advice on brake rotors?

I need to replace my brake rotors in the next few months. I have just installed pagid yellow pads and race fluid. Any advice on what are the best brake rotors to use (and the best source?). I have been told to avoid cross drilled due to cracking and would like to improve on OEM if that possible or advisable. Didnt find much using search engine.

Honestly aftermarket brake rotors won't do much for your braking, it's all in the tires and pads, but they can make the feel better. If you go cross-drilled use the factory stuff, you won't see stress cracks unless you are tracking the car. If you are tracking and don't want to have to replace rotors, go with slotted. David Zeckhausen of http://www.zeckhausen.com/ has a lot of good info on his site, though I don't think he ships to New Zealand.

Performance friction has 2-piece that are dimpled. Am waiting for mine to wear out, then I'll get those. HRP World has them. Would also really be interested in the weight savings.

why did you install the pads if you are changing the rotors? when you change the rotors, yours pads will be already bedded with the old rotor and not new. You should do both at the same time. i'd get oem unless you are having proble with yours. porsche brakes are first class. It's made by Brembo. Try benzautoparts.com. Their prices are good - whether MB or not.

You should NEVER bed the new pads in with new rotors. You should bed in new rotors with old pads and then replace them. And vice versa with pads bedded in with old rotors. The Stoptech website has some great reading on this procdure and talks about this process as well. This has been talked about quite extensively. Try doing a search here to see what you come up with. Can you replace both at the same time? Of course, but it is not the preferable way.

Interesting. I doubt if any shops do rotor replacement without pad changes. It's always done with pads.

I thought the same thing till I did some investigating. I don't see why you can't do it at the same but the results will be better (and safer) when both are done at differing times. I'd have to dig up the research I read on this. Also, the odds of your pads and rotors going at the SAME time are very slim. The reason they are usually done by the stealer (both rotor and pad new) is that they "rec'd" having them replaced ($$$).

Pads are a piece of cake to do. Learn to change them yourself. You will be proud and will save alot of money. The rotors are more work but are doable by the enthusiast. Do a search and after you do your own, you will wonder why the dealers can charge so much for such a simple job!

Hi folks, I just replaced my discs and pads ths weekend. Took me 45 minutes to do the forst and 20 minues each for the other 3. It was extremely easy to do. The hardest part was putting the retaining clip in the retaining pin but that's cos I didn;t have my glasses on. Used Sebro discs and Textar pads. They look great when they are new!

I noticed some stress cracks in my rotors yesterday when I washed it. I may be in the market in a few months.

You can do new pads and rotors at the same time. As long as your properly bed them, you are good. 10 stops from 60-5 mph usually does the trick. need brake advice, hit me up. I put a post up here with brake specials a while ago. If you want pricing on those OEM replacement rotors in slotted or the PC dimpled, let me know. Slotted rotors give you the best performance. Oh yeah DO STEEL BRAIDED BRAKE LINES!!!

Come on Dan.....you should know better than to give advice like that. That is not a very good explanation about the process. If anybody is interested....here is an except from a technical white paper written by the experts at StopTech: For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between. Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or �green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached. As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

I did my pads and rotors at the same time then went to pocono, worked great, bedded them on the way there. Of course I'm an old Missouri Hillbilly, WTF

For a daily driver it is nearly impossible to beat the OE genuine factory rotors. Unfortunately there are currently no aftermarket suppliers for OEM rotors. Fortunately there are several Porsche dealers that will sell them to you for a very competitive rate.

I agree. As for pads, the yellows in front are good, but I would recommend black in the rear to better balance the brake bias. As for rotors, the OEM cross drilled rotors do crack quickly, but they are cheap. I woudl stick with them. The only better options is some of the 2 piece slotetd or solid they cup car want to run, but they are like $2000 for a pair!!!

Can you not buy OEM or Brembo slotted rotors that perform better than the the OEM cross drilled rotors or is just cost effecitive to use OEM cross drilled.

when OEM rotors are $129 a piece, its not that bad a deal. then again, i'd rather pay LESS to have simple slotted or solid rotors.

Well when you pick up a new car, it has new discs and pads. So what's the difference? Should you take it back to the dealer and say "please fit some old pads so I can bed the discs in?". This is an old nanny tale and IMHO a load of horse sh*t. So long as you bed the new pads in properly there is no reason where fitting new pads to new discs is a problem. Additionally, the opd pads have worn into an exact mirror of the old disc surface. New pads on new discs start off with an exact mirror of the surface on the new disc. I wouldn't want to groove my new discs with the worn surface of the old pads. What's the point of that?

That's what I was thinking and I tried to keep my

my old pads have enormous grooves in them from the cross drilled holes in the rotors. if i put those on fresh rotors there would be a lot less surface contact between the pad and the rotor...well initially, i would think

So, does one have to go through this process in a newly delivered car? I mean it sounds rather strange to me. I have driven performance cars pretty much all my life but I never heard of this scenario. It just dont seem right to me.