93 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSpring Detailing: First time wielding a clay bar....
Leading reported evidence
Repair scrape and am now waiting
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Anyway, I repaired the scrape and am now waiting for a replacement splitter to arrive.
Spring Detailing: First time wielding a clay bar....
Read full discussion summary
Leading evidence: 'Repair scrape and am now waiting' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean water and towel dry' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I just use soap and water on the wheels - no shine on the rims themselves (although I am looking for recommendations on good products to use) and I use Armorall Tire Shine on the tires.
Spring Detailing: First time wielding a clay bar....
Use 3m sealant
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I've used the 3M sealant, but it still requires buffing, and lasts a full season.
Spring Detailing: First time wielding a clay bar....
Use armorall tire shine
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I just use soap and water on the wheels - no shine on the rims themselves (although I am looking for recommendations on good products to use) and I use Armorall Tire Shine on the tires.
Spring Detailing: First time wielding a clay bar....
Use clay
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use clay from Blue Magic, or Mothers - use lots of lube as you mentioned
Spring Detailing: First time wielding a clay bar....
Run bar over the surface
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
To be honest, as this is the first time that I've done it, who knows if I did it correctly, but I basically ran the bar over the surface with light pressure and lots of lubricant and grime came off easily.
Spring Detailing: First time wielding a clay bar....
Use ) and i
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I just use soap and water on the wheels - no shine on the rims themselves (although I am looking for recommendations on good products to use) and I use Armorall Tire Shine on the tires.
Spring Detailing: First time wielding a clay bar....
Coverage and how to read this overview
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
93 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 1 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T052503Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Well, today was the day to scrub all the winter grime off the car and make it shine - I set my mind to go all out earlier in the week.
The nice weather convinced me to finally try the Mcguires clay bar kit that I've had sitting under my bench for the last year.
... the car was washed, clay barred while wet, hand dried, one coat of Mother's Glaze/sealer applied by hand and removed by a random orbital buffer. The wax coat was Mother's Carnuba wax - applied by hand, removed, buffed, and polished using the buffer. I then finished with a hand buff with a microfiber cloth. Stainless was polished using Mother's Billet metal polish.
I'm really impressed with the results. The car is in pretty good shape anyway, as I'm a freak for keeping the paintwork in good shape, but I'm really impressed with the results. The clay bar treatment really did a nice job of taking off the surface haze and the glaze coat really helped take out the minor swirls.
Total time, start to finish, approx 5 hours.
It's worth it just to see the mirror finish on the doors.
Now if only it wasn't so damned cold when I started this morning... ice was forming on the paintwork while I was doing the clay bar treatment - it was brutal. I kept having to come inside to warm up my hands and the clay.
Now the car looks as good as Phil's car, but the difference is that I drive my car.
Thanks!
Well, not today - I'd hate to ruin such a nice wax job, but I'll take it out and give it a good run tomorrow.
The other reason not to take it out was that I had to do some touch-up on a scrape under the front bumper - I managed to break the splitter under the bumper last weekend while exiting a gas station - I broke the splitter, scraped some paint on the underside of the bumper and mildly cracked the clearcoat... you can imagine how happy I was. Anyway, I repaired the scrape and am now waiting for a replacement splitter to arrive. Teach me to be more careful when exiting the gas station.
yo well the best piece of advice any friend can give u at this juncture in your life is this:
get rid of them ugly **** plastic eyemakeup plastic eyelid whatever you got tacked on them headlights.
You know, I have Ben on ignore, so that I didn't have to see his predictable insults.
I bought the car with them already installed and I kinda like them, so to be honest, that's all that matters.
I had been resisting for a while - in fact I'd figured that I'd never get around to using the kit that I bought, but considering the good reviews I'd read in the past from others that have done this I figured I'd give it a shot.
To me the greatest hurdle was the amount of time I figured it would take. In reality it took no longer than using a chemical cleaner. The impressive thing was how well it removed grime that you couldn't even see.
I've got to admit that it did a good job. I don't see doing it more than once a year, but it's certainly worth doing.
To be honest, as this is the first time that I've done it, who knows if I did it correctly, but I basically ran the bar over the surface with light pressure and lots of lubricant and grime came off easily. In cases where there was a stubborn mark I applied more pressure, but mostly it was just a case of lightly rubbing across the surface like you would to apply wax.
