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YOUR RESEARCHGT3 control arms and shims
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Run 11mm shim pack per side
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At the camber level I am running today, I am running an 11mm shim pack per side.
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Suggestion
I would love to be able to adjust between say, 2 degrees camber for R DOT compound tires on track days and say .8 degrees camber in the front for driving with street tires in between track days....being able to get optimal wear out of each setup.
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I'm running an aggressive street/track setup right now with 2 degrees, six minutes of negative camber.
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I am running GT3 control arms on my car with a ROW M030 suspension and -2.2 camber in front.
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At the camber level I am running today, I am running an 11mm shim pack per side.
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Adjust between say, 2 degrees camber
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Suggestion
I would love to be able to adjust between say, 2 degrees camber for R DOT compound tires on track days and say .8 degrees camber in the front for driving with street tires in between track days....being able to get optimal wear out of each setup.
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Folks, I've got an annoying squeeking from the front suspension which I believe I've isolated to the control arm bushing. The GT3 control arms are running about the same cost as the fixed parts so I'm considering replacing my stock units with the GT3 arms. My understanding is that by varying the number/thickness of shims in the control arm I can adjust the camber. My goal is to achieve the stock alignment value for camber. I'm not doing this swap to get tons of negative camber (at least right now). Does someone know approximately what thickness of shims I need to get to the stock value?
Thanks,
Shawn
I think you may need some, maybe none. I don't know what the length is compared to the stock arms. I doubt they wanted anyone to have positive camber, though. It also depends on other factors such as ride height and manufacturing tolerances. Remember, even with the shims, you still have the adjustment at the top.
My friend has them on his car...but he added them for the benfit of adding shims to get more negative camber. The arms don't come with any shims you have to order them separately....just as the GT3's come from the dealer with no shims in stock configuration
What I can't tell you is if they're exactly the same length as the stock 996 arm. You won't get adjustability in both directions, just more negative camber and not less. But our cars barely have any negative camber at all to begin with so even if it adds a touch it's only going to make the car handle better anyhow.
Andy
Andy,
What car does your friend have the GT3 control arms on? I have a C4S and wonder if the GT3 control arms wll work. Thinking about to change the shock mount to Monoball to increase negative camber. Would like find out if GT3 control arm is a better option? thx
Mike
Hi guys!
I`ve just bought a 996 Carrera 2 (MY00) with row m030. I need more negative camber for track use. I guess my goal is to achieve from about -2,0 to -2,5 degrees in front. I`ve allready bought GT3 control arms but I don`t have any shims yet. Most likely I`m upgrading m030 to Manthey Racing`s KW Variant 3 and lowering maybe 20mm more from row030. I was wondering how many and how thick shims I need?
Thanks!
If you put the GT3 control arms on and measure camber you'll have a good starting point and know roughly how many shims to buy. They are pretty expensive for what you get. One MM of shim should add about 4 minutes 30 seconds of camber. Shims come in a bunch of sizes from 1 mm up to 10 mm if I remember correctly. You'll still have the eccentrics (sp?) and the slots at the top of the strut (front only) to adjust so you might not need any.
I was under the impression that the stock control arms on a C2 allowed some degree of camber adjustment, just not very much. If that's true, then "stock camber" would be no shims at all.
Note, if you have a C4 or C4S, the above is NOT true, because the AWD linkages prevent freedom of movement in the stock control arms altogether. The only way to get camber adjustments in these cars is to add the GT3 control arms.
I have the GT3 control arms on my C4 for this reason (love them). I'm running an aggressive street/track setup right now with 2 degrees, six minutes of negative camber. I think it took 3 shims (one 3mm, one 2mm, one 1mm), but that doesn't sync with JimB's formula. The only think I can think of is that the formula changes based on ride height? Also, adjustments were needed to the castor since moving the bottom of the wheel out made it longitudinally further away from the diagonal AWD linkages coming from the other side of the frame.
I would love to be able to adjust between say, 2 degrees camber for R DOT compound tires on track days and say .8 degrees camber in the front for driving with street tires in between track days....being able to get optimal wear out of each setup.
Would this be as simple as adding the shim to get 2 degrees when I get to the track before putting track tires on and removing the shim again when I put my street tires back on, or are there other things that need to be changed? If so, what else is varying that can be adjusted?
Thanks!
No shims for stock set up. Call Larry @ TRG. the shims are use to get track set up. Your tires will be touching the road on the inside tread and you will go through your tires in <8,000 miles. Where do you live? There are a lot of great shops that will provide the right advice.
you could do this but your toe would be off. if you set your alignment/camber with the shims then remove them you will get toe out. exaggerated toe will wear down your insides more than camber will.
I am running GT3 control arms on my car with a ROW M030 suspension and -2.2 camber in front. I can answer all your questions. First, when you look at the cost of GT3 control arms over standard arms; you need to include the cost of the shims. The thicker the shim, the more expensive they are. They get progressively more expensive with thickness. For example, 2 3mm shims cost a lot less than 1 7mm shim. If you have auto-leveling headlights (bi-xenons), you also need a special 1mm shim for the driver's side. This particular shim costs $100-130 (depending on your source). It looks fairly crude as it is just bent metal with a couple welds, but you will pay a premium if you want to retain auto-leveling headlights. Expect a complete set of GT3 controls (inner, outer, nuts and shims) to run about $1K when you are done.
To be at -1.6 camber, you will need about a 7mm shimpack per side. At the camber level I am running today, I am running an 11mm shim pack per side. With this large of a shim pack, my front track has increase 2". If you intend to run over a 5mm shim pack, you need to run the control arms RS style where the left arm is used on the right side and the right arm is used on the left side. The track arms need to be attached to the offset holes on the control arms, otherwise you will experience significant rubbing and your caster will be out of spec. I still get some rubbing with my race wheels and tires on the fender liners near lock. My caster is at 7 degree 45 min with the control arms run RS style.
You also may find a challenge finding all the parts. When I bought mine, no dealer had a complete set. I got 1 inner and outer from 1 dealer, the other inner from a second dealer, the other outer from a third dealer and the special shim for the auto-leveling headlights from a 4th dealer. 1mm shims are easy to find, but you may need to check around to find enough 3mm or 7mm shims. You can't add or remove shims without re-aligning the car. With a 10mm shim pack, you have to turn out each tie rod end about 5 turns to have the wheels directed close to straight.
Ok guys, I got my gt3 control arms in today and I am going to install them this weekend. Any problems or things I should be aware of for this process? And possibly some torque specs?
It was pretty straightforward once I had all the right parts (control arms, 1mm shim, and auto-leveling shim). Just make sure you have the right size sockets/wrenches as well as as the ball joint removal tool and you're good to go. It was a little tough to work in the arear around the ball joint, but not that big of a deal. Just go slow.
I put GT3 Lower Control arms on my car and have the old ones if you are interested. They come from a 2001 996 with 57000 miles and appear to be in excellent shape. I went to GT3 control arms to get negative 3.5 camber for my track car.
I wish I had asked here before I bought them. My alignment guy says I need about 13mm of shims to achieve the camber I want, and he has aligned many 996's and caymans with these control arms. I guess my next question is. With that many mm in shims, which one goes on what side. Should the offset hole be towards the fron tor the back. And do I use the middle hole or the offset hole?
Bella, I've already replaced mine, but thanks anyway.
JC3D, I have no idea what you'll get with 13mm of shims. Is that 13mm for each side? Stock is 1mm on each side. You should use the center hole and the offset hole goes towards the rear.
Since the nearest napa is at least 45 minutes away during the time of day i would be driving there, I'm picking one up from kragen tonight for 25.99. Thanks guys.
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