26 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCoolant Leak . . .
Reported or suspected cause
cap
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
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Reported cause
I did check tank for any signs of leakage and other areas as well, but the cause was the cap.
Leading evidence: 'cap' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'cap' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check coolant system' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced the cap with my new one, which was the updated version with part number ending in 04.
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Suggestion
I might buy that airlift tool to pressure check the coolant system.
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Suggestion
I did check tank for any signs of leakage and other areas as well, but the cause was the cap.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I filled up as much as possible with the bleeder valve open but was left with a bit in the fill bottle, so I warmed it up and drove around a bit and was able to put all of it back in there.
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26 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I noticed a new small leak from the left backside of the car yesterday. I'm going to take some stuff apart today to see if I can trace it from above, but was maybe looking for a head start.
thanks for your ideas
todd
99 coupe
Well, here's a start. That's the water pump. You sure it's oil and maybe not some dried coolant that got dirty? So far as I know there are no oil connections in that area.
Dave! has it right. Water pump. Leak is not from gasket but from either coolant seeping past outlying bearing/seal or from a tell tale hole in housing with the hole located between the inner bearing/seal and the outer bearing/seal.
Time to replace the water pump.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Coolant. Not oil. Color fooled me. The new screech, squeal may be related
How is R&R of the Water Pump? Time for a little search . . .
thanks guys
todd
99 coupe
Water pump is not to hard to do. The trick is to block uner the engine to support it and then remove the engine support bracket. this allows easy access to the bolts holding the pump on. With the support bracket in place it is a PITA to get at all the bolts.
Also, you have to drain the coolant, and once you do this it can be hard to get all the air out of the system. You can repeatedly use the bleeder on the coolant tank, or buy an Airlift II. Here is one on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-A.../dp/B0002SRH5G
Look around, you might find one for less. They work great and make the process easy. But you do need a compressor for shop air to make it work.
Thanks. Ordered one and will do it as soon as it get in. Not driving the car until then. There are some nice writeups on this.
I don't have a compressor, so I will have to use the bleeder. OH, how does it work? I suppose I ought to get the coolant from the dealer. Or. is there an equivalent aftermarket coolant? Time for anither search . . .
Some owners and the dealers swear by the Porsche coolant, and at aobut $25+ a gallon I can't balame the dealers. I use Peak, either the 50/50 mix of the full strength mixed with distilled water, about $8-$10 a gallon. The bleeder is the black cap on the top of the tank, There is a metal rign that pivots, Put it up and it will bleed air out of the system when it is hot.
Just replaced the water pump. One of the bolts is a pain, but otherwise the job isn't too bad. The bearing was shot.
I just reused the coolant since it was pretty recent. So, the refill quantitiy is a non-factor. I lost a small amount when I removed the two hoses from the water pump [less than 10 oz I would think].
I want to make sure I get the cooling system bled properly. I filled up as much as possible with the bleeder valve open but was left with a bit in the fill bottle, so I warmed it up and drove around a bit and was able to put all of it back in there. It is up to the filler neck though and it wasn't before. So, I suspect there is still some air bleeding to do.
Should I just drive it and check it? I'd like to know more about how the bleeder valve works? Should I drive it with the valve open, closed, or what?
thanks
Having recently completed this very DIY here is my 2 cents. Bring it up to temp
and then allow it to cool completely (over night). Top off coolant and then
repeat the cycle again as needed to purge the air out of system. It took me three cycles to complete.
I am slowly losing coolant but can't figure from where. I would say I have to top it off less than once a month. I might buy that airlift tool to pressure check the coolant system. Any suggestions for places to look for a leak?
Two highly probably causes:
1) Coolant tank top may be leaking. The part number for latest version of the top ends in 04 (I think).
2) Coolant tank. They crack at the bottom of the tank, presumably from the heat off the engine. If it is leaking, there will be a white, crusty residue at the bottom, on the outside of the tank.
To add to TimK's reply: Coolant cap. The one on my 02 Boxster developed a leak that caused water vapor to escape and lower the tank level to the point warning light came on.
That the cap leaking was suggested by condensation under rear trunk lid and around cap. I did check tank for any signs of leakage and other areas as well, but the cause was the cap.
Bought new cap, topped up level with distilled water, and with new cap in place level has remained static now for months (year maybe?).
Sincerely,
Macster.
Got to look at the engine bay in good sunlight. There is definitely white residue from coolant on the underside on the deck lid as well as around the cap/bleeder area. There was a definite white line along a seam on the bleeder. Is it common for the bleeders to leak?
I replaced the cap with my new one, which was the updated version with part number ending in 04. The one removed from the car ended in 01.
I added distilled water, probably less than 20mL. So I really hadn't lost too much over a couple months' time.
Thread is a few months old but I wanted to add an update on the solution to my problem:
I was losing coolant and also getting lots of goop on the inside of my oil fill cap (despite driving the car all the time).
I replaced the coolant overflow tank cap as well as the big oring that is on the inside of the oil cap and it totally fixed both problems. Inside of oil fill cap is totally clean now and the coolant level is rock steady. Yay!
I never had this problem, but I don't recall anyone talking about replacing big o-ring on the inside of the oil cap. That will be a good one to remember to help some guys attempt a quick and low cost remedy for the oil cap gunk. Nice!
I just replaced mine too. I bought the Pierburg OEM type from Pelican, a site sponsor. DONT buy the cheap Ebay water pumps!
It took me all of about 10 or 15 minutes to replace the water pump.
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