30 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSmoken' hot fuse C8-Rgt Radiator Fan
Reported or suspected cause
motor is consuming too much current
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
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Suspected cause
0
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Reported cause
The problem is the motor is consuming too much current because of an internal short or excessive load due to failed bearings.
Leading evidence: 'motor is consuming too much current' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'motor is consuming too much current' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check back in' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
So what you are saying is I replaced the wrong ballast since the passenger side is running at slower speed
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Suspected cause · Original poster
At present breaking rebuilt eng in before installing my SC back on and continuing the tune (FVD on stand-by), probably the safest course of action.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I will pull the relays out one at a time to see which one heats up the wire tomorrow and check back in.
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30 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Fan GURUS please apply!! Well finally rebuilt engine in and running good but AZ temps approching 112 degrees and still can't enjoy car. So during initial shack down lost my AC by burning out/melting the 40 amp fuse in C8 position which is "radiator fan right". This is phoenix so by noon in june it's 100 plus degrees, anyway I got home and after letting her sit over night and noticed that the AC works with fuse out? With AC off and the fuse "in" the fuse stays cool, but when I hit the AC Switch I hear which sems like 2 (drivers side fans) come on and the fuse heats up qwickly to the point that it starts to smoke and I shut engine off and pull fuse out. Any Ideas where to look first welcome.
Fuse C8 supplies power to the two relays which select either low or high speed operation for the right side fan. The A/C will operate without the fans, at least until there isn't enough cooling air being moved through the condenser(s). If you're melting C8 when you turn on the A/C, that means that the right side fan motor is drawing too much current when operated at full speed.
Does the right side fan run, and run at the same speed of the left side fan when you turn on the A/C? If not, the fan motor is probably dead or you have something obstructing the fan blades and the motor has stalled.
You can easily test both low and high speed operation of the right side fan by jumping pin 3 to pin 5 at the socket for relay #21 (low speed operation) or relay #22 (high speed operation). You'll need a heavy gauge piece of wire with proper spade lug terminals to do that. Both of those relays are on the relay support in the driver's side footwell.
If the right side fan doesn't run at all, you might not have adequate cooling air for the radiator on the right side should the DME demand additional cooling for high coolant temperatures.
Hope this helps!
Not sure what you mean. Fan #1 is the driver's side (left side) fan. Fan #2 is the passenger's side (right side) fan. Does the passenger side fan come on?
Thanks and sorry for the confusion I was trying to find out which fan # the drivers side was. I will pull the relays out one at a time to see which one heats up the wire tomorrow and check back in.
PS I just started the car to see if the #2 fan comes on also and it did but, when I shut down the car I caught a slight rubbing noise from the number #1 fan. I will pull front bumper off also tomorrow.
The low speed relay will never melt the 40A fuse because there is a 0.55 ohm resistor in series with the motor when that relay is engaged. Even if the motor is a dead short, that resistor will limit the current through the 40A fuse to about 22 amps. It'll get warm, but shouldn't melt.
OK this is what I have so far. Fuse still burning.
1. Fan spins freely no rubbing #1 fan
2. Changed with another ballast (wrecking yard) No Change still hot and fan seems to spin on high speed or faster then the #2 fan (passenger side).
3. Removed both fan #1 relays #19,20 No fans on and fuse still gets hot.
4. Just turn the ac switch on and now it gets hot (with relays removed).
Now it seems the fans are not the problem
As a note though the fan #1 fans comes on to a high speed where as the fan #2 stays on low with ac switch on- hope this does not confuse issue furthor.
Have you measured the draw on the C8 circuit? Additionally, I think there should only be a 30 amp fuse in that location. At least that is a fact on the 99. I wonder if a bigger fuse was put in because of a problem? Also, when you ground relay terminal 85, are the fans coming on?
Good question. Didn't find any TSBs on the subject and the wire sizes were unchanged, so maybe they just had a rash of fuses blowing due to manufacturing variations in the motors.
No did not measure but hot enough to smoke. My fuse manual says 40 amp but burned all my spares now using 30 amps and going by touch before I burn it.
Which relay # for pin 85 and I can try.
Yes. But don't bother replacing the ballast on the passenger side fan, because that isn't the problem. A failed ballast would either (a) cause the fan not to run at all when the low speed relay is engaged or (b) cause the fan to run at full speed when the low speed relay is engaged. The ballast is completely out of the circuit when the high speed relay is engaged.
The problem is the motor is consuming too much current because of an internal short or excessive load due to failed bearings.
Just compare the amperage draw on the 2 fans before you start replacing things. Check loads under all conditions. It could be as simple as a bare wire. Connect DC power to each fan and check draw also. That will either eliminate the fan or confirm it as being the problem.
Well I just spent the day working on the wrong fan so calling it a day till the morning. It just passed 110 degrees out and that's the excuse I am sticking to
Tomorrow morning I will pull the "passenger fan" out and inspect and hook up to battery and see if it even gets to high speed. Thanks for help will let you know tomorrow. The parts did not cost me today so it was not a total loss.
Pulled the fan and it barley would turn.... bearings and overheating present, so put another in and it's works great so far and fuse is just warm now with 30 amp fuse. If can just get another 40 amp fuse somewhere checker just had up to 30 amps. Thanks everyone for your help learned allot especially that a fast turning fan does not mean that it is a problem.
I will get back to updating that FVD-SC thread soon. At present breaking rebuilt eng in before installing my SC back on and continuing the tune (FVD on stand-by), probably the safest course of action.
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