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YOUR RESEARCHCoil Replacement
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I replaced the bolts on the bracket, the muffler clamps and the bolts that Pete highlighted with stainless steel so they won't rust again.
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I swapped my cat for a by-pass every other year after each smog test.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I got all of the coils and plugs replaced except for the passenger side furthest back.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used ss nuts and bolts on my 81 911 for cat attachments.
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Suggestion
Stainless steel isn't recommended for exhaust bolts because it has a tendency to gall when heated which could make them impossible to separate in the future.
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After getting my P030 misfire code last week I got my new coils and plugs and started to replace them today. First comment: what a PITA!!! I finally took some of the advice here and pulled my mufflers. I broke nearly every rusted bolt trying to get them off. I don't really consider that a bad thing as I'll replace all of them with stainless steel. Is anyone else here shocked at the fact that Porsche put such crappy hardware in the places that get subjected to the elements the most? How much would that have increased the cost of our cars? $100? OK done ranting....
I got all of the coils and plugs replaced except for the passenger side furthest back. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get to that one? I tried every configuration of tools in my arsenal but I can't even get to my hand up to the electrical connector to unplug it, let alone figure out how to I would get the coil and plug out.
Any and all advice it GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thanks in advance.
Did you see the ratcheting bit driver I suggested in the other thread you just posted in? Even though you have hex instead of torx, you can use it with the right hex bit.
pfbz..yes I saw it...searching for one today thanks
aviography...I took the mufflers off but I couldn't see how to take the bracket off...2 bolts at the bottom..but the top seems to just go into the top of the engine somewhere...can't see anything and can't get my hand up there to feel anything...
What bolts did you break? The cans just have 3 nuts each and the cans are off. The only other hardware to loosen are the ones by the cats. You snapped those?
Big shout out to pfbz!!! Found this little set at Lowes...if you don't have one and you plan on doing your coils...go get it. It comes with a number of torx bits as well as a 4mm and 5mm allen. I needed the 5mm allen and the ratchet is just the right size to be able to work within the pace behind the muffler bracket. So after a little patience and having this tool, I was able to finish the coils and plugs...now it's on to figuring out all of the bolts I need to replace!! Thanks to all for the advice.
Is your car MK II? My is Mk I, unless there is a difference between the 3.4L and 3.6L on how the muffler brackets are secured to the engine block.
There are 3 bolts securing the muffler bracket to another bracket on the side of the engine block, that bracket does not have to come off from the engine block.
See Figure 9 of this Pelican Parts link
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
How about the heat shield plate, I assume you took that off? You must have because you can't get to even the other coil packs if you didn't.
It's been two years since I worked on the coil packs, so I don't recall how exactly I got to the fasteners for the coil packs, but I certainly don't remember it being difficult at all, and I didn't get any special tools, just used the tools I had in hand.
Couple of different 'brackets', I think this is what is confusing a few...
The small intermediate bracket (#23) comes off with the muffler when you remove those three nuts/studs in a triangular pattern. If you reverse the long muffler bolts (#24 & #25) after the first time you pull the muffler,, then you can leave bracket #23 in place and just remove the long bolts the next time you need to pull the mufflers.
The large exhaust bracket (#17) is what makes changing the rear plugs and coil packs a huge PITA. I've never had mine off, but my understanding is that is it not easy to get to the upper bolts
Thanks for the help on the tools. I was wondering why the pasenger side was more dificult? I can tell that this is going to be a PITA project, but I will have the time over the holidays to do it. I'm ording parts this week. I've already added the tool recomendation from pfbz and will pull the mufflers to see what I'm doing. Any other tips?
Pre Spray the 5 bolts/nuts that you are going to have to remove to remove the mufflers with PB or something...do it liberally and let it sit...do it again and let it sit...do it again and let it sit..Not sure if that would have prevented me from snapping so many (I did spray and let it sit but only once)...otherwise...invest in some good drill bits to drill out the broken bolts!
Thanks for the help with tools. I found the same Kobalt Bit Driver set (AKA - Porsche tool) online. I now have all of the parts and tools sitting in my garage ready for the job. Planning to work on it between Christmas and New Years. Cheers!
Johnny,
I just put everything back together today...take Pete's advice and put separate your muffler from the bracket and put the bracket back on with the three bolts. Then put the muffler on with the bolts that Pete has highlighted going up from the bottom. It's a bit of a pain to get the muffler back in but this way, if you decide to remove it again it will be easy. I replaced the bolts on the bracket, the muffler clamps and the bolts that Pete highlighted with stainless steel so they won't rust again. If you need any advice, shoot me a PM..not that I'm a great mechanic, but since I just did it, I might be able to help...
Thanks. I have new muffler brackets and will wait to see what my bolts look like. This was a southern car until last year and I don't drive on salty PA roads (visual inspection looks good).... But I'll make that call once I have it all apart.
One last question I have after reading your posts. How did you manage to get to that last electrical connector? Now that I have the tool I know how to get to the bolts, but was there a trick for the electrical connector and coil/plug removal? Thanks for all of your help and congratulations on completing you project.
I have my mufflers off just waiting for new coil packs to arrive before I can finish the same job. My muffler bolts (24 and 25 in the diagram) are all in rough shape. I was considering changing to stainless for the same reason but after a lot of googling I found that it might not be a great idea. Stainless steel isn't recommended for exhaust bolts because it has a tendency to gall when heated which could make them impossible to separate in the future. It also doesn't have nearly the same tensile strength as high grade steel. Stainless should definitely be avoid for manifold bolts due to the temperature although for the muffler bolts here I highly doubt they get hot enough to be a problem.
A better solution is likely to use stainless bolts with brass nuts to solve the galling problem.
I'm still on the fence and may have to just buy the highly-overpriced Porsche bolts since I can't seem to find the right sized bolts locally. If anyone has bought any of the long (70mm and 140mm) bolts in SS with brass nuts and is willing to share please let me know :-)
I used ss nuts and bolts on my 81 911 for cat attachments. I swapped my cat for a by-pass every other year after each smog test. I had no problems with them over the 7 years I did this.
Johnny..that last connector is a bear to say the least...but I was able to carefully push the rubber cover up with a screwdriver and then pressed the connector with the same..you can just barely get a finger on each side to slide it back on and make the connection...it's slow and tedious, but it can be done...
kgoertz...yes I read all of the same things about stainless bolts on the exhaust...but the fact of the matter is that if you buy an good aftermarket exhaust (fabspeed, borla, etc) they all come with stainless steel so while it may be an issue, most manufacturers still use it so I'm taking my chances...the worst thing that can happen is that I have to cut the clamps or bolts off if I ever need to replace something...btw...I got my 140 and 70 mm M8 bolts from boltdepot.com in stainless steel..I couldn't find M10 carriage bolts for the exhaust so I ended up just putting in 3/8" which fit fine
Interesting. I was trying to find out if the worry about SS bolts was based on evidence or theory. It sounds like it might not be a problem in practice in which case it is worth the upgrade to avoid having the bolts rust to pieces.
nymart - I ended up not removing the mufflers. I have a factory sport exhaust system and it has a motorized control assemble connected to the pipes. It looked a little confusing to disconnect so I started on the driver side with just the bumper and heat shield removed. After completing that I moved on to the passenger side. That passenger rear was a real PITA! The Kobalt ratchet bit tool was a life saver!
Thanks for the help!