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YOUR RESEARCHBrakes and SS lines
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Run into the same problem described above
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I will be switching to RBF 600 this year, I ran motul 600 in my e46 m3 and occasionally ran into the same problem described above.
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I ran Michelin PS2s on both cars (245f/275r)M3 and (235f/295r) 996.
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I will be switching to RBF 600 this year, I ran motul 600 in my e46 m3 and occasionally ran into the same problem described above.
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Suggestion
The C4S OEM pads, rotors, and ATE gold/blue worked well for me all the way to to black run groups.
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Suggestion
If you already have a lot of track seat time and running with the crazies in the black run groups, I suggest a set of OEM pads for the street and swap Pagid yellows for the track.
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Suggestion
If you already have a lot of track seat time and running with the crazies in the black run groups, I suggest a set of OEM pads for the street and swap Pagid yellows for the track.
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Suggestion
If you already have a lot of track seat time and running with the crazies in the black run groups, I suggest a set of OEM pads for the street and swap Pagid yellows for the track.
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Suggestion
I've used every brake fluid that is discussed here on RL and from personal experience (and that of my track day colleagues) ATE is the bottom of the barrel fluid if you using it for the application of tracking the car.
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It is almost time for a brake job for the car so I am looking for opinions on different options. Of course Porsche is known for their phenominal systems but is there a viable option that I should also consider. The car will probably see weekend spirited driving, 7-8 autocrosses a year and probably 3-4 DEs per year. A BBK is not of consideration due to cost, I am mainly speaking of different brands of pads and rotors
Also with the stainless brake lines, I know it improves the feel substantially but I have had a terrible experience with them on my 928s in the past. Any sug/rec?
Thanks in advance
Alex,
I stick with OEM Porsche rotors and use pagid pads. I currently run pagid yellows RS19s for street and track but they squeal a lot. Any good track pads doesn't work well cold, is noisy, and usually wears rotors fast. For that reason I might suggest oem porsche sport pads. If you want to go with something more aggressive I purchased my pads from
www.renn*store.com
(no *) I use ATE supreblue fluid and would recommend that or Motul RBF 600 brake fluid.
Cheers,
-Dan
Do you still have that GTR? I'd love to see one up close.
Super blue is junk for the track. Unless of course you plan to bleed AT LEAST every day if not more. Motul is great and even better is SRF.
As far as pads, just get some track pads like the RS19's and then swap out for events and then put street pads back in after the event. Doesn't take but 30 min. once you have the process down.
Not negative, just relative to the application.
I've used every brake fluid that is discussed here on RL and from personal experience (and that of my track day colleagues) ATE is the bottom of the barrel fluid if you using it for the application of tracking the car. IIRC, super blue is a dyed version of the ATE gold fluid and is the same as the fluid that is in the car already in stock form.
If you plan to do any braking on track using something other than stock pads then you need a fluid that can handle the temps created by "race" pads. Street pads? Fine. Race pads? garbage. You can use it but unless you want to play Russian Roulette with your brakes working the use super blue and don't bleed frequently I would suggest something better like Motul or SRF.
I'd like to hear more first hand experience with stainless lines. They did make a good improvement in feel in my M3 but I can't say that I have any issues with pedal feel in the 996 at all. It's always rock solid.
Thanks for the heads up, and thank you also Dell. I will take both opinions into consideration. As for the GTR it has found a new home for the time being but will be returning early next month.
I never have problems with my brake fluid on track, it's always after I come in and the heat soaked car sits and there is no cooling. The fluid boils in my parked car and then my next session there is much greater pedal travel. I will be switching to RBF 600 this year, I ran motul 600 in my e46 m3 and occasionally ran into the same problem described above.
On a pretty wild tangent; I imagine the 996 should stop much faster than my M3 but judging by feel, and braking markers on track, this does not appear to be the case. I ran Michelin PS2s on both cars (245f/275r)M3 and (235f/295r) 996. While the M3 has more weight over the front tires under breaking, the 996 should have CLOSER to 50/50 weight distribution than the M3 under breaking. This would result in the 996 having greater available grip due to non linear traction vs. load nature of tires, and therefore be able to stop faster correct? The 996 also has significant weight advantage. Why then is the opposite true?
Andy do you agree with this?
Entry speed?
I brake about the same place with my 996 as I did in the M3 but I'd venture to say my corner entry speed is slower to get the car pointed and back on the throttle early to help balance the car. Whereas in the M3 you can plow in and let the front slide to slow down the car until it catches and then power down out of the turn. So despite the same braking markers I'm still slowing more. I'm also pretty confident my mid corner speed and exit speed is much better in the 996 which more than makes up for a few less mph on entry.
Al-x, it all depends on where you are as far as track experience goes. You can always bring an elephant gun to kill anything from a rats to elephants, but it wouldn't make sense if all you expect to see are rats.
The C4S OEM pads, rotors, and ATE gold/blue worked well for me all the way to to black run groups. I thought R-compound tires will overwhelm them, but they surprisingly are excellent even with sticky track tires. They would still work well for me, with solid feel and no boiling, except I now wear out a full set of OEM pads in one 3 day track weekend.
If you already have a lot of track seat time and running with the crazies in the black run groups, I suggest a set of OEM pads for the street and swap Pagid yellows for the track. For brake fluid, Motul 600/660 is more than adequate. I never did like the higher maintenance required with SS lines. There continues to be a controversy about slotted vs cross-drilled rotors. My take is that it's a personal choice on our essentially stock cars driven by weekend racer wannabes. I stay with the cross drilled OEM rotors 'cuz I thnk they look cool. I just make sure to clean out the holes everytime I swap pads.
Or, you can always go out and buy that elephant gun with all the trimmings
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Well put Palting. For the weekend guy "having fun" stock pads and fluid is perfectly fine. But if you run with "the crazies", then you need the proper fluid and pads.
I started with my CAB and stock pads, etc., and then ended up somehow with a GT3, an enclosed trailer and a tow vehicle. GUARD YOUR WALLET!!!!!
Slippery slope...................
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