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What Caliper part is this?

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YOUR RESEARCHWhat Caliper part is this?

Leading reported evidence

Replace pads frequently

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I changed pads frequently for the track so I decided to run without.

What Caliper part is this?
Frequently discussed work

Replace four rotors too - speaking of "not cheap"

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Suggestion

Thanks, I am planning a brake job this winter so just getting info - I think I have to replace all four rotors too - speaking of "not cheap"

What Caliper part is this?
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Leading evidence: 'Replace pads frequently' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace four rotors too - speaking of "not cheap"' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.

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Replace track pads

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed

I changed my track pads to street pads every time I took the slicks off my 1972 due to the shriek of cold track pads on the street.

What Caliper part is this?

Run stock pads

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As far as pads, I ran the stock pads for the street and pagid rs19's and PFC97/01/06 for the track.

What Caliper part is this?

Replace four rotors too - speaking of "not cheap"

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Suggestion

Thanks, I am planning a brake job this winter so just getting info - I think I have to replace all four rotors too - speaking of "not cheap"

What Caliper part is this?

Replace pads

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Suggestion

I THINK the factory procedure is to put new ones in whenever you change pads, but that is up to you.

What Caliper part is this?

Suggestion

If you go to the track and change pads, then not a good idea.

What Caliper part is this?
Frequently discussed actions (10)

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Replace four rotors too - speaking of "not cheap"

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Suggestion

Thanks, I am planning a brake job this winter so just getting info - I think I have to replace all four rotors too - speaking of "not cheap"

What Caliper part is this?

Replace pads

No successful repair reported for this finding.

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Suggestion

I THINK the factory procedure is to put new ones in whenever you change pads, but that is up to you.

What Caliper part is this?

Suggestion

If you go to the track and change pads, then not a good idea.

What Caliper part is this?

Replace pads frequently

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed

I changed pads frequently for the track so I decided to run without.

What Caliper part is this?

Replace pads you need

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Suggestion

are you saying when you replace the pads you need to buy these and replace them also (except track use as it makes swapping pads from street to track a problem because of the sticky things)

What Caliper part is this?

Replace rotors

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Suggestion

By the way, how do you know you need to replace the rotors?

What Caliper part is this?

Replace these pieces is worth it

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Suggestion

With that said, if the car is a street car (no track or rarely track) then the pads should last a looooooooong time and replacing these pieces is worth it.

What Caliper part is this?

Replace these rotors though..."

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Suggestion

You should try racing, you'd be saying "I just replaced these rotors though..."

What Caliper part is this?

Replace those dampers now

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Suggestion · Original poster

Thanks Quickxotica, I think I'll just replace those dampers now.

What Caliper part is this?

Replace track pads

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Performed · outcome unconfirmed

I changed my track pads to street pads every time I took the slicks off my 1972 due to the shriek of cold track pads on the street.

What Caliper part is this?

Run stock pads

No successful repair reported for this finding.

0
Reported fixes
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Read evidence and context
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed

As far as pads, I ran the stock pads for the street and pagid rs19's and PFC97/01/06 for the track.

What Caliper part is this?
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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.

27 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.

  • Rennlist: 1 discussions

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POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

On the first pic, taken of the front pads, are these the pistons from the calipers? Mine were stuck to the pads. Is that normal? Should I reuse them or get new pistons? On the second pic, what metal part is the arrow pointing to? Do I need to keep that and reuse or is that a part of the pad that can be thrown away? Thanks.

POST 2Original post

those sure look like the pistons. You need to rebuild that caliper

POST 3Original post

I agree - though I am not 100% sure, I cant think of anything else that would be there

POST 4 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

It turns out that these are not pistons but instead dampers. Thanks for the assistance.

POST 6Original post

If your pistons had fallen completely out of the caliper, you would have brake fluid all over yourself right now. If you don't have brake fluid all over the place, then the pistons are still intact within the caliper. What you are looking at are various parts Porsche put in there to prevent squeal. I THINK the factory procedure is to put new ones in whenever you change pads, but that is up to you. If you want to reuse them, you can use an oyster-knife to separate the round flat (very thin) plate from the back of the brake pad backing plate. The heat and age have stuck them together, but they will separate again if you try. The metal spider-like parts are attached to those thin discs. The piston-like things are actually covers for the metal spider things. They are shaped like a piston because pistons are hollow and the metal covers actually fit nested inside the hollow exterior side of the piston. The piston itself only touches the brake pad in a ring (which you can see the outline of on your backing plate around the perimeter of the metal covers.) Good luck.

POST 7 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Thanks Quickxotica, I think I'll just replace those dampers now.

POST 8Original post

The pistons are bored out. If you look closely you can see the anti-squeal shim outline (rectangular) that the two posts are mounted to. The shim is adhesive on the opposite allowing you to adhere it to the pad and cut down on the sounds of a school bus stopping. If you just run stock pads, not a pad idea to use the shims. If you go to the track and change pads, then not a good idea. To install them you actually mount them onto the pistons FIRST and then place the pad inside the caliper so it seats in a fully loaded, flush position. PITA when the pads are brand new as there is little space to work with and the sticky backside of the shim is so much fun to work with I bought a full set for my car that I never used so let me know if you want some pics of them. No trouble to run out to the garage and snap a few pics. FYI...The fronts are a solid piece that has the two posts on it that slide inside the two pistons on the caliper. The rears are "spider" shims (circular discs) that are individually placed on rather than one assembly like the front. And of course, like most items on these cars, they are NOT cheap.

