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YOUR RESEARCHQuestion on failing oil pressure sending unit
Leading reported evidence
Replace few times and it doesn't take long
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Mine has been replaced a few times and it doesn't take long for it to go haywire.
Leading evidence: 'Replace few times and it doesn't take long' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect battery' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Zanz, Its a good idea to disconnect battery before you start.
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Suggestion
I lived like that for a year with intermittent scares of pressure showing zero - when I did spark plug service had indie replace sender for basically cost of part since He already had access - I think it was around $40 if I recall right.
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Suggestion
just replace the sensor, it's easy to do and not that expensive.
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Suggestion
You can run like that for ever - but if oil pressure is low for some other reason gauge will not be reliable to alert you.
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Suggestion
I lived like that for a year with intermittent scares of pressure showing zero - when I did spark plug service had indie replace sender for basically cost of part since He already had access - I think it was around $40 if I recall right.
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2001 C2
When I start the car it pegs up,
Ounce I reach temperature
It functions.
How long do I have before complete failure, and at some point will it leak oil ?
Hurdi is correct, what you posted makes no sense.
On cold start up oil pressure is supposed to be pegged at 5 BAR because oil is at its thinnest when cold. Once car warms up, oil pressure will drop as oil warms up and gets thicker.
When sensor fails you will get a dash warning telling you that "sensor failure" occurred. Once it fails, it will not leak oil; your oil pressure gauge will not work. That is it.
Not 0w40. 0 weight when cold for easy starts up cold weather, 40 weight when hot to reduce the thinning.
Most multi-grade oils were developed to be used in four seasons and behave essentially like two different oils in one. 0w40 in Porsches will behave as 0w (very light) oil in cold weather and on cold start ups, and it will behave as 40w (heavy) oil when engine is at the operating temperature.
When sender starts failing it will peg high, randomly work and occasionally drop to zero. Will not leak oil ( unless it is not screwed in properly in first place). You can run like that for ever - but if oil pressure is low for some other reason gauge will not be reliable to alert you. I lived like that for a year with intermittent scares of pressure showing zero - when I did spark plug service had indie replace sender for basically cost of part since He already had access - I think it was around $40 if I recall right. This is also a DIY fix - but needs right tools ( crowfoot ) and is a little tight in there.....
0W-40 = When cold no thicker then "0" when warm no thinner then "40"
Viscosity
http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Oil_Labelling_Explained
Most oils on the shelves today are Multigrades, which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)
Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.
In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the “W” number the better the oils cold temperature/cold start performance.
The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100 degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.
more on viscosity
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viscosity
The oil pressure sending switches are junk when they are brand new. One of the really poor quality parts on this car. Mine has been replaced a few times and it doesn't take long for it to go haywire.
This is an easy and cheap fix. I just replaced mine for about $70 to $80. You can even change it from the top without even lifting the car.
Mine started the usual crazy needle jumping symptoms. Should be good for another 10 years now.
Zanz, Its a good idea to disconnect battery before you start. I removed the airbox and unbolted the terminal connection bracket for a little more room.
Unplug the two wires then use a 19MM or 3/4 crows foot with extension(s) and ratchet. Mine was really tight but I was patient with it and able to complete the job from the top. Be very careful to not get crazy with it and break it off in the block. Easy DIY and the oil pressure reading looks great now.
There are several DIY's posted but I dont remember if any are from the top method.
had the same problem recently with the same year car. just replace the sensor, it's easy to do and not that expensive. I had it done with an entire suite of mechanical fixes.
Thanks for additional info
I've been working on cars for a long time and it strikes me as
Percular that there have never
Been any advancements in these sending units
This on reminds me of the
One on my old bmw 2002
Only larger and more clumsily
Sized
I wish I had a proper DIY article for the replacement but there are certainly some here on the list. We carry Genuine Porsche sending units,
click here
for product info if you are looking for sources.
Mark/Pelican Parts
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
