14 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHQuestion about stutter on start up
Leading reported evidence
Clean maf and throttle body
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Clean maf and throttle body' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean icv too' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I recently replaced the battery, but it has done this before and after the new battery.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I'll be getting my oil changed soon, but I can't see a connection.
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Suggestion
I didn't pull the TB off but guess I might now to clean ICV too.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Ya on friday I hope to scan it clean the TB and MAF and see what I find.
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14 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T022239Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
So I have this little stuttering problem on start up with my p-car. I find it gets worse the closer it gets to oil change time. Basically I turn on my car, it turns over and starts fine, revs go up to 11-1200 where high idol normally is and voltage is at 14, then drops to 500 for a second before jumping back up to its position in high idol. Voltage also drops to about 7. it does this drop about 2 or 3 times in succession over about 30 seconds before resuming its high idle until it warms up and settles into its low idle at 7-800rpm.
It has done this since I bought the car over 2 years ago, it gets better immediately after an oil change and progressively gets worse until the next oil change. I recently replaced the battery, but it has done this before and after the new battery. Cold also seems to affect it.
Initially I thought it may be an issue with the charging system since the voltage drops at the same time. or a small vacuum leak, but to me this doesnt make sense since it only happens for about 30 seconds before the car goes back to running normally. I am thinking I will throw the scanner on it Friday when I head into the shop to see if it is throwing any soft codes, but was hoping maybe someone here could provide some insight to this problem if the scanner turns up nothing.
Thanks
JT
Jt, I'm curious at to what you find out. My car just started doing almost the same thing. I know its close to plug changing time and I have them sitting in my garage to do. I've cleaned the maf and throttle body already. I didn't pull the TB off but guess I might now to clean ICV too. Got more reading to do.
Ya on friday I hope to scan it clean the TB and MAF and see what I find. I am not sure though if cleaning the TB and MAF will do anything though because of the improvements I see after an oil change.
I will also take a quick video of it and post it tonight
you can rule plugs out! I know this for a fact that it's not causing it as I have changed mine out. I have something very similar but it's very mild. I would like to know what it is also.
Mine has always done that (from brand new). I just assumed it was some part of the start up routine of the engine management system. I just don't drive until it's finished hunting for idle.
Mine does that but it only drops once and then settles in and it only does it when it's been sitting for a couple of days. I'm not throwing any codes and it still runs like a scalded dog.
I think it might have something to do with the high pressure fuel system. My 335 would do the same thing after it had sat for a few days.
Well i'll rule out it being plugs. I don't drive mine everyday either but that first start of a day it acts up. I don't have an ICV, it is the E-gas version. I'll try to get a vid of mine and post it too. We can compare. Think I might go ahead and put a new regeneration valve in and see if that does it. I wonder if after driving and then sitting even over night has an effect on fuel vapor pressures to the TB? I don't know but if any experts can chime in please do so.
This definitely isn't normal, but I also daily drive my car. I guess cleaning the throttle body, especially at the pivot and sealing points of the butterfly would be a cheap thing to take care of. Maybe it's a throttle position sensor malfunctioning/in need calibration?
Mine has always done this in cool weather. I didn't notice it much over the summer but it has been particularly bad the last few starts (i drive the car only about twice a week). I'll be getting my oil changed soon, but I can't see a connection.
I would assume its some electronic control over the fuel injectors causing some problem relative to the temp sensors. To what degree these parts can interfere with each other, i haven't a clue.
Similarly, the car has a tendancy to stall during the first 30-60 seconds after a cold start. I know that this is a common occurance with the 996. Somebody gave a good explanation a few months ago.
ok, finally got this short vid from the other day uploaded. It's from early morning, first engine start of the day to head out for work.
http://youtu.be/BP4TkSZBO0A
I have a new regeneration valve on the way from PelicanParts, will post results after install.
mine is pretty similar except it jumps a little more quickly. I scanned it wih my snap-on solus pro, and launch scanner, got no real info, cleaned maf and TB made no difference. Will keep on trying other things
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