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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHDoor opening/window question
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Replace when done
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Suggestion · Original poster
However, it doesn't change when done from the inside.
Leading evidence: 'Replace when done' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace when done' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
These instructions are for replacing the window regulator and they include how to remove the door panel.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I also tried the reset/relearn once more, and still no change.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Unfortunately, the window reset didn't change anything.
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I've started to have a problem with my passenger's side window. When I open the door, it moves down a little bit, but not as much as it should. Therefore, when I close the door, it gets caught on the weather strip and doesn't close properly. The window functions normally otherwise.
I've searched here and it seems like this might be the window regulator. Does this sound correct? If so, I saw mention that this was a DIY job with a cheap replacement part.
Can anybody point me in the right direction for the part and a DIY guide?
Thanks,
Lower the window and continue to depress teh button for about 10 seconds. Raise the window and continue to depress the botton for 10 seconds. Repeat this process down and up a second time.
See if that resets the window.
Sounds like your window regulator is about to kaput.
Next step is the crunching sounds.
It took me about 2 hours to do mine following the shop manual. I know some people have made write-ups here.
I had the exact same issue. Tried the reset etc...did not work. The part was a window switch of some sort.
All in all... cost $450 at the dealer(covered by the extended warranty luckily).
Dennis,
These instructions are for replacing the window regulator and they include how to remove the door panel.
Door Panel Removal
Click on the pics in the link to enlarge them.
No progress at this point. I tried the reset twice, to no avail.
Tim - is there a way that I can determine if my issue is the regulator or if it is the microswitch?
Thanks,
Dennis,
As near as I can recall. if you pull the door handle and hear a
whirring
noise, then that means that the micro switch has activated the regulator, but he regulator is not working. If you don't hear a
whirring
noise, then the micro switch is bad.
Maybe someone will pop in here to refute or confirm this.
Dennis, that is what mine did before it started crunching. The cable strectches in the window regulator ("bowden system") causing the travel of the window to decrease.
Try this.
Open your door and try to gently lift the window up and down. If it moves, the cable is stretched and the window regulator in about to die.
The pulleys in the window regulator are plastic and could cause issue too.
If it is firm (window doesnt really move), it must be something else IMO.
I just went out to the garage and tried the door again.
When I pull the handle, there is a noise, almost like a light "pop" noise as the window glass is pulling away from the rubber seal, but the window hardly moves at all. It moves less than 1/8 of an inch. I don't hear any whirring or other noises after the initial light "pop" noise that it makes as it moves ever so slightly away from the rubber seal.
Once the door is open, I cannot move the window up or down by pulling or pushing on it manually. There is no play in it at all - it feels very solid.
The window continues to operate normally otherwise.
I also tried the reset/relearn once more, and still no change.
Thoughts? Sounding more like a microswitch to me, but I don't know...
Is there a good DIY for a microswitch replacement?
Reading some other threads, it appears that there are two microswitches, one for the interior and one for the exterior door pull. I'll go try and see if it makes any difference if I pull one or the other.
Okay... further examination...
Opening the door from the inside, I can clearly hear the motor turning as the window attempts to open.
I tried again to push down on the window, rather than pulling it up, and I can push it down. When I close the door, it moves back up into the proper position. This is starting to feel like slack in the system, which is now pointing me back towards a regulator replacement or adjustment.
Thanks Tippy for all the help, but I believe I'm on the right track now.
You know what? Is the window making the noise from physically pulling it off the weatherstripping or from the door handle?
If it makes the pop and the window doesnt move, then it must be the external microswitch.
Get in the car close the door, and see if the window operates normally from the internal door pull.
If it does and the window rolls like a 1/2", the external switch must be dead as someone else stated.
The pop sounds to me like it is the glass pulling away from the weatherstripping.
However, it doesn't change when done from the inside.
I'm now guessing that there is too much slack in the cables. It it tight enough to pull it away a little bit, but not far enough.
Thats what I think, but do any of the pulls make the motor/window make a sound?
I mean, can you pull the pulls but not physically move the door to see and hear if the switches are making the motor move?
Watching this thread with interest. My driver side door gets out of sync with the 1/2 inch drop. Sometimes it doesn't drop at all. Sometimes it drops then pops right back up.
Passenger door is grinding / crunching when you open/close and doesn't really drop at all now. Looks like a whole Sunday will be devoted to this. I appreciate the DIY post though it doesn't look like a fun one.
Also watching/subscribing. I have noticed intermittently a bit of crunch as well as little travel on my driver's door. Great DIY writeup.
todd
99 coupe