Reman engine installed - question...

Manhattan Porsche seems clueless as to the answers to these questions even though they installed the engine.... - What fluids were NOT changed in the course of replacing the engine? Do I have new tranny fluid? brake fluid? - being that this is a 0 mile engine - should I change the oil sooner then normal? (+/-4k miles on it now) - abit unrelated, Its a c2 + tip. in stoplight speeds, hitting the button to get it into 1st produces a loud clunk - normal? thanks.

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My reman is 1.4K miles 'old'. Installer said to change the oil in 4k miles. You likely do not have new tranny or brake fluid. I can't recall if mine clunks or not downshifting manually at slow speeds. I will check during next drive. I'm interested in getting one of Jakes upgraded/updated drain plugs with the magnet and the spin-on oil filtre adaptor soon. I am also tempted to drop my oil pan and check for sealant chunks around the pickup screen soon too. 'Cept I just drained the oil last weekend and replaced with fresh M1 0-40. If I could figure out how to drain the oil and keep this 'new' oil, I'd do that so I'm still mulling over when to drop my pan. I did pressure flush my brakes recently due to what I thought was a soft pedal and got some pretty big bubbles blurping out of of either the inboard or outboard(can't remember 'which' it was but I thought it was odd that all 4 wheels had the same 'air' issue in the calipers) calipers on all four wheels. While I am flushing I lightly tap the caliper being flushed with a plastic mallet to help coax air into moving out Pedal feel is better now, but I still think the pedal feels like a Ford Taurus pedal - NOTHING like the 993 or earlier cars. But they do haul the car down fast tho.

My TIP (04 C4S) clunks going into 1st gear only when going about 1-5 miles an hour. It does not clunk at a stop and I can (but don't) downshift into first going 5 miles an hour or faster. As far as changing the fluids, I don't see why not at least change out the tranny fluid, sometimes, when the tranny is out of the car, you can completely drain out all the fluid and refresh it with new fluid ( I was advised to do this on my MBZ when I replaced the RMS), Also changing out the coolant is not a big deal as well.

My WAG is no fluids are changed unless you specifically request it be done during time car in shop for engine swap. Brakes are not messed with and tranny comes out with no need to drain any fluids. Paperwork for engine replacement should list any fluids changed as part of engine swap if any fluids changed. As for when to change the oil I'd change it long before 4000 miles. New engines are quite dirty and shed lots of metal debris. Now a reman engine may not be factory fresh but may have been used and has already shed the majority of its new engine debris long ago. Even so, I'd change the oil/filter at least at end of "break-in" or 2000 miles. Then I'd change it again at 5000 miles and every 5000 miles thereafter. Try to pick oil change mileages that get engine in step with odometer. That is, if odometer reads 13K miles (just a number) change oil at 15K miles which is 2K miles on new engine, then at 20K, 25K and so on. If odometer at 10K miles change oil at 12K miles then again at 15K miles, 20K miles, and so on. Sincerely, Macster.

I have a 2001 996 with Tip, I do not have any clunk when down shifting at any speed.

I think you're throwing around the "like a taurus" thing a bit lightly. Having driven dozens of Porsches, the pedal in the 996 should be as stiff as any other, if everything is in working order. Remember you have multiple times the brake volume of some earlier cars due to multiple circuits/abs pump, etc. If anything, the 996 should have a firmer brake pedal. BTW, go drive a "non sports car" for comparison, if it's not night and day, something is wrong...

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Pedal is not firm at all. Brake lines were pressure bled at 15 psi, maybe I should 'up' the pressure to 19 psi and try it again? Ok - maybe Taurus was a bad comparison - how about Chevy Caprice??? I need to do a comparison with some other 996's...

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Your brake pedal with a fresh flush should be nearly rock hard. In the manual cars to do a proper flush you do flush the clutch while flushing the brake system as they connected.

