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YOUR RESEARCHPPI done - some questions
Leading reported evidence
Replace four a year later
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I wound up replacing all four a year later on my own nickel.
Leading evidence: 'Replace four a year later' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'bulb' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair bill' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When I bought my MY2000, the dealer only replaced the left rear that had a slow leak.
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The RMS was "weeping" - no actual drops and it had already been replaced once by the previous owner.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
All the details are in my post "Nice C2 on Long Island", probably a page down.
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Suggestion
I had the ignition problem you describe and the front end wobble around 65 to 70mph - the ignition required replacing (the problem can lead to also having your battery drained completely) and I needed new rims on the front (this was addressed after two alignments and tire balancing failed to cure the problem) - I would not buy the car until THEY fix the wobble.
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36 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I had the car dealer drop the '00 911 C2 I posted about at the Porsche dealer (Porsche of Roslyn), and the service guy called me to give me a report.
Rear tires need replacing
Ignition switch sticks a little? Already order the part for $15 on ebay! (thanks Rennbay!)
Steering wheel shimmys at 65-70 (balancing, or bent rim?)
Dome light out - probably a bulb.
And the big one--drum roll....RMS has a slight leak, very minor, he says.
Other than that, no over-revs, no fault codes, or other issues. No paint or body work. Brakes and clutch are fine, and he says it's a "really good car".
So as long as the dealer replaces the rear tires (Conti Sport 2's are on there now), balances the front tires, do I push the RMS leaking issue? $1,000 worth of labor for what he will say is a minor leak. Since the car has only 17k miles, waiting to do the clutch might take 4 years! That's a lot of oil on the floor of the garage.
What do you think??
Sounds like a good car. I would not worry about the RMS. I bought a 99C2 18 months ago. The RMS was "weeping" - no actual drops and it had already been replaced once by the previous owner.
I had similar mileage on mine at the time. Since I bought the car I've put 10,000 miles on it and the RMS magically stopped "weeping". Hopefully just regularly driving the car will help you as well.
Good luck!
Have him fix the RMS. If you're trying to get a perfect car and paying a premium for it, make sure it really is perfect. Offer to meet him halfway if it becomes a sticking point - the car sounds awesome and you should get if you like it
but the warranty company is not likely to pay for a problem that you already know about - its a pre-existing condition. they may never find out but they might just. too big a risk. fix it or carry the risk.
can u buy an aftermarket warranty for a MY2000 car?
Ignition switch is a very common issue. search for the fix. DYI is an hour + ~$30 part from audi.
RMS has a slight leak? is it weeping or dropping?
any prior RMS fix?
if not, i would do it now, since the word on the street is the new design seal works
if the car has multiply RMS fix, then i would think twice before i hand over the money. at least, i would pick up some cardboard in home depot prior taking delivery.
All the details are in my post "Nice C2 on Long Island", probably a page down. Dealer wants $39.9, down from a high $43.9.
No previous RMS fixes, or engine replacements.
I had the ignition problem you describe and the front end wobble around 65 to 70mph - the ignition required replacing (the problem can lead to also having your battery drained completely) and I needed new rims on the front (this was addressed after two alignments and tire balancing failed to cure the problem) - I would not buy the car until THEY fix the wobble. The RMS is not a big deal to me, but driving a Porsche that wasn't smoothe at speed drove me insane for a couple months. Once the new rims were on, it drives so smoothe and tight well past 100mph.
You can always try to get them to do the RMS, pay half, or just go for it anyway. The main message is that it's not so serious and you'll probably end up doing an RMS at some point anyway - better to know about it, than be surprised.
Most warranties do not cover seals, but some do. The point about the pre-existing condition is a valid one.
for the front-end floating:
here what i went though:
1. balance all 4 wheels. much better, but still slightly wondering.
2. replace a faulty front lower control arm. a little better. but the problem still there.
3. change the front tire to the right size. a little better. but the problem still there.
my next step will be pss9 or m030 when i have time.
So, if the dealer does the rear tires, half the people here are saying forget the RMS, it's not that much of an issue. The other half are saying make the dealer pay.
