High oil pressure in 996 after oil change

I changed the oil and filter in my 2001, 3.4L 996. After the change I noticed the pressure is at the 5 on the oil pressure gauge when rpm is at 3k or above. It lowers below 3k and at idle is about 2.5 on the gauge. Is this cause for concern? I have a cartridge filter. Is there a top and bottom. There were no flow arrows or indication of flow on the filter.

Sounds about right to me. What oil did you use.......

Sounds about right to me also - but be aware the oil pressure sending unit is problematic on these cars and that drastic oil pressure changes usually are caused by the unit failing. If it is not the unit...you got bigger issues.

Castrol syntec full synthetic 10w-40

You probably had 5w30 or even (ick) 0-30 in there before, so the pressure is showing a bit higher with the thicker oil. I think you'll be fine. Michael

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That oil is not on Porsche's approved oil list. There has been a ton (do a search) of discussion on the topic of oil. In my opinion, I have never seen a convincing argument for using an oil outside of Porsches recommendations. However, I have seen several articles in "Excellence" and other publications that offer strong reasons for using a Porsche Approved Oil. Other opinions can (and do) vary. Good luck. PS: I predict at least 5 pages.

oh no... not another oil thread.

As Ray told you , better to go for an approved oil, but best thing you can do is to do a search . I tried to learn as much as possible from an expert in lubricants (Chemistry engineer) and he advise to use Mobil 1 0W40 and (better than Castrol Edge 0W40) if the engine is new, and after 25.000 miles use Mobil 1 5W50 according to my climate conditions. I live in Madrid (Spain) The high viscosity 50 of the Mobil 1 is the only you can find in the Posche approved list. This is the oil I use, and I change it every 10.000 km I'm sure that other Chemistry Engineer would advise a different oil... this is a very subjective discussion and a neverending story.... If you are bored here you can learn a bit http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Yep, BITOG is an excellent resource. Also keep in mind that although you need some oil pressure for oil flow, too much oil pressure is resistance (for lack of better term) to oil flow. Dr. A.E. Haas, an oil hobbyist, has written great articles on this, although he is of the camp of thinner oils vs thicker oils. Lastly, I know the BITOG guys are not impressed w/ one of the Mobil-1 flavors... I think it's the 0W-40 because it shears down to a 30 weight at relatively short mileage. They tend to recommend the Mobil-1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck weight for those that want/need a 40 weight and long oil intervals. ///Michael

Make sure you install the oil filter element onto the engine, then install the housing. If you place the element into the housing and then screw it onto the engine, the filter element can distort. Use Mobil-1 0/40

Some time ago I notised a quiet ticking sound when starting a cold engine. Some people on the forum advised that the sound is caused by hydraulic valve lifters when the oil pressure has not come up yet. I added about 0,5 litre oil to my engine and the ticking almost went away. Judging by this, the advice I was given was correct. Like said, I added only 0,5 litres of oil but the oil level display on the dash board went up by 2 to 3 bars (marks?). Also, my oil pressure gauge started showing a lot higher numbers, just like you noticed after your oil change. There is quite a high volume of oil in these engines, right? It is a bit odd that such a small amount of oil added has so much effect on how the engine works.

Have you seen the dipstick? I prefer to give a look to the dipstick in cold conditions

You're car is behaving normal. Try to use the proper oil and filter next time. Mobil one and Mahle oil filter is the way to go.

You never want an idle oil pressure of less that 1.5 bar (2 bar is better) at any time. You should have 4+ bar at engine speeds above 2500. Mobil 0W40 will not give you proper pressure when hot so it should be avoided. Remember that a contibuter to engine oil pressure drop when engine gets hot is the increase in engine component clearances, removing restriction for flow. As a note: increased oil pressure does not, in any way, reflect what actual oil flow is. Lower oil pressure does not mean more flow and higher pressure does not mean less flow.

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I took my car in for change at about 10k km (6000 miles) and the shop told me to wait. Said that synthetic oils worked better with some age. They suggested that way too many people dont let the oil run long enough to do its job. They also suggested Shell Helix Ultra 5/40 for the PNW. another oil thread Who wants to go for beers!

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There are lots of different opinions. Who knows the plain truth???? another oil thread Who wants to go for beers! +1

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I think your mechanic be right. This is something I found a few years ago: linky, linky Having said all of that, I plan on doing 7500 mile/1 year oil intervals. ///Michael

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That is what I was told at the Finlands only Porsche dealer. "No need to change oil inbetween the scheduled services". Taking into account that the service is done every 20.000 km and the car is a sports car that sounds like a lot of kilometres to me with same oil.

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There is a question: Porsche dealers do the oil change every 20.000 kms in a 996. But, if you consider that 996 Carrera Mk II 3.6 l. models have the same engine that 997 Carrera Mk I 3.6 models, .... why have they extended the oil change interval to 30.000 km? They have the same engine, and they use the same Mobil 1 oil. Why? Could anyone explain it to me? Are we being robbed by the dealer? The engine is the same. There are minimal changes, so is not justified. My Porsche private specialist mechanic advise me to do the oil change every 10.000 km or one time per year, including the oil filter. He's the owner of several Porsche and usually does the oil change every 5.000 kms. I'm sure that Porsche dealers want to get a good feedback with their clients and It's better for the dealer get always a check inspection every 20.000 - 30.000 kms in their installations than loose clients who go to private specialist, because the interval inspection would be closer to 10.000 km. The cost of them would cause that clients would look for another solution. That's why I think Porsche dealers, and other brands have a long time inspections to assure the clients go there. The oil is the engine life. And we are talking about Porsche, a sport car which we usually drive fast and like to demand high revolutions to enjoy. Porsche are made to enjoy their drive and the hard conditions we undergo with a sporty drive during a complete year (you know that they suffer in cold starts) makes advisable to do the oil change before it began to wear. There isn't a money question with the oil, so you know the 911's purchase price and the oil is a cheap stuff. So I usually do the oil change by myself every 10.000 km. A chemistry engineer told me that I was doing the right thing too.