Nice work. 2 Questions, did you have to raise up the engine while you were replacing them with a jack, and how hard was the air pump to remove? I'm assuming only a few bolts, but just wanted to confirm. This is my next DIY.
Cheers,
DS
Quotes source post: 10047873
Yes the engine has to be raised as otherwise the weight of it is on the mounts. To do this you just place a jack under it and lift. There are other threads on exactly where this is done and you should use a piece of wood or something to keep from going metal on metal.
The air pump removal is really simple. Three bolts, a hose, and an electrical connection I believe. The whole process sounds intimidating but is really easy, no special skills required to get this job done.
Glad it worked out for you!
How does it feel with the new mounts?
I did this 2 weeks back, honestly it didn't fix all that much of the interior and chassis idle vibration. Next culprit tip trans mount is on my list.
man that engine bay is almost at clean as a virgin pu$$y! How do you keep is that way?
996 with 997 Cold Air Box
Mine looked identical, too, after 48k miles on my '02. Stretched/collapsed about 5/8"? I also used the Reins from Pelican. Also haven't tried them yet, car still up on lift. EZ-PZ to replace.
Now got to change out oil cooler o-rings.
Quotes source post: 10049512
Do you know where the cracked trans mount was located? Suncoast Porsche responded that there isn't really a transmission mount so to speak on the manualt trans. They included a schematic and they thing I saw in the schematic was perhaps in the trans tail piece, but there was no part listed.
Thanks Krazy - that's exactly the part I saw in the schematic - part number did the trick. I might be chasing a ghost, but ever since Porsche installed a rebuilt trans under CPO warranty I've had some clutch issues. Just had the clutch replaced but the disc was like new so I assumed the pressure plate was weak. Everything works fine now, but I can't stop thinking that there must be a reason that a pressure plate would go in just 50k miles while the clutch plate remained as new.
Before I had it replaced I thought it odd that if I ran the car to 4,000 RPM or higher the clutch would work fine for a short bit.
Now I am thinking a bad mount somewhere that allowed something to twist and was causing something to bind. Also thinking that if the release bearing isn't making full contact with the pressure plate arms under such a condition that only a portion of the plate is taking the full force, and perhaps causing the plate to fail prematurely.
I might just go with motor mounts and a trans mount to get things off of my mind.
And who knows - I might just break out the floor jack, jack stands, dust off some tools and attempt the motor mounts as a DIY. That would be a first for me on these cars. I usually only clean them and drive them, a lot.
I'm guessing most jacks will be fine holding up only the motor for an hour or two, since the motor weighs a fraction of what the whole rear (or front) of the car weighs - right?
Just don't put the jack under the oil pan. It will/may crack. Mine was when I removed it to inspect for metal when I installed the Guardian, and it looked like someone used a jack under the round pick up depression.
Right, same place some have said you can lift the rear of the car by - that beefy casting area.
