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YOUR RESEARCHRear Main Seal
Leading reported evidence
Install along
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Had at the same time the "new" IMS end cap with its 3-ribbed seal installed along with the microencapsulated bolts too.
Leading evidence: 'Install along' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check crankshaft' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
There is a tool gage that is to be used to check crankshaft for out of position.
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Suggestion
General procedure is to replace IMS end cap seal with new 3-ribbed one along with micro-encapsulated bolts to prevent oil seeping past threads.
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12 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T005001Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
RMS on 2003 C2 Cab
I am on my 3rd RMS. (2nd IMS is dry) All replaced under warranty
I have a question about these seals. I saw the new replacement before they put in yesterday, is it true that Porsche does not put a tension spring around the lip of these seals? Evidently the new Cayenne seal has a lip.
Does anyone know what the thinking is on that? Is the crankcase pressure supposed to pressurize the lip enough to seal it? What happens when the seal gets older and harder? What happens in the winter when the car is parked facing up hill?
RMS has been redesigned several times and new installation instructions issued to that deal with incorrect installation.
There have been a few reported cases where the crankshaft was found to be out of position and a RMS will never long seal in this situation. Engine replacement is the only solution. There is a tool gage that is to be used to check crankshaft for out of position.
Also, an RMS may be misdiagnosed.The IMS end cap plate seal can leak from either the seal or the bolt threads. General procedure is to replace IMS end cap seal with new 3-ribbed one along with micro-encapsulated bolts to prevent oil seeping past threads.
Sincerely,
Macster.
That is a good question. I am not sure but that could play a part in why it leaks.
The thing I can't wrap my head around is why Porsche does not have a seating flange so you can tap the seal in until it seats instead of a tool that maintains squareness.......like everyone else in the world.....
Obviously, the Porsche engineers never saw the show McGiver. If they had, they would have used duct tape around the edge of the seal and the seal would never leak. Duct tape ALWAYS worked for McGiver!
i've been told that even the newest updated porsche RMS seals still leak.
my RMS is leaking pretty bad and Paul at Protomotive/Protosport knows of a racing seal that he swears by and says will never leak again. you should look into it
I'm not a mechanic, but I would wonder about cause and effect here. Is the RMS leaking because else is wrong? I have 88,000 miles on mine and my RMS is dry as a bone.
where the old seal was. If there is any wear of the crankshaft where old seal's lip was the new seal will locate in that wear groove and leak.
With some room to play with new seal can be installed to where the new seal ummm seals at a fresh unworn area.
Not sure why RMS still a problem. I had one replaced in my '02 Boxster some 180,000+ miles ago and it is still oil tight.
Had at the same time the "new" IMS end cap with its 3-ribbed seal installed along with the microencapsulated bolts too. (All under warranty.)
Sincerely,
Macster.
If the seal had a tensioning spring around the chevron, even a worn spot would be encapsulated like the OP was wondering about.
I am not fond of placing a seal in a different spot to band aid a crap design.
If Ford, Toyota, and Subraru can have leakless motors, why can't Porsche?
a oil tight RMS. I've never owned a Toyota (aka Two Old Yuppies Own This Auto), or Subraru, but I owned two Fords. The 1st an '89 Tempo -- bought new -- was crap. 'nuff said. And thankfully I've forgotten the trials/tribulations I had with that. course, I didn't learn my lesson and bought traded it in for a new '96 Mustang GT.
The '96 Mustang GT (bought new too and *not* thrashed like so many were) was the most oil leaking POS ever. I had that thing in to the shop for oil leaks maybe a half dozen times. (Steering rack replacement, too, and other things I now -- thank God -- have forgotten).
Several times the oil leak was so bad the hot oil dripping on the even hotter exhaust made the car smoke to the point you could hardly see it (color was white). I was hoping the thing would catch fire and burn down to the ground.
Then when the oil leaks finally were fixed the composite intake manifold decided fail and dump coolant all over inside of engine compartment.
(Before I got rid of car -- at around 120,000 miles (the odometer stopped working and dealer couldn't find anything wrong with it...) the replacement intake manifold failed too (about the same time the one in my Dad's '96 Crown Vic and about a zillion other Fords of that era). At Ford dealer in Independence Mo to get car fixed and there were several piles of bad manifolds awaiting boxing and shipment back to Ford. You couldn't hit me hard enough, long enough, with a big enough stick to force me to buy another Ford, ever.)
The only experience I've had with a Subie is indirectly via a co-worker who owns one and his Subies's engine burnt a valve -- got some picture so this valve -- not too long ago. Engine has/had less than 100,000 miles on it.
My 02 Boxster with over 207,000 miles on it has been the best car I've ever owned.
Sincerely,
Macster.