One thing - the instructions say to do it in shade.
Heat, sun and not enough lubricant are enough to actually bubble the paint (according to the person that recommended this to me).
- that's one of the reasons I started early this morning, even though it was cold, to be sure that I could get the clay bar work done before I lost the shade in front of the house.
One other thing I also did was to rinse each section of the car with water after I'd used the clay bar.
Good luck - I look forward to seeing your photos.
Great tips and will follow them. Thanks for sharing.
I just got done polishing/waxing last week so I don't feel like starting all over again. But in a month or two I will be ready.
Currently I am waiting for my SpeedArt mufflers to arrive
(next week sometime).
Will see how that goes...
Cool!
So will you be posting a sound clip when they're installed?
I can understand how you feel about now waxing again... I'm not ready to go through today's routine more than once a year... in fact the car looks so good that I don't even want to get it dirty.
Once you clay a car and put a good coat of wax on it, you will only need to do certain sections (front and areas behind wheels) on a regular basis. Claying really gets off the bug juice. As to not wanting to get it dirty ...
I swapped out the winter wheels today and took it for a long spin. I love the cold weather and sunshine. More of the same tomorrow, then rain on Monday...
Stefan
Lol..that's how it all starts
Will do a sound clip when completed and have my son post it, as soon as he gets the mufflers done. I will bark out instructions and hand him tools, if I have to.
You can reuse the clay as long as you haven't dropped it in the ground. If that happens, throw it away immediately or you'll be using sandpaper on the car.
As you are claying the car, you should be folding the clay in on itself as it becomes dirty. I also use a bit of the lubricant to clean it off as I'm going.
I use very little pressure and lots of lube. (Yeah, yeah, I'm still talking about the car.) Basically you want the clay to just glide over the car. Initially you might get a little resistance and may even hear a gritty sound. But as the clay pulls the contaminants out of the paint it should start to feel very slippery. A clay bar is not a polishing step and should not take the place of such. Its purpose is to pull contaminates out of the paint that is not possible otherwise. Actually, FK1 has a chemical system they claim is better than clay, but I don't have any experience with it.
Yeah, I know, I can't win... I like the car to look nice, then I want to keep it that way and hate to drive it... I should just bite the bullet and drive it though a big puddle.
I'll probably take it out to the local PCA section breakfast tomorrow. Stefan, are you going to the RTR breakfast?
I will if I can get my wife out of bed in time. She's currently complaining about me wanting to get there early enough to check out and photograph the other cars.
...the plan is to drag her and my 2 year old with me. I'm currently negotiating a departure time.
I have no clue, I've not been to this place before. I'm sure they'll have something for kids.
We usually have the problem that the portions are huge and too big for a 2 year old.
Ahh, that makes sense. I'm a big oatmeal fan also... eat it every day.. unless we go out, then I'm an omelet fan.
My wife seems to think that every breakfast place has oatmeal.
Should be a decent turnout, considering that it's early in the driving season and the weather will be good... everyone will be looking for an excuse to get the car out and play.
It's settled then, I'll see you there. Wife and daughter have other plans, maybe next time for them. Have you signed up for snidely on the rtr website. I did it last year and it is an absolute blast. Check it out.
Stefan
Yup, looks like I'll be there with or without my wife.
No, I've not signed up for snidely... it's that paintwork thing again. I'm truly a basketcase.
... I should probably do it considering that I know that I'll never do any other track event.
i did my boxster a couple of weeks ago. The Meguire's kit that I bought had 2 clay bars, and a bottle of "quick wipe" and a cheapy wax. I finished the bottle of quick wipe in the one session.
I did it slightly different from Wayne. I washed and dried the car.
Then section by section, sprayed lube on the clay bar, sprayed the car section, and did the clay bar - as mentioned before, do not put any pressure. If the bar sticks, spray some more lube. I started with very small sections, and as I got comfortable, made the sections slightly bigger.
Once I was done claying a section, I used a towel to wipe the car (pick up the liquid), and another to dry it. After the whole car was done, I polished the hood and the trunk (or, I guess, both trunks
), and waxed the whole car.
