34 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH*oil can image* - "Failed Indicator"
Leading reported evidence
Check oil
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Leading evidence: 'Check oil' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check connection, since it is not sealed' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Dealership replaced the sender. Happened once since then and it resolved itself within a few minutes while driving.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I just got in the car for a short drive, the scale actually reads 0 - 5 (as opposed to the 1 to 5 I posted earlier), doesn't matter the needle only drops to the midpoint every so often (rarely to the bottom), this time I ran the a/c, the notification didn't appear
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
You might also want to check the connection, since it is not sealed from the environment.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
If you change the sender yourself - clean the area around it first so that when you remove the old one or are just about to install the new part - nothing falls into the hole.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Is this the type of task within the realm of someone whose experience is limited to repairing/maintaining a '91 8v VW GTI but is at the same time mechanically inclined?
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
You *can* change the pressure sender from the engine bay by taking out the airbox but it's frustrating and takes more time anyway (ask me how I know this.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
34 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 1 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Was driving in the rain yesterday with the a/c on, heard a beep and saw a message "Failed Indicator" preceded by an oil dropper image.
I checked my oil, it was fine. Left the car parked for a little over an hour. Checked the oil level again, it was fine.
Drove back home sans a/c, the indicator didn't come back on. This morning, no a/c & no indicator, will test this out more with a/c
Anyone experience this?
'04 996 non-S, non-turbo
I just got in the car for a short drive, the scale actually reads 0 - 5 (as opposed to the 1 to 5 I posted earlier), doesn't matter the needle only drops to the midpoint every so often (rarely to the bottom), this time I ran the a/c, the notification didn't appear
I'll keep an eye on the oil
Happened to me while under warranty. Dealership replaced the sender. Happened once since then and it resolved itself within a few minutes while driving.
I asked the service center at the dealer. The part was $78 and they estimated the labor to be about an hour. On the one hand I was told the general rule of thumb was that if a job was under two hours you have a shot at doing it yourself but more than two hours and there's a lot of other pieces that need to be taken apart in order to get to the part in question but on the other hand was told that even though this was an hour or less job, there were certain things that needed to be sealed/put back together properly.
Is this the type of task within the realm of someone whose experience is limited to repairing/maintaining a '91 8v VW GTI but is at the same time mechanically inclined?
If so, is there anyplace I can find a procedure (pictures/diagrams are helpful) on how to perform this step by step along with the necessary tools?
If it's too long for this thread perhaps a recommendation on a Chilton's-type manual for an 04 996. I don't mind buying it since I plan on doing some repairs/maintenance on it myself, time/equipment/experience permitting
It takes longer to raise the car up & remove the right rear wheel than it does to change the sender. I recommend using the crow's foot & extensions method described in a thread posted by Dharn55. It involves accessing the unit from below (helps to have someone guiding the wrench on top). The other method involves grinding off part of an open-end wrench & working from above. I replaced mine using Dharn's method; literally took five minutes.
@996 cab: not sure now that you mention it.
normally the oil level gauge reads between the midpoint and the high point.
When the "Failed indicator" notice (preceded by a graphic of an oil can) pops up on the dash, the aforementioned oil level gauge drops down to the lowest point immediately.
After a second or so the "Failed indicator" notice disappears and the oil level needle jumps back up
I'm thinking this gauge is for oil pressure as well
The graphic at the bottom of that gauge (of the dripping oil dispenser) is the same graphic that precedes the "Failed indicator" notice. In other words, the message in the message bar reads "(dripping oil dispenser graphic) Failed Indicator"
When the message appears, the needle drops to 0. When the message goes away (after a second or so), the needle jumps back up to 5
Do we still think it's the oil pressure sender (and not the oil level sensor)?
PS the
http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm
manuals didn't download, kept getting an error when trying to load the page.
Yes that gauge is definitely oil pressure. Earlier in this post someone put a link to it on pelican parts. You might also want to check the connection, since it is not sealed from the environment. The pressure sensor is located on the top of the 4-6 cylinder head, ( right side of car)
Also As the last poster said this oil pressure sensor can also be called a oil sender in some places
If you change the sender yourself - clean the area around it first so that when you remove the old one or are just about to install the new part - nothing falls into the hole. Put some dielectric grease on the contacts before pushing the connections on. Also check those connections - many times the problem are the connections themselves. Replace with weather proof types - not the red/blue type meant for dry environments.
You *can* change the pressure sender from the engine bay by taking out the airbox but it's frustrating and takes more time anyway (ask me how I know this.
) - better to get to it from under the car.
If you *do* have an oil level sensor failure - this would be a pretty rare event as the part is known to be bullet proof compared to the pressure sender.
Go in from the top using...
Craftsman 10 pc. Wrench Set, Standard Crowfoot
5 min fix with this tool.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=1315578009090
If you want to get at the wires you can generally do so from the engine bay. Remove the air box. Then you can reach your hand in on the passenger side of the engine toward the rear of the engine (front of car). Good luck replacing those terminals with the motor in car without lowering the engine a bit.
To replace the entire sender with the engine in car, it's easiest to remove the bumper, passenger side heat shield and muffler. From there it is dead easy to get a stubby wrench up to where it sits atop the camshaft cover.
It simply screws into the cam cover on 4-6 cylinder head. New ones come with a new washer. There are two connections for wires for the instrument cluster. Almost as easy as installing a light bulb.
If you don't want to remove the bumper or heat shield, you can just remove the muffler. From there you can probably get to it using a crows foot on a long extension.
The oil pressure sender is in this picture, in the lower right hand side, the round cylindrical thing with two wires poking out the top.
The part came in. Olympus didn't have any crows foot sets and NAPA only had a set where the ends curve around and would have to be sawed off in order to slide in straight.
So I bought at 19mm wrench.
The only questions remaining now are:
Do I need to be cognizant of torque settings? The workshop manuals downloaded from the url in this thread do not address "oil pressure sender" at all.
Do I need to use thread sealant and if so, which kind?
I've driven some deep rains and found letting things dry out helps extrememly. A toyota I had loved to conk out the a/c going though 6-12" water. I'd reset till dry and see what happens. Cars and the fancy sensors don't go good with shorts and sensors with water in them.
I hand tightened mine until it was good and snug. At that point it was oriented exactly the same as the old one (meaning the wires were in the correct positions). I didn't want to risk another complete 360 turn as it would have certainly damaged the threads.
I believe the threads might be pre-sealed, and if they aren't the new crush washer that is on there should do the trick. No leaks on mine...
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
