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YOUR RESEARCHDoes Dawn really take off Wax and RejeX?
Leading reported evidence
Use clay
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
Depending on the paint condition, using clay after this may be in order (to help remove contaminants on the paint).
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I use clay once in a while to take off bugs or something and it doesn't remove the wax from the area noticably.
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I used Dawn to clean off any unwanted goop, including wax from the cars.
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I have used Rejex but have not tried to remove it with Dawn but I belive it will.
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Suggestion
Check the clay periodically to see what it looks like.
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Suggestion
I don't pretend to know the chemistry of soaps and but I have a question....Dishwashing soaps are designed first to clean dishes and the battle has primarily been fought over the ability to "cut thru" and "clean" and "remove" grease from dishes, pots & pans, etc.
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Yes.
To begin, wash the car thoroughly using liquid dawn dish soap. You may find that washing twice will do the trick.
Depending on the paint condition, using clay after this may be in order (to help remove contaminants on the paint). Then start fresh. If there are swirls, you may consider paint cleaner, hand glaze, machine glaze/polish, and start with the least abrasive then move stronger if needed.
Once it is completely swirl/scratch free, hit it with wax. I started using Rejex on the new '04 C4S Cab last year, and was blown away at how easy it went on, and how well it performed on the paint. As a result, I added it to the BumperPlugs.com lineup. It is a patented product that will bond to the finish, making weekly washings much faster (most crud hoses right off). Use it on the wheels too!
Dawn may or may not remove all wax and probably will not remove a sealant like rejex. If you are going to compound, or polish or use a paint cleaner any of them will remove wax or any sealant without being harmful to your paint. Dawn is not necessary and is very harsh.
I don't think dishwashing soap removes Rejex...perhaps a standard wax, but not Rejex. Straight from their website: "Abrasive cleaners, polishes, rubbing compounds or chemical paint strippers will remove the RejeX film.".
Rejex is awesome!! I let Kirby try it out on his car for nearly a year before I bought into it.
Great stuff; I wouldn't go back to carnuba even if you paid me.
I thought someone posted recedntly that they used rejex on windows...does anyone do that, and does that include the windshield? If so, how does that affect the wipers' action? Also, how about the headlights? Do you rejex them? If so, any cloudiness due to heat?
(BTW.. I am a recent rejex convert, but I don't like it for wheels...seems to attract brake dust)
That depends on how you define Polish/Glaze. A glaze that merely fills swirls will not do a good job of removing prior wax/sealant. However, a polish or glaze with abrasives will definitely remove any wax/sealant...in this case you are correct a Dawn was would not be necessary.
each spring i get the orbital buffer out and polish then glaze. i usually do Dawn first to "strip" the wax; but, to be honest, it never seems like the Dawn does anything. Water usually beads up exactly the same as it did before. This time I am going to wet clay the paint before doing the polish/glaze routine so I will probably go ahead and do the Dawn thing??
Does anyone else but me think twice about using a product that has a name Rejex? It sounds like something that was thrown away or discarded then rebottled and sold to Porsche drivers...
I use dawn before using clay. Some above have mentioned that dawn is not necessary if you're going to use the clay, because the clay will take the old wax off. I would still wash the car, though, whether with dawn or other soap to get it as clean as possible before rubbing any clay or other compound on the paint. The cleaner the car the easier it will be to work with the clay.
Most hand dishwashing fluids contain a glycol product to help soften hands and keep them from drying out. Glycol is residual and attracts water (hence the soft hands - keeps them moist). I can't imagine Dawn attacking wax for removal & it will leave a residual making it harder for a fine abrasive to get to the paint.
If you want a gentle detergent use woolite to wash (no residual), don't let it dry in the sun...
I don't pretend to know the chemistry of soaps and but I have a question....Dishwashing soaps are designed first to clean dishes and the battle has primarily been fought over the ability to "cut thru" and "clean" and "remove" grease from dishes, pots & pans, etc. It would seem logical that this cleaning ability would apply to traditional carnauba waxes.