POST 9 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Pics would be great to visualize what you are talking about. Thanks Dell. BTW, I was thinking about getting some Hawk ceramic pads. What kinds did you get and why?

POST 10Original post

As far as pads, I ran the stock pads for the street and pagid rs19's and PFC97/01/06 for the track. Not sure about the Hawk pads. THe two superior lines of pads out there are Pagid and PFC. Let me run out to the garage and snap a few. Be right back.............................. Here you go...... Part number for the fronts 99635108801 (retail $26/ea and you need 4) Part number for the rear is 96435209600 and 99635208601 (retail $6 for the 964p/n you need 4 and $10 for the 996 you need 4 (8 total discs for the rear). If you look closely, the 964 "spider" discs have larger "spider" clips and the 996 ones are smaller. This is designed so they fit in the appropriate piston. If you look closely at the front units you can tell the the posts are different size as well so there is only one way to install them.

POST 11Original post

I'd like some recommendations on street pads that are "dustless". Anyone?

POST 12Original post

That's a tough one since dust means the pads are doing their job. From what I have heard, the PCCB setup is "dustless" but I have no idea what the pad compound is nor if it compatible only with carbon brakes.

POST 13Original post

Quotes source post: 6862639

no such thing really. the dust is indication that you're braking. Try not touching the brake pedal, and voila! no dust!

POST 14Original post

MY996a, I have a question for you. How did you get those pads out with the antisqueal devices attached? I assume that you had to take the caliper off, is there that really that much room? I have not changed my 996 pads yet they were done to satisfy one of the PPI items when I bought it.

POST 15Original post

You can slip a putty knife in there to dislodge the backing plate. What I never got a clear answer on is why the front calipers have those huge pucks on them. I think besides anti-squeal they also help to dissapate heat away from the pistons, my only reason for thinking that is I've found it easier to boil the fluid when they are not in place.

POST 16 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

thanks Dell. fpb111, I took the calipers off and then there was plenty of room to take the pads and the dampers off. Alternatively, like Darren stated, if you don't want to take the caliper off, use a putty knife and separate the damper from the pad and then the pad slides out.

POST 17Original post

awe hell I am confused Dell... are you saying when you replace the pads you need to buy these and replace them also (except track use as it makes swapping pads from street to track a problem because of the sticky things) cant you re-use anything ? when you order the ne pads from Sunset do they tell you - "you should also buy......." Thanks, I am planning a brake job this winter so just getting info - I think I have to replace all four rotors too - speaking of "not cheap"

POST 18Original post

Quotes source post: 6865267

You should try racing, you'd be saying "I just replaced these rotors though..."

POST 19Original post

Quotes source post: 6865267

Sometimes they will ask if you need them as well. You could try to reuse them by adding some type of glue/etc to get them to re-stick. If they are not connected to the pad, they are worthless. With that said, if the car is a street car (no track or rarely track) then the pads should last a looooooooong time and replacing these pieces is worth it. By the way, how do you know you need to replace the rotors? Have you measured them with a micrometer? Do they have extensive cracking? etc?

POST 20Original post

I dont know, but I suspect.... with this many miles - and I have felt some pretty high ridges on the outter most part - maybe close a 1mm (didnt measure)

POST 21Original post

Quotes source post: 6865267

Have a look at http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7065 . Loren has provided a DIY for brake pad replacement. It is very good and I found it to be pretty easy to do. Look down at some of the comments which follow and you will find folks who reused the vibration dampers by getting brake adhesives to reattach them. I have no idea whether is a good idea or a bad idea to reuse them.

POST 22Original post

LVDELL, You bought them and never used them? Did you leave the old ones in the pistons? Or just go without them? Noise difference? I changed my track pads to street pads every time I took the slicks off my 1972 due to the shriek of cold track pads on the street. Looking at them I would bet they are strictly for noise prevention. I would think they would bring more heat into the caliper and heat the fluid more. You have more piston area in contact with HOT pad parts.

POST 23Original post

Quotes source post: 6867039

Correct, I never used them. I changed pads frequently for the track so I decided to run without. No, I did not leave the old ones in the pistons. They went in the trash. A little noise difference. But I am used to it. I really don't care what others hear Yes, they are strictly as they are called (anti-squeal shims). But there isn't any extra heat going into the fluid when you use them. Especially with street driving.

POST 24Original post

Quotes source post: 6867738

How do you know they do nothing for heat? Sure for the street it doesn't matter, at the track I'm not so sure. Everyone I know that drives 996's hard at the track have issues with keeping the dust books from disintegrating. They seem to last longer with the shims in place. What material is that shim actually made out of?

POST 25Original post

I never said to use them at the track nor did I say I use them at the track. Maybe I should re-write my sentence so it is more clear. THERE IS NO DETRIMENTAL HEAT GETTING INTO THE SYSTEM WITH STREET DRIVING. As far as the material, I have no idea. Some type of metal it appears. With that said, I can't imagine there is "extra" heat going into the caliper that isn't already generated by the pads, the pistons, or the rotors.

POST 26Original post

Quotes source post: 6867852

To what part are you referring as disintegrating?

POST 27Original post

The dust boots around the caliper pistons. Not the inner seal, but the outer "accordian-type" boot.

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