I had heard/read somewhere that you should use the polish/clay bars at temperatures over 65 degrees. Obviously Wayne had a good experience even at lower temperatures.
The shine seemed to go to a different level. Just feeling the finish was unbelievable - it was really, really smooth (as advertised)
Unfortunately, didn't take any pictures of the process or the result
Here's a link to a video I watched before doing my car (I can't figure out how to embed it).
http://youtube.com/watch?v=yfEfLGL59GI
Yes, there's a spray bottle full of lube in the kit. Looks like Akif and I had the same kit.
Tim! Where have you been?!?! I figured that the new job was taking up your time, but you were certainly missed.
It would have been better to do the clay bar work at a higher temperature, as it makes the clay easier to manipulate and you'll get better contact with the car.
To be honest, it was a pain doing it at the lower temperatures.
Just woke up! Wayne, I think your car looks great, especially w/ the Sport Designs! Worth the 5 hours of detailing. I've had my car out for the past few days and, believe it or not,
am driving it!
Just had my inspection done last week, and yesterday learned the proper technique for clay barring the car. I'll be doing the car within the next couple of weeks - clay bar and Zaino Z5 should be all I need. Car looks incredible and runs even better. I'll be out on the PA Fling on April 19th!! Can't wait.
And Tim, how the hell are you?? Thought you were off the board. Great to hear from you! Hope all is going well with the new position in Dallas!
Yes, just as Blackness describes below. Store the clay in a tight container and mist some of the lube on it as well.
+1, it will be easier at warmer temps, but out of the sun.
I use the
www.griotsgarage.com
products (clay, speed shine lube, polish, and wax) with excellent results. Also use microfiber towels (from Costco) to wipe/dry the area after it's clayed to insure the smoothest surface. Griots used to have a free downloadable file on car detailing, but I can't seem to find it on their reconfigured website. I have a copy, PM me with your email adress if you are interested.
Phil, there you are! Stefan and I missed you this morning. You missed out on a good breakfast with 57 other porsche enthusiasts... a good bunch of cars showed up. Sadly it was too cold to get photos.... gotta get some warmer weather.
Where have you been hiding?
Sorry I missed it, too! Not hiding - just incredibly busy. I thought the change of season would bring a reduction in sick kids to the office, but no such luck. It's been crazy. Been driving the Porsche and waiting for the TT to get built and delivered. Should be a fun summer.
I just use soap and water on the wheels - no shine on the rims themselves (although I am looking for recommendations on good products to use) and I use Armorall Tire Shine on the tires.
Yeah, work is crazy but the real issue has been that my internet connection has been dropping and reinitializing almost constantly so it has been like using dial-up at about 25% of dial up speed. Very frustrating!
I was able to get a service tech out to the apartment yesterday and he sais I was connected via a splitter from a splitter, so the signal was weak. The connection has improved dramatically since then. So I can actually enjoy the internet again.
Well, I'm glad we have you back. It's hard to cause trouble when two of the three musketeers is absent... you and Phil have been AWOL over the last couple of weeks.
Hey, what can I say, your recent thread inspired me.
yeah, today has been spent prepping for another baby induced decorating job... time to reshuffle the rooms to make way for another one. I might be losing my dedicated home office as a result.
The car looks great. I think clay really brings out a better shine. I also clayed the car in colder weather and it was a royal pain. But, I'm still enjoying the look - it really shows up on a straight black paint job.
I'd also like to hear if anyone has a recommendation for a polish that works best on the rims. I was going to use my Zymol or some Maguires, but I'm guessing that the combination of the intense heat and disc brake dust necessitates a little more protection.
Bob
Looks great!
Next time - suggest instead of using the short life glaze, polish the car then apply a sealant.
The polish will get you an even better swirl free finish, and the sealant will top off the great paint with a super hard shine that lasts months.
Two coats of sealant is even better, lasts 6 months of daily use and weekly washes.
I wouldn't use anything else these days - modern technology has really made it easy to get and keep a great finish.
They're great looking cars. Thanks for the tips - I'd love to get a shine like that.
so help me understand a little better....
I used this
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016...6920961&sr=1-6
followed by this
http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolsea.html
and this
http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolcar.html
Are you saying apply more of the sealer and glaze after the wax step?
