needing to remove the wheels. It was a bit tight as I had to push the bumper cover out a bit to get the muffler bolts to clear.
I did not have access to a lift, so I put the car on jack stands. There was not much room to move around so it would have been very difficult with the wheels still on the car.
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