what's the proper torque for the wheel lugs?

i know you can probably just sockem down, but I've got a torque wrench so might as well do it right.

Its in your owners manual and I think it said 130 mn. I would double check this!!!!

96 foot pounds for us non metric people.

Thanks. Didn't figure it would be in the manual.

i put it at 100 to be safe. Bobby

Would 500 ft/lbs be 5 times safer????

Assuming you were serious...and equipped with either a geared ratchet to achieve 500 ft/lbs...or the air system to realise such, herewith my thoughts: Only if you think metal seperating form metal is a good idea. The bolts are designed for 96 ft/lbs. Yes there will be a higher max design torque load, but pushing out to 500 ft/lbs is singulalry unwise. More than likely you'll over load the nut head...and then you'll discover the concept of sheering...

Stem was tongue in cheek. I believe what he meant was that the safest is the specified torque, not more, not less. Just 96.

Say, Bryan, SWEEEEEEET looking ride BTW. Did you have the factory paint the wheels?

I do believe that the wheel locks that come with the car should be at torqued lower. At about 53 ft. lbs. That's what I've been told.

You are correct Palting. These engineerin gguys figure out torque specs for a reason. Too little could be as bad as too much!! That's why I bring my glasses to the track. So I can read my torque wrench!

Pardon my noob questions... Would this be a sufficient torque wrench? Are there any specific brands that are above the competition that I should look for? What else do I need to go with the torque wrench, i.e. sockets and what sizes? Thanks a lot

Is that accurate about the wheel lock only being torqued to 53 pounds?

I believe that most torque wrenches are accurate within +/- 4 pounds. Thats why I torque it up to 100. Im sure a couple pounds over will not hurt anything but 10 or 20 will. Bobby

That Sears model looks to be OK!!! You can spend lots more (Snap On, etc.) but your nuts may not be able to tell any difference. Your wallet may, however! Ask the guys at your dealership or garage what they prefer. They use them all the time and have no reason to steer you wrong!

Didn't think of that Thanks!

Damn... I thought it was supposed to be 90. I've been doing 88 out of habit from BMWs.

I have a few click style torque wrenches. Any torque wrench is better than no torque wrench. As pointed out you can have up to a 4% error. The difference between 96 and 100 foot pounds on a wheel bolt is nothing. The locking wheel bolt should be torqued to the same value as the other 4. The key for the locking wheel bolt is known to break. If you track your car it also slows down a wheel change. Guys I know who track their car remove the locking one and replace it with a standard one. I have not seen the Sears wrench in the link in person. I do not like the Sears wrenches which I think are called micro something. They are like an old Snap-On and have a ring you twist to lock the torque setting. On a Snap-On the ring is metal - on Sears it is plastic, and I have seen them break. In my opinion the best value for a DIYer is the one sold by Home Depot. CDI is owned by Snap-On. I have several and they are good. You can find decent used ones on ebay without the Snap-On price.