25 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHPull to the Right
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect sway bar control links (one at a time
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
In attempt to eliminate the pull I have: flipped the front wheels, flipped the rear wheels, disconnected the sway bar control links (one at a time with a test drive each time), had another shop verify the alignment (it is).
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect sway bar control links (one at a time' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check control arm bushings' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
From there I was going to check my control arm bushings.
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Suggestion
Also, have you closely checked each tire to confirm all tires have the right sizes, tread hardness, speed ratings, etc?
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Suggestion
Best to make sure the pistons are super clean before resetting them into the calipers past the o-rings.
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Suggestion
youll know when it need replacing/re-lubed, they''ll start to creak.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
In attempt to eliminate the pull I have: flipped the front wheels, flipped the rear wheels, disconnected the sway bar control links (one at a time with a test drive each time), had another shop verify the alignment (it is).
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Suggestion
If you’re running an aftermarket coil over kit, then you will also use the spring adaptor that comes with it, but you will still use the factory thrust bearing.
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Suggestion
If you’re running an aftermarket coil over kit, then you will also use the spring adaptor that comes with it, but you will still use the factory thrust bearing.
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25 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T184158Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I have a 2001 996 C2 with a dramatic pull to the right. After installing Tarett camber plates and toe links (with bump steer) I had car been aligned by a very competent race mechanic. In attempt to eliminate the pull I have: flipped the front wheels, flipped the rear wheels, disconnected the sway bar control links (one at a time with a test drive each time), had another shop verify the alignment (it is). Where do I go from here?
Are you sure the car's pulling or that perhaps the steering wheel is not centered?
My WAG has to be alignment (in spite of the fact two shops claim the alignment is ok). The poster who asked to see a printout of the alignment asked the right question. Whenever I fail to get a full printout of the alignment with before and after numbers is when I find the alignment was not done right.
That you have moved tires/wheels around eliminated tire pressure, differences in tires...maybe.
I'm not sure what the results would be if say one (or more) uni-directional tires were installed the wrong direction.
Also, have you closely checked each tire to confirm all tires have the right sizes, tread hardness, speed ratings, etc? Is one tire's date quite a bit different from the other tires?
I find it hard to believe a bearing could be dragging enough to cause the car to pull and the bearing not showing signs of distress (like glowing red from the heat...).
Are the half-shafts in good repair and both attached?
Otherwise I'm stumped.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Here are some current possibilites: possible control arm bushing; however shouldn't be an issue given there is only 52k miles on the car. Corner balancing is another "potential" but would require a corner to be off by 200+ pounds.
Macster,
All good points. The steering wheel is centered. My tires are relatively new and sizes are equal. Tire pressures have been cheked multiple times. To totally eliminate the possibility of any tire issues, I have decided that my next step is to take my Boxster wheels and tires and mount them on the 996. Initially I put the Boxster fronts on and there was little change. I gonna do all four. I was also going to check to see if a brake caliper is draging. From there I was going to check my control arm bushings.
Everyroad in California is crowned
. Even with the crowned roads my Boxster S can do 1/4 mile at 70 before drifting into the next lane. The 996 takes only 3-4 seconds and it's in the next lane.
IIRC the camber's not in spec.
I believe for the front the spec is: 0 degs. +/- 15' with a max diff right to left of 20'.
For the rears I believe the spec is 1 deg. 25' +/- 15' with a max diff right to left of 15'.
That much negative camber at the front especially is a 'track' setup. With that much negative camber at the front wheels the car's going to want to wander all over on the street.
My advice would be for you to get the correct alignment numbers for your car and have them applied. Then if the car still pulls well, cross that bridge when you come to it.
If the car feels ok then you can play with the alignment to your heart's content and if the car exhibits unacceptable or just different behavior you know the cause.
Sincerely,
Macster.
corner ballance...do you have adjustable springs?
when I took mine in from suspension refresh I was more than 200 pounds off left to right in the front but didnt care when installing cuz I knew I was going in for balance
Check to see that the springs, especially on the front right, are seated correctly. It's possible they got bound up when you lowered the car down after doing the suspension work.
Actually happened to me on my race car. After a tire change I notice the car is pulling hard to the right as I drive to the grid. Went out and drove, and the car was surprisingly fast despite the issue. Turned right really well!
Could not find the issue and ended up going out in the race with the same condition. A couple of laps in I hear a bang from the front right corner. I finish the race and during my drive through the paddock I notice the pull is gone.
From the sound that I heard, I think a spring was re-seating itself into the proper position after binding on something when the car was lowered off jack stands. At least worth a look.
I recently had a customer with a similar issue. It turned out that his shop installed the front camber plates, and left out the thrust bearings above the springs. Is that a possibility? The plates are designed to use the factory spring seat and thrust bearing. If you’re running an aftermarket coil over kit, then you will also use the spring adaptor that comes with it, but you will still use the factory thrust bearing.
Try reading the install instructions and verifying everything went in right.
Besides that I haven't seen any comments refering to the pistons in the calipers possibly having a jammed pistons or two. In a case of that figure the pulled to side as having the most functional pistons with the weaker side having possible pistons freezing up from gunk or rust. Some guys just jam the extended pistons back up into the calipers when fancying a do it yourself. Heck even shops probably do it. Best to make sure the pistons are super clean before resetting them into the calipers past the o-rings. A little debri doesn't give a leak but give moisture a place to gather then rust forms expanding and freezing the piston. Just a thought
