Not sure if OEM SSK is working fine.

I finally got my first mod yesterday, a dealer installed Porsche SSK. It seems to be a big difference from the original and I'm not sure if I just need to get more use to it of if it needs an adjustment (assuming such a thing exist). The original shift was going in gear as smooth as a hot knife in butter but felt imprecise and didn't give a positive response that the gears were properly engaged.Could use the tip of two fingers to engage the lever. The new SSK feel tons more precise, gives a decent clicking type feedback that you are in gear....but does require more positive movement (trying to avoid saying force) to get it in. As I was always told to be delicate with the shifter I'm not sure if it's normal to have to be a tad more dedicated to engage the gear. I find the 2,4,6 gear to be totally fine as it's a natural movement to pull the shifter down toward you but I find the 1,3,5 gear a bit weird...guess I'm not use to move the shifter that firmly. Don't get me wrong, I do love the feeling of it, I just want to know if this is the way it should feel. Thanks for the help. Marc

Does it feel less ratchety once the car has warmed up? There is definitely more force required due to the laws of physics, but it is possible that your techs need to adjust the linkage a bit. I find that getting into first gear requires a bit more force than the other gears, but nothing to be complaining about. You need to also let us know which SSk was installed, as there are at least three choices: B&M in car, OEM in car, B&M under car, etc.( Judging by your taste in wine, I assume you got the factory in car unit!). In addition, I found that spraying a good lubricant into the assembly helps smooth things considerably.

I did get the OEM in car, but not because of wine taste, because my insurance severly restrict my desire to modify the car. If I stick to OEM equipment they look at it as "options" from the naufacturer as oppose to straight mods ???!!! In any caew, it didn't feel different once warmed up. But I guess I was surprise by the force needed to put in gear. It's not that it's difficult to put in, it just requires a tad more force, due to physics as you rightly pointed out. As far as lubricant, won't it also help gather "goo" in the long run, or is there a specific type that doesn't collect dirt. Thanks for the info. Marc

The oem is not really adjustable, may need to be lubed up a bit.

..so I guess my install is fine , I just need to get use to it ? Do you agree that it feel way more solid ? IF so, I'll assume that it ok to use a bit more force to move the stick...

Pop off the **** and boot and lube up the shift ends or at least bathe them in wd40, will be much smoother.

I think you have touched on a something that really gets glossed over in the internet forums�..perception (and how it changes with each individual). A person�s individual likes, dislikes, and preferences play a huge part in whether something is a worth while modification for that person. The ssk kits are a good example. What is a �rifle bolt like action� from one driver may be notchy and requires a lot more �force� for another. I recently installed a SSK also. I like the sporty feel of the short throws and don�t mind the additional �force� required to make the sifts; however, there is a definite difference from the standard factory shifter. The factory shifter while sort of �sloppy� (compared to the ssk) is butter smooth and extremely easy to shift (with just flicks of the fingers) while ssk has positive engagement it could never be shifted with just a flick of the fingers. The difference is quite dramatic in my opinion. For the person who bought the car for a GT type of cruiser the ssk may not be the �best mode for the money� as many think. This perception issues also comes into pay with suspensions (another hot topic). What is tight and controlled to me may be brutal and stiff to someone else. I will give you another example from my days as a 993 owner. Everyone talked about the RS motor mounts being superior to the standard factory ones with just a little bit more vibration and noise being distributed to the cabin. I did this mode and found the noise and vibrations not acceptable to me for a daily driven car. If the car was primarily a track car or even just a weekend car it would have been alright, but daily driven or long trips with the wife were a no go for this mode. I switched back to the standard factory mounts.

Chris, I thought they ALL were adjustable? Sounds like his threads need some adjustment. The dealer has (and you can buy for less than $10) the plastic adjustment tool that locks the shifter in neutral so you can adjust the threads. Also, if he is having trouble on the top side gears but smooth on the low side gears my guess would be thread adjustment to account for the travel restriction of the gears he is experiencing. Ina perfect world, all gears would be equal in the engagement into gear whereas here he has trouble on ONLY one side of the "H" but ease on the other. My vote is for thread adjustment. Please correct me if I am off base here.

The porsche adjustment tool does not work with the ssk. You have to reinstall the factory shifter to use it.

Thanks Brian. Then a simple thread adjustment sans tool is still in order, no?

Brian,exhaust is another great example. I have bypass pipes for the track, recently drove to the track with them on as opposed to changing out at the track, the 4 hr drive to the glen was unbearable. At the track you don't really notice bc of your helmet and surroundings, but on the street forget it! But some people drive with them daily??? Chris Dell, I was refering to the gate adjustment screw that the BM has and the oem doesn't use bc it utilizes the plastic bushings. If a porsche dealer did the install, they just did the pop on/off technique described in their tsb, hence they never messed with the threads, that's not to say they may need a little adjusting. To do this with the BM, just secure it in dead center with duct tape and then adjust it, don't need the tool. C

Thanks gus for the valuable info. I feel much better. I do love the bolt action feeling. I was just concerned that something was wrong and that I could do damage in the long run to the tranny for not being as smooth "a la two fingers" with the stick. As far as the "up" gear, it's not that they are harder to put in, maybe it's just that pushing the level in with a tad more force is different that having to pull it towards 2,4or 6th gear. So, if that's the way it is, cool, I just have to drive the hell out of the car to get use it. Now on to GHL (loud) , X-74 and race pedals.....

Part # 000.721.961.90 for under $10. Adjust on stock shifter and pop the cables on SSK. Takes all the guess work out of it. FYI, the 997 OEM SSK comes with the 997 adjuster tool as part of the kit.

Great news...as long as it comes with instructions...speaking off instructions anybody can recommend a good shop-typ manual for a 2004 996 ? Everything I've seen is for older cars ?

You're a little off base, the threads can be adjusted but the alignment tool will NOT work on the ssk.

Thanks Doug.....Brian already answred that above though (post 9).

Sorry I didn't read it that far.

I am going to repost an earlier post here to get the opinion of people using this B&M in the real world. as you can see below, i shift hard and usually never miss (still very smooth but I am use to the rifle feel of early non plastic shifters, but i did break something over the weekend. What stress will be put on the car and linkage parts that could break in the future. Is putting a heavy duty linkage and SSK setting me up for future plastic breakage, is there any risk of breaking the housing. see my car is covered by factory warranty, but this type of plastic breakage is a good time to upgrade. 02 996 C4CAB. Busted my shift linkage at autocross this weekend. I "hyper extended" it in a 1st to 2nd shift, all my fault, all force and no finesse. The plastic cup cracked and popped out the shifter cable from the ball joint, DNF, I broke down the cables and I got it fixed to drive home, but now I need to diagnose and repair. I am of the opinion don't fix it until broken but when broken upgrade. The part that needs to be replaced is the shift linkage plastic cup, the EVO part would do the trick, anyone using this part with a B&M short shifter. What are your reactions, is the shift too harsh or notchy.

I've got the EVO shift linkage with the B&M ssk. I doubt that the linkage makes much difference on the feel vs the stock plastic linkage. given your hard shifting, sounds like the stronger linkage would be beneficial. I attribute the notchier feel to the ssk, rather than the linkage, due to the reduced leverage of the ssk.

I Think Suncoast sells alum linkage for $129