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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHRotor Specs
Leading reported evidence
Use sensors and they were flaky
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I agree unnecsessary but DAMN SMART on most cars since replacing the pads before the rivets or backs of the pads damage the rotors saves tons of money -
Leading evidence: 'Use sensors and they were flaky' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace pads' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
What's the indication for turning the rotors when replacing pads?
I agree unnecsessary but DAMN SMART on most cars since replacing the pads before the rivets or backs of the pads damage the rotors saves tons of money -
Replace pads as well as the switches, will the light
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Suggestion · Original poster
Also, if I got the "brake wear" light, replace the pads as well as the switches, will the light reset, or is this going to be my excuse to buy the durametric cable/software setup?
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Suggestion
In our cars dont most people replace the rotors when doing pads anyhow....
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Suggestion
Replace the sensors with new ones and the circuit will be complete and your light will go out.
I agree unnecsessary but DAMN SMART on most cars since replacing the pads before the rivets or backs of the pads damage the rotors saves tons of money -
Replace pads as well as the switches, will the light
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Also, if I got the "brake wear" light, replace the pads as well as the switches, will the light reset, or is this going to be my excuse to buy the durametric cable/software setup?
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
8 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T003124Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Can anyone tell me the minimum rotor specs front/rear?
Also, if I got the "brake wear" light, replace the pads as well as the switches, will the light reset, or is this going to be my excuse to buy the durametric cable/software setup?
Quickest responder gets a prize!
Hmmmm
I was told they are not machinable... yet that says "after machining"
and BTW the specs are TIGHT !! - thats really flat and parallel !! - not every brake lathe can hit those numbers -
Thanks, you get a high-five. You can upgrade to a high-ten for $.47.
What's the indication for turning the rotors when replacing pads? Is that unequivocally necessary?
So...the prize is a virtual high five? RIP OFF! j/k
By the way - the story on the switches is that they are a loop of wire encased in a small plastic cylinder wihich fits *inside* the brake pad. Either end of this wire plugs into a socket mounted on the strut.
When the pad wears, the little plastic cylinder (and of course the wire inside it)wears through and the circuit is broken. That's when the light comes on.
Replace the sensors with new ones and the circuit will be complete and your light will go out.
Now, here's the trick...in my previous car, the P.O. had re-used the sensors and they were flaky. I got frustrated chasing ghosts, as I could see there was lot's of pad so what I did was took all but the front right sensor out, cut off the connectors at the strut end and tied the wires together. So now, assuming the front pads wear at about the same rate, I get an in indication of low front pads when the front right gets low. The rears wear more slowly, but if the light comes on it's time to chack all the pads.
These wear sensors are kind of unnecessary in my opinion....you can see through the wheel how much pad you have left.
but you have to look -
I agree unnecsessary but DAMN SMART on most cars since replacing the pads before the rivets or backs of the pads damage the rotors saves tons of money -
In our cars dont most people replace the rotors when doing pads anyhow.... so if they get ruined - awe... whats the point again
on my truck the pads just got low enough for the wear tab to rub on the rotor when turning - I explained to the kids how smart this is because it sounds like hell and most people will take their car in when it sounds like hell.... and not a minute sooner - so the car is still safe, the rotors are fine, and a swap of pads gets you going again....
Thats a simple, cheap and smart feature to newer model cars IMO
the virtual high five ? come on.. if its virtual... use some imagination
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