You can use a basic 3 step process after washing -
1) Clay - you got this one down already
2) Polish - with a buffer or by hand - a polish allows you to remove defects from the paint, such as swirls and scratches
3) Last Step Product (LSP) - I recommend a modern sealant instead of any 'wax' products - they last much longer, and give excellent results.
You don't need any more than that - throw the wax away or give it to someone who still uses it.
I use clay from Blue Magic, or Mothers - use lots of lube as you mentioned
Then use a polish, and a buffer if you want to do this with minimal physical effort - I use the Porter Cable buffer and some foam pads from Autopia.com.
I use a one step polish that does a great job of improving the look of the paint, removing scratches and swirls, enhancing the color and gloss - modern polishes often have a progressive polish abrasive built in, one that starts 'course' then breaks down as you work it into a finer and finer polish, giving you a single step to a great finish.
My choice is Ultima Paint Prep Plus - it's easy to use and gives a great paint finish that's ready for the last step product.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ult-4012-120.html
After polishing, the paint is free of defects and ready for the sealant LSP - This will form a very very thin but tough layer that protects the paint, gives it great shine, and great depth.
You can simply apply and walk away, no need for buffing to a shine with the right products - this saves time and effort, and gets you a great result.
I use - Ultima Paint Guard Plus
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ult-1012-100.html
You spray it on a micro-fiber pad, and simply wipe over the polished car - takes 10 mins and uses almost no product - leave to cure and you're done. Very deep shine, very slick to the touch - easy to keep clean and looking great each week with just a wash.
Here's a QuickTime video I shot of the application on my 986 - it really was as easy as it looked!
http://www.dodkin.com/iMovies/Ultima-PGP.mov
And here's the same sealant finish showing it's excellent water beading qualities on my VW Passat.
http://www.dodkin.com/iMovies/Ultima-water-1.mov
Amazing what you can do in iMovie - and no, I don't work for Ultima!
Nice!
Pretty cool - I liked the videos. Thanks for the product recommendations. It's always good to hear of (and see) good results with a product I've not seen before - especially considering that you got such great results with a lot less effort than I put in yesterday.
Thanks.
It's nice to hear everyone's little tricks for getting a job done - each time we have a conversation like this we tend to learn a little bit more.
I really love the finish I got on the car yesterday, but I would have loved to have done it in less time. As usual, cdodkin came through and provided some good tips.
I'll get hold of the products that he recommended and give them a shot next time.
...now we just have to get a product recommendation for keeping our rims in good condition (note I said that without referring to rim jobs
)
So for a really good rim job......
I use the same sealant that I use on the car paint
Wash the wheels - clay them as well - then dry and put on the Ultima.
Keeps them easy to clean and shiny as hell!
Clay is awesome at getting rid of some of the hard to shift brake dust - just break off a piece and only use it on wheels - don't use it on the car paint afterwards!!!!
OK, that's it! I'm doing mine this w/e! Mine has minimal swirls. I was going to clay bar the car, and put a couple of coats of Zaino Z5 on. Is there an intermediate step I should use (some sort of glaze??) or is that really unnecessary since the finish is in such good shape? I know this probably belongs on the concours/detailing board, but with this thread and all the pics making me salivate, I figured this was the best place to ask.
Phil, the finish is all about the prep work - If you don't need clay, I would absolutely do the polish step to really get your paint ready for the sealant.
It's the polish that gets the depth of color and shine out of the paint, and the sealant adds the final gloss and protection.
I've done a lot of finish work on cars. with clay and various polishes & waxes, and dodkin is 100% correct, the prep is everything. A few tricks that I didn't see mentioned that save a LOT of time and effort and yield better results:
Always clay before using any power polisher (I also use the PC ROP) on the car: clay, as stated pulls up hard contaminates that if broken off by thte polisher pad, WILL scratch and swirl your paint. Claying is easy, and any automotive clay is as good as the other..Mothers is regularly on sale at Walmart. Buy it when you see it, it doesn't go bad. It doesn't last forever. I'll use it 3 times max on my nice cars, and another time or 2 on my lesser cars or trucks. No real need to use the spray lube if your car is wet, just if it doesn't slide easily. Rinse with clean water and towel dry. Microfiber is best.