Zaino as synthetic/polymer similar to Rejex, specifically indicates that oils, carnauba waxes, etc. interfere with its ability to "bond" with the paint and will reduce the durability of the product. The solution that Zaino suggest for proper application of their product and to obtain the best durability is to was the car with "Dawn" dishwasing soap b/c it removes the waxes, oils and fillers.
While it's primary detergent purpose may be to wash dishes, manufacturers still design the chemistry to moisten hands and petroleum distillates like glycol have a residual nature. Just my .02
I have been using carnuba wax and clay on several cars for years. Dawn will definitely remove carnuba based wax and it should be removed prior to using clay in my opinion.
Clay may remove some wax. But is is not a good idea to try to remove wax from your car with clay as at best it will be a spotty job. I use clay once in a while to take off bugs or something and it doesn't remove the wax from the area noticably. I usually "touch up" the area with either wax or speedshine type products.
Dawn, clay, then wax or apply Rejex if you will. I ordered some from Bumperplugs to try by the way. Best overall price I found there.
Bill
Please don't take this wrong as I don't mean to preach.Clay is not designed to remove wax. Clay to remove dirt in the paint, like the residue from brake dust, bug, industrial pollution, and other contaminants that do not wash off with normal washing. If you use a polish or compound or paint cleaner it will remove wax and or rejex. Dawn is for dishes. Its ph may damage paint not noticeable immediately but over long term. Plus some petroleum distalates can also penetrate paint and harm the rubber in bumbers and also rubber trim, leading to early fading. For a spring detail, I would wash with a good car wash soap, meguirs(sp?) gold class etc, clay using either soapy water or the lubricant that comes with it. Then depending on the condition of the paint, if you have fine scratches and a lot of swirls compound, if not go directly to a good polish/paint cleaner, then wax or rejex. This is just my experience. I worked for three years for a high end detailer, so take it for what it is worth.
Question about the application, should I dilute the soap by adding it to the water or put it on directly on the car. Seems to be if its diluted in the water it would be doing much.
Also I bought a clay bar, but have no idea how to use it, though it does a good job of being sticky and leaving smudges on the paint. How do u use it?
Dilute the soap in water.
Don't use the clay dry on your paint. When you using clay you have to use a lubricant of some sort. Some clay come with a lubricant if not, no worries. A quick detailer works but can be quite expensive. A good car wash soap mixed with water in a spray bottle works great and is very economical.
My method of using clay bar are as follows:
First, I cut/break/chop the bar into pieces (maybe 7-10). Take a piece and roll it around in your hand to soften it up, then flatten it out with your fingers to something about the size between a quarter and a silver dollar (not the SusanB size). I cut it up into pieces because I don't like fold onto itself method because I think that you have a better chance of sratching your paint with something the clay removes, additionally if you drop it (an you will) it is toast.
Next spray the lubricant you are using, generously on the paint. I would suggest starting on a horizontal surface like the hood or roof to get the hang of things before going to the vertical surfaces. Using very little pressure "glide" the flattened clay piece in a straight back and forth motion. You will feel the the resistance to the "gliding" get less after a few passes. When it glides very easily move on to another spot. The spots should be fairly small at a time and feel free to respray as much lubricant. In fact use much more than you think necessary.
Check the clay periodically to see what it looks like. If it is dirty looking or you see a piece of debris fold the clay (so that the dirt is in the fold) and continue with a clean side. You may be able to get one more fold. Use a clean side and then flip it over and use the last clean side. After this discard and get a new piece of clay.
This a very conservative approach and you will more than likely waste some clay, but it is safe because you are less likely to "glide" the clay with a piece of debris on it and thereby scratch your paint.
Does that make sense?
In my experance Dawn will remove Zaino and is an effective way to remove tree sap and other bad stuff easily assuming you have put on a good coat of Zaino before you got the tree sap. I have used Rejex but have not tried to remove it with Dawn but I belive it will. After trying both products I prefer Zaino. Don't ask me why? I just think it last longer. It may be my imagination. For all I know they are the same stuff.
Yes. This is coming from a guy that used to design and install racing graphics. I used Dawn to clean off any unwanted goop, including wax from the cars. Works great.
Chad