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I think recommendation is pressure bleeder pressure should stay below 21psi and given the potential inaccuracy of the pressure bleeder pressure gage I'd stay well below the 21psi. Be very sure there are no air pockets/bubbles in line from pressure bleeder to brake fluid reservoir. Use plenty of fresh/clean fluid. One doesn't want to scrimp on fluid. The idea is to flush all old fluid out of system. Brake fluid no good to you in half filled can after brake fluid flush. Did you follow recommended order in opening bleed screws? Remember too there are inner and outer bleed screws on each caliper. Did you view fluid and wait until you saw clear brake fluid emerge before closing bleed screw? I did several brake fluid flushes with pressure bleeder and while this good for flushng system I found best technique is to have assistant pump up brake pedal pressure and open bleed screw to let a bit of fluid be forced out. If car older remember you on bleeder screw wrench must open/close screw so pedal doesn't travel any distance beyond its normal travel. You want to avoid helper pressing brake pedal all way down. If this happens this puts brake piston in master cylinder into area of cylinder not used by piston and this area can be corroded a bit and this corrosion can damage piston seal and compromise brake action, feel. If you get air in brake lines you may have to take car to dealer which can use diagnostics computer to activate ABS pump to flush brake fluid with air from the ABS system. Once you are satisfied with brake pedal feel then last don't forget to flush/bleed clutch slave cylinder. This a bit different cause you want pedal to go almost to floor before you close bleed screw. You'll have to manually lift pedal up of floor after closing bleed screw and before you can do another bleed step. Always watch brake fluid level and for air pockets. If you get any air in system you'll have to start all over again and as I mentioned above if any air gets into ABS system this can only be removed at dealer. Sincerely, Macster.

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I have had great luck bleeding brakes on all my porsches using about 19psi. With a pressure bleeder I have never had to use an 'assistant' to pump the pedal and always ended up with a firm pedal. For some reason this 996 has very mushy pedal and I'm guessing that it might be ABS or master cylinder related. I got all the air out of both sides of all 4 calipers, starting with the right rear of course. Also, when starting out from a fresh start when just taking the parking brake off or sometimes even after stopping or in the parking lot, it sounds as if the calipers (rears) are not totally released for a sec due to a funny groaning sound. Maybe I'll bleed again...

Just reporting my experience and the caution IIRC from manual against using too much pressure in power bleeder. If you get good results using power bleeder at 19psi that's great. I've had my 02 Boxster's brakes bleed at least once at dealer and this includes ABS system and clutch system. Brake pedal feel and clutch pedal action very much improved. A bleed session with a power bleeder with or without an assistant ok but I think once in a while a bleed session at dealer that sees the whole brake/clutch hydraulic system flushed/bled a good thing. Sincerely, Macster.

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I only have ABS and it feels really soft - almost like a master cylinder that's going bad. But maybe they are simply full of air. I'll try it again next weekend - gotta' spend the week in Colorado Springs...

I'll dig up the service papers to see if it says anything about the fluids... brakes were changed by PO 7500 miles back but nothing in the papers about a fluid flush. I'll be getting the oil changed next week just to be safe... the car now has 85000 miles so if I cant find anything in the paperwork re brake fluid change - I'll do that as well. When does the tranny fluid need changing? 100k? thanks PS my mechanic works on various makes but not typically Porsches since there are not many around. Would you trust an experienced mechanic with the above flush-n-fills even though he probably has not done this on a 996 before? has has maintained my Land Rover, BMW and Infiniti previously.

the work order doesnt specifically say what was changed (aside from AC recharge) but the parts list inclides 1L or pentosin, 1L or transmission oil, and 2L or brake fluid. Does the tip in an 02 996 take just 1L or oil? there is no indication of gaskets so maybe it was just to top it off? does the brake system take 2L? or is that again a top off? thanks

Make sense they had to add more PS fluid, as the lines gets disconnected you have loose the fluids. Transmission oil is for the differential, for TIPs I believe it is only 1 quart. On the TIPs they don't have the clutch slave cylinder so probably wouldn't loose any brake fluid when you change the engine, but it was good they flushed the brake fluids while they were at it. The brake system takes less than 2L, but it is a good practice to use 2L to flush out the system.