Motor mounts

'03 C4S with 50600 miles on it. What would be telltale(if any) that I may need to consider replacing motor mounts? THanks

I replaced mine a month or so ago (nearly exact same car/mileage as you). My passenger side tail pipe was sagging slightly was the only sign. It was an easy DIY job.

hmm. just replaced my second set since the car was new (147k miles) last weekend. While my tailpipe wasn't sagging, I replaced mine because I had a little difficulty shifting. Also, when I went to change the oil, there was quite a bit of movement of the engine and the tailpipes moved up quite a bit more (lifted from the rear middle to place jackstands on the rear). So as a preventative measure, I replaced both before the mounts went on it, which would mean added strain on the transmission mount. Easy. took 1/2 hour total.

on best mods for $500 and several posts mentioned, quite effusively, going to solid motor mounts (I'm assuming same as engine mounts?) So what are the obvious, noticeable benefits? besides the not directly noticeable "less strain on engine / transmission engagement" which I'm aware of) Thanks

My tail pipes were not sagging but replaced motor mounts anyway at 67000 miles as no records came with my car. Didn't really feel anything different in performance either. Both mounts had lengthened by about 1/2 an inch. Since then I changed plugs and Motul gear box oil and that DID make a BIG difference to performance and sound of car.

I just replaced mine a pair of weeks ago. It was a simple DIY and the car made great improvements. My only regret not doing it earlier! Check the thread with the description of the issue I was having, the comments from the R'Listers, and my diagnosis/result. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...errerid=124894

Thanks for sharing - and for giving some of us less-mechanically inclined folks hope

I just changed mine to the rs mount and they have made a huge positive change to the car. The car feels solid. A big improvement to the stock unit.

There is an obvious difference. This is one of my old ones compared to a new one.

I have the same car ('03 C4S) and recently upgraded to RSS solid mounts. My car has 57K on the odometer and I track it a lot; I'd had problems with grinding gears a bit when downshifting into 2nd under load. That seems to be gone now. But the comment of "it feels more solid" rings true with me ... it's subtle but the car feels more like new again. And I get better "butt feel" for what the engine and transmission are doing now. Subtle, but a nice improvement.

For me it was passenger seat vibration, it was very noticeable, as well as the engine just felt a little more rough, if that makes sense. Once I had the new mounts in, it was an immediate difference...I noticed it before I even had it off my ramps. Just felt a lot more smooth, and the passenger seat vibration was gone. As they get older, they stop working as effeciently as they used to, but it is not necessarily noticeable until you put the new ones in. I have a '99 (build date '98) and did this early last year, so mine were roughly 14 years old.

I knew mine needed to be replaced when they started leaking oil. They were damaged by jacking the rear of the car up by the motor so don't do that.

The biggest improvement I've noticed on replacing the engine mounts, new OEM is improved stability when changing lanes on the highway. The car would 'crab' following the tram lines, at high speed while cornering this was some what off putting. The exhausts were probably 1/2" low before replacement. Oddly enough I didn't notice a reduction in vibration a lot people talk about.

Just have my 99' 3.4L done, the passenger seat vibration is gone. Shifting is a lot smoother.

Do I need to jack the car up at all? I am getting ready to order my replacement mounts for a 51K '03 C4S(vibration and odd exhaust tips.) One question I have for those who have done this: All the DIYs I have read thus far start by jacking the car up first and then supporting the engine before the mount swap. The question: Is it imperative to jack the car up at all? I believe I have enough clearance for the jack and I am able to see the current mount tips fairly easily without even getting my head fully under the car(probably won't be able to rotate to be able to look up - feel that I have good visibility) Has anyone done this without jacking the whole car/rearend up?

One more thing, is there any benefit for a road-going car(no tracking planned) to install anything other than the stock motor mounts?

