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YOUR RESEARCHMy old 996 - Time for repairs/upgrades
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Suggestion · Original poster
what is the way to determin if the actuator is bad, or just the pads have become so worn the actuator cannot adjust far enoough to compensate...?
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Suggestion
For diagnosis, you can try powering the solenoid directly with the engine off, and check for a clicking sound.
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Suggestion · Original poster
(the plan is to do plugs and check coil packs too)
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Suggestion
I would advise that if it is the actuator that's failed on that side, inspect pieces at the time of removal, but no further action is required simply due to disassembly to that point.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The dealer is wanting to replace an actuator and my thought on that is unless they do anything to the "other side" the car will soon be having the same problem over there....
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so as many of you know my old 996 is in the hands of a good friend and RL member. He got ahold of me today to inform me the car has thrown a CEL and is at the shop.
Diagnostics shows a cam actuator.
so after some thinking I am fairly certain that with 120k the likelyhood of the cam guides being worn out is high and that if we do that we could solve the problem. The dealer is wanting to replace an actuator and my thought on that is unless they do anything to the "other side" the car will soon be having the same problem over there....
So questions:
and Dharn, I am thinking of you too since I know you have been there from an "in the garage, on the floor perspective"
what is the way to determin if the actuator is bad, or just the pads have become so worn the actuator cannot adjust far enoough to compensate...?
what should we do "while in there"?
(the plan is to do plugs and check coil packs too)
if we finish this job, we plan to do the IMSR and check RMS/Clutch/flywheel while at that....
thoughts?
advise....
opinions...
I will try to make this useful info for others to do this job including pics, maybe a few videos and my normal Blah Blah Blah
as of now the plpan is to start this Friday - we live more than 30 minutes drive from each other and I will bring some air tools and other stuff... might get stuck missing a tool and have to wait, but time is not one factor we have against us at this point
- here we go !!
I've seen the solenoid malfunction in the past (my best guess is the internal coil has an interruption). My first guess was also a worn chain guide/tensioner as well, but I think that is just due to too much Rennlist exposure!
I would advise that if it is the actuator that's failed on that side, inspect pieces at the time of removal, but no further action is required simply due to disassembly to that point. Contrary to what I read here, I've seen the solenoid fail more often than any other internal engine issue, second to the AOS. If it's the drivers side bank, the oil scavenge pump will be a pain to remove, otherwise fairly smooth.
For diagnosis, you can try powering the solenoid directly with the engine off, and check for a clicking sound. Alternately, you can also try activating each side with a durometric separately and observe timing/engine tone as well as rpm.
Looking forward to seeing the videos. Can you do the commentary in a German accent? I'd also settle for a blonde female named Schotzie as the DIY'er. Just a simple request.
Ed.
As I remember your have a Durametric. If so you can check the actuators with it. Go to the DME module and then the actual values tab. This allows you to pick actual values to watch with the Durametric. Don't choose to many or it bogs down the software. Choose the RPM and the cam advance (I forget the actual names to click and you have to have the software/pc connected to the car to see it). Then start the car and click start on the screen, you will see the values for the cam position. As you run the RPM's up to 1,500 plus you will be the cams advance. If one or both are not advancing this should show with this test.
If they are not advancing them you will need to determine is it is the mechanism or an electrical fault.
As for the pads on the advance mechanism, they will be pretty worn, I know mine were at 50,000 miles. They only cost about $13 a set, but you do have to pull the cams out to replace them and taking off the cam covers with the engine in is a real pain. Let me know if I can be of help.
The durametric 'drivelink' should allow you to activate the cam actuators on either bank independently.
I was informed that I need a $25k engine replacement. In the end, I got a another opinion that suggested the solenoid goes bad on these cars. <$1k later my 996 is bad on the track. They didn't have to drop the engine either on my '99.
so your solinoid leaked?
(after more talk that was what the dealer is saying for this car too)
I will do a search on the solinoids leaking.... thought they didnt do that
Here are pics of worn pads from my car.
I pulled my engine recently and replaced the VarioCam pads, chains, AOS, WP, spark plugs, plug tubes & seals, IMS....
At 100k the VarioCam pads were very worn, especially the passenger side. I also found one of the connectors to be wet.
The car ran well before the service, but did idle better afterwards and eliminated the slight vibration @ 2k.
View process here.
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ed-engine.html
great, Thanks for the pics and stuff.
I guess the scavenger pump is the biggest pain on one side (drivers) and IIRC the cam tool has limited space on the other side. I will have to fab a couple tools, but nothing too fancy.
right now my biggest fear is making sure we get the right part fixed. The solenoid was diagnosed as "bad" and at ~$1000/pop I dont want to replace what aint broke!
I dont think we will pull the motor...
If you pay shipping, you're welcome to borrow the tools I made.
I would make sure that the electrical connection doesn't have fluid in it like mine did.
While it might seem pulling the engine is more work, it isn't. It will save you a bunch of time and aggravation when working on the cams. You must loosen the chain tensioners to remove/replace the scavenger pumps. The passenger side one is way too much fun!
It might be possible to do in the car, but how do you make sure the lifters don't fall out and working in the confined spaces will drive you crazy.
This is a very easy engine to remove. (actually engine & trans together- compared to many cars, it is easy) Plus you have perfect access to AOS and water pump, plus IMS and clutch is a breeze.
There are a bunch of time savers I need to add to my post regarding the removal and installation of engine. For example... remove the slave cylinder as you lower the engine. Also remove the compressor as you lower the engine and remove the passenger side intake manifold for more access. Manifold only take 3 mins, if the engine has been lowered 5". The service manual doesn't tell you a bunch of things.
I have lowered it before, but notr removed it.... spoke with my "guys" this A.M. and they confirmed the solenoid is a suspect part and does fail
I hope the "other" shop that diagnosed it gave the data as to which one to the owner... I dont have software to diagnos at home.
As mentioned eariler- apply current to solenoids, then either put hand on valve cover to feel engagement or pull the intake cam green rubber plug to see if the intake cam moves.
guys?
any electrical guru's out there... how much juice should I give the solenoid to test it?
straight battery power or maybe a little 9v batter from a flashlight... looking for a simple test here
with the car idling if you apply voltage to the solenoid connectors it should idle really rough. It is very noticeable when the cams advance.
Do note that the 'apply voltage' test is not a guarantee that the solenoid is working... my pass the voltage test and the shop later found a 'short' in the solenoid causing it to not to function properly.