Before you go to power polish, get a roll of blue painters masking tape and mask off all the rubber and plastic edges, windows, headlights, wipers. No need to spend extra time getting the "white" of the black rubber. It's amazingly fast to tape and you'll laugh at how fast you can fly with the buffer. Unfortunately on the coupes, the raingutter rubber is so thin, you'll have to clean the edges manually, or tape and do the center section separately
Dodkins Polish recommendation is excellent. I also like the 3M Perfect-it line (black bottles). Their Dark Car polish is excellent. I spend more time with the ROP than doing anything else. Always move front to back to front, never side to side or up and down, unless you are working on a bad scratch with a small pad, If your paint is in excellent shape, then a fine foam pad is all you need. More swirls requires a coarser pad, then a finer one. The Autopia site is very good.
Honestly, I've never used the LSP sealant, but I'm going to definitly try it now! I've used the 3M sealant, but it still requires buffing, and lasts a full season. How long have you used the LSP? The 3M in 2 weeks of dirty car, does the same thing, but not that good of sheeting action, which is really excellent for preventing waterspotting! I'm impressed.
Lots of excellent points here.
The Ultima sealant came out last summer, so I've had in place since then - so far it's been superb - even on the 986 which is a daily driver
Car's paint has never looked so good for so long!
Hey Wayne - Congrats on the pending baby - good luck!
Car is looking good! And, white is the NEW silver, so you have that going for you.
You should really search the concours forum - they go over stuff like this every week! A great source for the latest polish or other detailing product. And they know their stuff as far as what pad/towel/etc to use.
Well, so far it's been on since July, and it still looks great.
I did 2 coats on the 986, which is a daily driver - and a single coat on the 996, which is a weekend driver.
So that's 8-9 months!
Will probably do again soon to get ready for summer - I'd like to get them polished and coated before it gets too hot here in SoCal.
So, in order for me to use the Ultima products do I have to clay bar over again and start all over, or can I apply the seal coat on top of what I already have when I next wash?
I'd go straight to the Ultima polish after a wash, and then to the sealant - no need to clay again so soon, unless you have hard to move bug guts or tree sap or something on the paint.
I used Finessit-II last year on the car prior to the Zaino Z2 - then Z5 Pro. The depth of the finish is really good, and feels very smooth to the touch. I've never clayed the car before - I'm wondering if I need either clay or polish - or just go right to the sealer (ie. Z5)? What's your take?
Play it safe - wash, clay, polish, last step product.
then you're getting maximum results from your products and best prepped paint
Using clay is easy - just use lots of clay lube and don't drop it on the ground!
If you do - throw that piece away and start a new piece.
No need to use the whole bar at a time - just break of a piece that will flatten out to a very thin, 2" x 2" patch.
Use the finger tips, and you'll feel it catching on surface contaminants, then going smooth as you clay.
Shade is critical - no hot car surfaces.
Good write-up here:
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-clay.html
I read really good information on the proper steps in here:
www.autopia.org
It takes about 20 minutes of reading on the 4 books on top of the page.
After reading I bought the PC7424, all materials, and got to detailing my 996- nice to
see the results
John
It's a mix of detergent and water, which is slippery and reduces surface tension. You can mix it yourself or buy prepared products such as "Speed Shine" from Griots. There are a number of such products out there. I'm new to this too, but going to do it when the weather warms here in PA.
Rationalization: Warmer temps make the clay softer and thus less chance for surface damage.
Real reason: Since I'm getting up in years, I need warmer weather to work on my car.
Dawn dish soap works very well. It is the best wax stripper and provides the slippery media that you need to make the clay work best. 1 tablespoon / quart water
Steve,
Dawn is a little severe for your Porsche - it can dry out rubber seals.
Better to use normal car shampoo, clay and polish to remove old wax, and clay lube or dilute car shampoo and water for claying.
Sorry if i was not clear - the dawn / water mix is for the clay lube - not general washing. Clay lube designed for the purpose is always better. I can see your point - detergent has a stronger effect than soap on rubber. Since claying is a once a year job, at best, detergent can still have a detrimental effect. Fair point!
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