I replaced my original mounts with RSS mounts. My car is a DD with a small handful of track days every year. The change was noticeable and I can hear and feel the engine a little more than before including the engine vibration at ~3K RPM. The change isn't major though and I actually prefer a little more engine noise even as a DD. The car also feels noticeably tighter although that could have been due to having worn mounts in the first place. The RSS mounts cost about double what the stock ones do. To answer your first question I replaced them without jacking up the car. No problem. I drove the rear wheels onto a set of planks that I had to give an extra inch of clearance but it wasn't absolutely necessary.

I put mine on ramps, and while I probably didn't have to, it definitely made it easier. Where you need the clearance is when you are undoing the nut on the bottom of the motor mount. I was completely under the car (and you need an extension on your socket set to get to it). So, if you are small and can get enough overhang to where you can get an arm or your torso under the car to get at those nuts on the bottom of the motor mount, and if your jack is a low profile jack that will get under to support the engine, you should be OK. DS

Is anyone familiar with Rein motor mounts? Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist

Yes. Rein is the OEM brand that Pelican Parts uses, and has for a few years now. They used to use Corteco, but switched to Rein about 2 years ago. I put Rein's in mine about a year ago and have been very happy with the change, it was a significant difference compared to my very tired and worn motor mounts; no complaints at all.

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Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist

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I didn't bother raising the car, not worth the effort.

I did mine on ramps. I did jack the engine to keep it in place while switching out the mounts.

Within our tech article on this topic, we state to raise the rear but it is only to make it easier to access the nuts. You can try and replace them on the ground - up to you. You may have read our instructions here and yes, go with a direct stock replacement like Corteco here . Plenty of folks have done this project here on the list but feel free to fire over questions. Mark/Pelican Parts

Thanks Mark. Unfortunately I went to order Cortecos and your site had them as out of stock. I ended up ordering Reins from another vendor. I might take you up on the offer of questions. Should be done this weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist

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Just bought mounts from Pelican. Rein.

rpm's S2, I glad you were able to find them but when I looked the face page said that there were 5 Cortecos available(right now it says 98 ) but in the checkout process it was listed as out of stock. I was able to find Rein parts at FCPEuro. I could not find Rein(unless they are one and the same) This weekend will be installation time. Good luck with your installation.

I just installed the RSS mounts on my 99 C2 86K miles. I had thought my rear shocks were worn out because the rear felt like it had no dampening during spirited driving. With the new mounts that condition is gone! (I guess I shouldn't be surprised given how elongated the original mounts I replaced were.) Hard to describe the difference they make overall but it's noticeable! I felt some vibration initially during idle and around 3K RPM but that went away when the car warmed up and I had put a few miles on the new mounts. My car is a Tip so I don't know how that affects vibrations vs a 6 peed but vibration is not an issue with the semi solid RSS mounts AFAIC!

Well, I installed my new motor mounts today. Took a little longer than expected but most of this was figuring out how to get the airbox out. I just pushed the SAI pump off away from the mount. Everything went pretty much as planned except for my support point for the motor was off center. The effect of this was that when I undid the lower nut on the driver side mount, the engine shifted slightly to the point that there was no thread visible below the engine carrier. This was solved by just jacking up slightly more. The other side went pretty simply. image-943110015.jpg The old mount (on the left) was pulled out about 5mm further than the new one. Subjectively vibration is better but I will have a better idea once I use it again this coming work-week. Exhaust tips are again lined up. All in all, very successful and satisfied with the DIY. Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist

Mounts have been in for a few days and I am sure it has improved things. 1. Vibrating passenger seat now still 2. Vibration waiting at light in 2nd gear gone(TipS) 3. Vibration @ 1800rpm under load gone 4. Noise from snorkel vibrating against deck lid receiver now gone Seems to be a successful mission! Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist

Side bar: 996 transmission mount... I run OEM motor mounts on my race car and I just replaced them recently with the motor & trans out. I installed the Wevo orange/black semi-solid trans mount. First time out I thought something must be loose or the wheel bearing were all failing simultaneously. I felt every vibration in both the drive train and through the wheels. I seriously thought the motor/trans were about to fall out. I've become used to it now after a few events but thought you should hear my perspective before anyone made that change on a street car. I don't think you would like it...... http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...unt-detail.htm