What to do. He did say there are no leaks. PPI says "oil leaking from main seal". So, there IS an oil leak. I'll see what the seller says.
It IS a nice car.
Depends on who your warranty is with. Mine and many of the ones I looked at when I bought my car did not. I guess you got lucky, who issued your warranty?
Mine is with Autosource and no, it's not bumper to bumper.
http://www.aswarranty.com/plans.shtml#platinum
Milage varies from place to place. I'm not sure that many places give bumper to bumper anymore.
Andy, I bought my car from Roslyn as well. Make them fix the seal. I did not have a good experience with them. I blame most of my issues on the previous GM who is now at Huntington I think.
You could look at it this way...
You are paying a premium price. The car should be perfect.
39.9 + 1000 RSM + 650 Tire + 1000 Rim and let the rest slide=$42550
So the real deal is 43.9-42.6=$1300 off the car
Get it all fixed and then it's a good deal again
Good point Aaron, although I'm not sure the car needs a new rim. If the car was priced at $36k, it would be another story. But at a premium, I shouldn't have to pay up to make the car worthy of the price.
Also, I am NOT buying the car from Porsche of Roslyn. They just did the PPI. I am buying from Select Autos, a premium independant dealer in Deer Park.
I'm a little confused (actually a normal state for me
)...
I thought the dealer was going to CPO the car (?). To pass the CPO inspection, they might have to fix the RMS. I'm pretty sure that if you bought a CPO car that developed an RMS leak, the CPO warranty would cover the repair.
With regards to the tires and 65-70 mph shimmy, I would have four fresh tires put on the car. When I bought my MY2000, the dealer only replaced the left rear that had a slow leak. The car only had 7700 miles on it and the original rubber. I wound up replacing all four a year later on my own nickel. Hindsight, I would have had them do all four before I took delivery.
Now is the time to get the car right. You are in the best negotiating position. Once you sign the papers and get handed the keys, it will be a different story.
No this is NOT a Porsche dealer I am buying from. It's an independant dealer on Long Island. They brought the car to Porsche for PPI only.
He is agreeing to buy new rear tires. Not sure he would buy tires all around since the PPI stated the rear tires were worn, not the fronts.
Sorry, I missed the original thread on this car.
The shimmy could be a bent rim, but likely it's just the front rubber. Although the PPI didn't call for replacing the fronts, do you know how long these have been on the car? The original rubber on my car had become hard and was making a lot of road noise. Hence my decision to replace them after a year. And of course brand new rubber made a huge difference in all aspects of the car.
The tires are Conti Sport 2's. Not sure how old they are, but I assume the car came stock with Pirellis? So, since the rear tires already need replacing, unless the car came with the Conti Sports, this will be the 3rd set of rear tires, in 17k miles.
Unusual?
Not necessarily. I got 8,600 miles out of my first set of rear Pirelli P-Zeros and 9,800 out of the second set. So at 18,400 miles, the 3rd set of rear tires (not P-Zeros) went on the car.
I would push for a deduction in price over the RMS so you can have it fixed. A minor RMS is nothing to worry about but you should definitely play it up when you try and agree on a price. How do they expect you to buy a car from them that is going to leave an oil spot on your driveway the first week you have it? Also if they put new tires on it, make sure the tires they install match the fronts and have an N rating. I could just see them try and go cheap and stick some crappo tires on the rear to save themselves a few bucks.
I'm thinking of getting a better price on aftermarket warranty coverage (dealer pays half of a 1 or 2 year policy), which would cover the RMS if it got bad. It would also cover any major problems. The rear tires would have to match - Conti Sport 2's. Unless I take the $500 as a credit, and buy all new rubber on my own?
The RMS issue could be a $1k fix, but remember that before they intall the new seal they will perform a test on the engine, if the car fails you will need a new engine..trust me, thats what happened to me... make them fix the RMS before you get the car!
That's why I want at least a year warranty. If the RMS gets worse in a few months, I can bring it to my local Porsche dealer, have them check it out. If it needs a new engine instead of the 997 seal fix, at least I am under warranty.
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